No Crank

[imp]

@imp I've got the transceiver and pcm in hand. I still need to patch up the door wires, but I'm ready to get started.

I watched some (poor quality) videos about pats transceiver R/R on other fords, and looked for videos on steering column disassembly for the 3rd gen, but I came up empty.

If you have any tips on pulling the steering trim off, and gaining access to the transceiver, I'd be very grateful. Seems straightforward, but I've never had the column apart so I don't know what I don't know.

Edit: also, am I correct to assume that the new transceiver will necessitate reprogramming for my keys?

@MyExplorer03v8Lim

Two screws from below in the lower shroud hold it in place. Along it's edges are hidden plastic tabs which click together and align it with the upper shroud. Prying downward on the shroud with a wide screwdriver will enable it to be dropped down and set aside. I found removing the upper shroud helped greatly. It simply slips upwards and off to the left side to clear the turn signal switch. I tore the rubber grommet surrounding the lock cylinder and shift lever, while slipping it upwards on the lever and turned upwards, facing out of the way. You will then see the transceiver surrounding the lock cylinder. Below is a plastic trough containing many wires. It has a screw or two holding it in place which need to be removed, one is on the left side of the column if I remember right. The single transceiver screw is hidden by the trough; I pried it aside to gain access to the transceiver screw with a nut driver. You will find a few Phillips screws, maybe, and the rest are metric best accessed by nutdriver. One seemed to fit no socket, found it to be 7/32" size, an unusual size, but I have them all. If you have a tilt steering wheel, I found it helps to tilt full down removing lower, up for some other opoerations.

Before removing the old transceiver, I would unplug its wires, the little plug looks very delicate, looks like it has a locking tab on one side. The wires are very thin and frail. Plug in to your replacement transceiver, tape your known good key across the face of it, with black plastic part covering the big round hole in it. At this point, if you have not disconnected your battery, putting any key toothed to work the lock and turning to ON, the red indicator light will illuminate solid ON for about 5 seconds, then turn off. The engine should start. If the light blinks fast, the trouble lies elsewhere. Below is transceiver remove/replace from Ford Shop Manual. They recommend removing the lower dash panel; I didn't. It might make it easier. I also did not remove the lock cylinder as they show, nor slide grommet completely off of shift selector.

If the new transceiver works, and you have only the one working chip key, what I did was 3-M Trim Cemented the key to the transceiver, moved it to the left side of column, wires will reach, put it upside down beneath the turn signal switch, held in place with a tiny bungee cord. Then, any key cut to work the cylinder will operate the vehicle. Regarding programming, if you are using your original key(s), they will operate the transceiver properly, no programming. If you choose to "fool" the transceiver as outlined above, any key, right chip
wrong chip, or no chip, which will turn the lock, will start the engine.
Good luck! Anxious to hear how it worked out. imp

 

[MyExplorer03v8Lim]

To wrap this up, the original fuse that I found blown, as a result of the mis-routed O2 sensor rubbing on the front drive shaft, was the whole problem.

My research indicated that the fuse was less important than it is, so I planned to have the shop that did my exhaust fix the fuse and sensor together once it was running.

Clearly this was poor judgement. Truck is running fine now.

EDIT:
I feel like I should add that I live in an extremely remote area, at the top of a long mountain road, so deliveries are lost all the time. I wasn't ignoring the fuse, the package was lost twice.