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No Brake Lights, no Hazards

CarFreak146

Well-Known Member
Joined
February 3, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Shawnee, Kansas
Year, Model & Trim Level
'94 Explorer XLT
I've checked the fuses and everything, what else could it possibly be?
please help. I need brake lights.

--Ryan
 



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neither
 












cig lighter = no
Radio = yes
 






If the cig lighter worked previously, and now doesn't, it is a fuse. Did you check the fuses in the pd block under the hood?

*I was guessing on the radio, I was looking at a '95 diagram
 






well, what fuse in the Distro. box do I needa check?
 






MAybe I should just replace every fuse in the box and see if that works.....

if anybody has anymore Ideas please let me know, I've got a big wheelin event this weekend and needa get it fixed before then

--Ryan (thanks)
 






I don't have access to a 1st gen manual right now, so I can't tell you exactly what fuse it is.

If you have a voltmeter (or testlight), just test each side of each fuse. That fuse is going to be constant 12V, so just look for a fuse that has 12v on one side, and nothing on the other.
 






I think I have realized that it may be thre brake siwtch on the pedal, even though I have no clue why that would go bad b/c of the spark, but I'll check it. how do I tell if its bad, and exactly where on the pedal is it?

I'll also check the fuse with a voltmeter.

--Ryan
 






Bad Brake Switch?

CarFreak146 said:
I think I have realized that it may be thre brake siwtch on the pedal, even though I have no clue why that would go bad b/c of the spark, but I'll check it. how do I tell if its bad, and exactly where on the pedal is it?

I'll also check the fuse with a voltmeter.

--Ryan

I had a couple of brake light switches go :frustrate. Fortunately, they are cheap and easy to replace.

It is located behind the pedal, held in place with a pin (if I recall). Look for the wiring harness behind the brake pedal, and it will be obvious. I think they are $10 or $15 at a dealer.
 






alright, thanks man, is there anyway to tell if its bad besides just replacing it?
 






yea. it should be a closed switch, ie when you're not pressing it, the circuit is complete (correct me if I'm wrong, 1st gen guys). take the switch out, don't press it in, and measure the resistance between the two leads on the switch. if there's a small amount of resistance (generally ford brake switches are less than 5 ohms), then the switch is good.

if the switch is ok, then test the voltage between the two leads on the connector. if it's ~12V, you're good. if not, it could be anything from a fray somewhere in the line to a blown fuse.
 






Never heard of a normally closed brake switch...............

The BOO (brake on/off) switch should be a normally open switch mounted directly on the brake pedal arm. Easy to test, you should have 12V on one side of the switch at all times, and 12V on the other side when the switch is depressed. Or you could test it with the plug/wires disconnected from the switch by testing to see that it is open normally, and closed when depressed with a continuity tester.

I still don't see the connection between your BOO switch and your hazard lights not working though. My money is still on a fuse.
 






I know my csvt used a closed switch, and I'm surprised the explorer doesn't. By closed I mean something that when depressed breaks the circuit and when released completes it. In the csvt (and all contours/cougars, for that matter), the switch is mounted on a bracket. a piece of metal on the pedal pushes it in, and it is pushed in all the time when the pedal is up. when the pedal goes down, it releases the button and completes the circuit. that way, the switch doesn't have to go all the way down with the pedal. hope this clears up what I was trying to explain.
 






I'm not worried about my hazard lights, my brake lights are the main concern right now, I will try and get ahold of a volt meter and test this, thanks guys.
 






Ummm did you change the flasher?
 






Positive Vibes said:
Ummm did you change the flasher?

I assume that you are talking about for the Hazards. I did change it, but I changed it from what I currently have (a Super Heavy Duty one; For my front LED bulbs, to a factory oune outta my 89 F-150, so I couldn't tell b/c the load for the LEDs is different

--Ryan
 



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CarFreak146 said:
I assume that you are talking about for the Hazards. I did change it, but I changed it from what I currently have (a Super Heavy Duty one; For my front LED bulbs, to a factory oune outta my 89 F-150, so I couldn't tell b/c the load for the LEDs is different

--Ryan

Yes for the hazards. You sure those two are compatable?? I too had to add a heavy duty one for towing. Funny think is I am having this exact same problem but on my Samurai. On the sammy people keep leaning towards a ground wire not connected. Have you done any work or stuff to her before this problem started???
 






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