no steering | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

no steering

adam45356

Well-Known Member
Joined
April 19, 2005
Messages
260
Reaction score
0
City, State
Piqua,ohio
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991,1992 EB's and 94 LTD
well today my steering just quit
it seemed to work fine before a little winieing but now theres no power sterring

should i just get a new pump there not that expensive
or is it lines or somthing else

when you turn the wheel though it doset make any wineing on powerstering noicse at all but the fluid still moves around in the pump tank or whatever its called. any ideas?
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Power steering pump : Pressure line : Steering gear : Return line

That’s all the components of Power steering system.

Usually when these things go out, there would have been a lot of leaking prior. Did you notice excess amounts of ATF dripping everywhere you parked?

Before you replace the pump, you need to find out what caused it to go out.

Most common problems
1) O-Ring on the pressure line fitting for the pump.
2) Rubber end of return line, or clip wearing out.
3) Power steering gear leaking.

Once you find the leak you should go ahead and get the replacement part that you need (hopefully it’s not the gear! $200+) and get a new pump. A new pressure line and return line isn’t required, but for $10 bucks a piece you can’t go wrong. But make sure you ATLEAST replace the o-ring on the pressure line.

For the pump I used Cardone brand at Napa. $75 for pump and reservoir tank. You don’t need a new pulley, but I got one because it was like $15 bucks and I thought it looked good.

You will need the power steering pulley removal kit. This kit is crucial, because removing that pulley is the HARDEST part about this job, more tedious than anything.

Placing the pump should take no longer then an hour or two with a couple buddies helping out.

1) Remove the Serpentine belt, and the intake tube, swing those suckers out of the way.

2) You will need to remove the A/C compressor and swing it out of the way, or hang it from the hood.

3) Use the pulley removal kit, and remove the power steering pulley; you want to do this first because you can’t unbolt the pump with the pulley on.

4) Once you get the pulley off (I’m serious, that part sucks) go ahead and remove/replace your old pump with your new one, if anything replace the o-ring around the pressure line (Line on the direct side of the pump). Screw pressure line in.

5) With your new power steering pump, it should have come with a little plug where the return hose goes. Leave that plug in there for the time being, and let the return line sit there. You might want to get a bucket at this point, and leave it underneath the return hose. You are going to need it set up like this to bleed the power steering pump.

6) Now you got to put the new pulley on. Use your power steering pulley kit to press that sucker back on there (much much much easier said, then done)

7) From there, put the A/C compressor back on, put the belt back on, and reinstall the intake tube. Yr almost done.

Bleeding Power steering
This part is simpler then it sounds.

1) Put the front on stands, so the front wheels are suspended in the air

2) Make sure the return line is disconnected from the power steering pump, Also make sure to put a plug in the return line fitting on the pump itself (usually comes with new pump). You can run a tube from the end of the line to a bucket, so you can catch the fluid... much cleaner

3) Fill reservoir with new AFT (I recommend MOBIL 1 Synthetic),

4) Crank the steering from left to right, from complete lock to lock. Fluid should be shooting out the return line like a volcano, do this until ALL the old dirty fluid is out and fresh clean AFT is pouring out. 2-3 quarts should be enough.

5) Keep doing that until the reserviour is close to empty, but not entirly.

6) Reconnect the hose to the reservoir. Do it quickly and you shouldn't spill much. Refill the reservoir.

7) Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock quickly several times to bleed the air from the lines (with the engine off), then look into the tank and see if there are any air bubbles. Once all the air bubbles are finished, start the engine (for no longer then 15 seconds) and turn the wheel lock to lock to circulate the fluid. Turn off the engine and repeat this step until no more air bubbles appear. Make sure the tank does not get too low!

You don’t want to skimp on the bleeding part (step 7); if you do your pump will become very noisy. Once a pump starts to make noise, there is no way to reverse it.
 






thanks huys prob solved power steering pump crapt out new one installed and it steers easyer than are lincoln amazingly

so to blead i need to disconect the bouttom line not the high presser and turn wheel from lock to lock
 






Sorry to dig up an old thread, but does anybody know where I can find a replacement o-ring for the high pressure line? I tried using a standard rubber o-ring, but that just made it worse.
 






NAPA should have it. It comes with a new pump, or a new pressure line. You should be able to buy it individually.
 






Creager said:
NAPA should have it. It comes with a new pump, or a new pressure line. You should be able to buy it individually.

Thanks, man. I'll check it out if my "quick fix" doesn't hold up. Right now I just have some high temp permatex thread sealer in there. It looks like it's holding, but I can't see **** at night with the flashlight.
 






haha i feel yeah

Yeah that o-ring is probably 85% of pump failure
 






I went by napa today and they knew what I wanted but the guy said he couldn't sell it individually, I had to either buy a line or a pump. Then he told me to go down to a dealership and ask them. :thumbdwn: I'm gonna ride it out with the thread sealer just cause I hate dealing with stealerships. Back when I replaced the LIM gaskets, I found that three of my fuel rail studs were stripped. I went to a dealership to order some and they wanted $50 for three studs. :eek:
 






The new line is like $10 from www.rockauto.com

I bet that thread-sealer will never go bad though =)

Just keep an eye on it. If worse comes to worse, JB weld that sucker.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top