O/D Light Blinking and P0732

[xlt03]

O/D Light Blinking and P0732 - SOLVED!

Got the dreaded O/D light linking. Used Innova 3150 Scanner and pulled P0732- gear 2 incorrect ratio

Took vehicle out for test drive and here's findings:
If I select each each gear on a flat road I have first, second, third, fourth. O/D is unknown since light is blinking.

From a stopped position on a hill going up hill and I select :
1st gear the vehicles moves up the hill. I let off the gas and vehicles rolls backwards a bit.
2nd gear the vehicles moves up the hill but takes more gas/throttle. I let off the throttle and vehicle does not roll back and vehicle feels like it's stuck with the parking brake applied. If I give it some gas, it moves uphill and when I let go of the throttle it feels like it's stuck again.
3rd gear the vehicles moves up the hill but takes more gas/throttle. I let off the throttle and vehicle does not roll back and vehicle feels like it's stuck with the parking brake applied. If I give it some gas, it moves uphill and when I let go of the throttle it feels like it's stuck again.
4th gear (D) the vehicles moves up the hill and when I let go of the gas, the vehicles rolls backwards a bit.

If I go downhill and downshift from 4th(D) to 3rd gear I feel if shift to that gear, same when downshifting for 3rd gear to 2nd gear, and same from 2nd to 1st gear.

History of vehicle: I'm the original owner. 2003 Explorer 4X4 4.6L; 5R55S transmission, Door sticker Trans code is V. Axle is D4. Current mileage is 126,250. Transmission started at 88,000 miles to have delayed reverse engagement when cold and shuttered a bit but engaged. Changed fluid and filter at 88,000 miles, drained pan, replaced filter only. Did not flush. Morning reverse shuttering continues. I figured it needed to build pressure to engage.
No transmission leaks. This is the original transmission.

My thoughts and proposed plan:
Drop the pan and inspect contents. From what I read from BrooklynBay I may or may not find a servo/band strut on the bottom of pan; I'm thinking not since I seem to have all gears and if so then pull the solenoid and do the resistance ohms test. If OK then drop the valve body and check band for breakage. Pull the servos out of the sides of the case and inspect the servos and servo bores. If bore(s) are elongated I'll buy the servo bore pistons fix from www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com. If the bores are OK I'll replace with new pistons and new o-rings on the caps.

How do I check/inspect the valve body? I may have missed a link in searching for my solutions for the blinking O/D light.

P0732 would suggest something is mechanically broken but I'm thinking not since I seem to have all gears. Am I mistaken?


Your thoughts, comments, experiences and suggestions are appreciated.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I would suspect a broken band or worn servo bores with this amount of mileage. Check this link: http://engine-codes.com/p0732_ford.html. In addition to the information in the link you should check the valve body gasket for chipping fragments, check the valve body for loose valve body bolts, adjust the bands to determine if the bands are broken, check the servo bores for wear, and replace the servos. You don't have to drop the pan to inspect for broken band parts if the bands are capable of being adjusted.

 

[xlt03]

I adjusted the bands and took vehicle for a test drive and still have the blinking O/D light. Have dropped the pan and fluid seems pretty clean and no burnt smell. Slight gray sludge on magnet but not significant. Dropped solenoid pack and did resistance test. All within specs EXCEPT for Pins 3 & 11 - got 9.6 ohms; 3 & 1 got 9.7 ohms; and 3 & 4 got 9.7 ohms. The range for those three pins should be 3.3 - 7.5 ohms. Wondering if I should continue to drop valve body for further inspection. Also wondering if I should remove the servos to inspect servo bores. OR should I replace solenoid block first with the thought that this is the problem. Kinda dread removing servos because of tight squeeze.Anyone had any experience with Cascade Transmission (Ebay seller) in Oregon for their solenoid blocks?

 

[xlt03]

I did pull the valve body down to inspect and both sides of the gasket (more like a plate with bonded material) and all looks good. No chipping or visible signs of wear or damage. Yes, I made sure I kept the valve body in the upright position so the check balls didn't fall out. BTW if you haven't bought yourself the 1/4" Bosch PS41 Impact Driver you should consider it. Makes for quick bolt, screws and nut removal. Thanks, Fordtechmakuloco for your videos on YouTube using this driver tool, if I didn't see it I would not have known. A great addition to my tool box.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Did you check the internal wiring harness from point to point to see if there is continuity on each wire? Is there any corrosion in the bulkhead connector? Are the pins straight, loose or bent in the bulkhead connector?

 

[seebeeare]

I'm having simmilar issues I will be following closly... od light flashing only after about 50miles...I get a Sgutter at about 55 and haven't noticed it as much with od off... looking for just the cylinoids and can't seem to find them.
5r55s... bought a filter debating on an ebay valve body.. question one would a bad b cylinoid be exaggerated in od? Or should I get an od servo too?

 

[BrooklynBay]

Welcome to this forum! The solenoids are integrated into a one piece block. You can't buy them individually.

 

[xlt03]

Pins on bulkhead connectors are straight, not bent or corroded. Pretty clean up there as this is a California car that only sees snow 3-4 times a year. No rust on the underside. Will check point to point on wires tomorrow. You are referring to the pin ends on solenoid side of harness connector to higher up the harness to the next connector? Also what are your thoughts to the values (measured at the solenoid block) of the resistance measurements on solenoid block? The black plastic hooks of the solenoid broke when I removed the block, I figure they're not too important since block is fastened to the case with the screws...agreed? Would you replace the solenoid block based on my resistance measurements as stated above?

I'm thinking that the valve body has been ruled out, bands ruled out. Solenoid block is suspect and OD & IM servos would be next to be inspected. Would you agree or have other advice?

 

[xlt03]

Seebeeare. Don't throw parts at it without going thru the steps to diagnose. Did you scan for a code? Make sure scanner has capabilities to scan enhanced codes, Autozone scanner may not. Next go thru all the things I did and heed the advice of BrooklynBay as he is pointing me in a methodical direction. One last thing don't buy remanufactured solenoid blocks, they are not much cheaper than new ones from Ebay. It's not worth the extra time to replace a second time and getting rained on with Mercon V.

 

[BrooklynBay]

This link shows a photo comparison between various types of solenoid blocks: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/fiveltrdave/media/5R55_Solenoid_Pac.jpg.html. Many places sell solenoid blocks such as WWW.TransmissionPartsUSA.Com, WWW.BulkPart.Com, WWW.Wittrans.Com, and WWW.Transtar1.Com. Some places offer solenoid block testing if you want to test your old solenoid block. Ask Donny at Central Valve Bodies if he offers this service. I know that he stands behind his work. I still suspect the servo bores in addition to the solenoid block since both of them usually last for 60K miles. You have more than twice this amount of mileage.

 

[seebeeare]

Seebeeare. Don't throw parts at it without going thru the steps to diagnose. Did you scan for a code? Make sure scanner has capabilities to scan enhanced codes, Autozone scanner may not. Next go thru all the things I did and heed the advice of BrooklynBay as he is pointing me in a methodical direction. One last thing don't buy remanufactured solenoid blocks, they are not much cheaper than new ones from Ebay. It's not worth the extra time to replace a second time and getting rained on with Mercon V.

Im not trying to hijack a thread...ok maybe a little but since we were on the topic of trannys I thought this would be a good place to start...

I have rancodes with a scanner ... I got a bad cylinoid b and a bad gear ratio 5...po735 po775 I have reset the codes and they haven't returned even after od light flashed... I'm using a scanner from a Hyundai dealership. ..)
Got a 4 button key fob (didn't work if anyone needs one) and rhe first drive after the 4x4s light flashed hasn't came back after I shut down the rig... I think I might a bought a can of worms... however I have shut off the CEL and abs lights... next is door ajar... lol

 

[BrooklynBay]

I think that you have a servo bore issue judging from the codes that you posted above. There should be a code stored if you see a flashing O/D light.

 

[xlt03]

Seebeeare . Servo bore fix can be purchased here http://www.fordservoboretransmissionfixsolution.com/
I may be buying one myself after getting a solenoid block first.

 

[xlt03]

P0732 and flashing o/d light - solved

The problem was the servo bores and possibly the solenoid pack.
Here's what I have done and in this order.

1. Adjusted the bands and test drove vehicle. Still got the flashing O/D light and same code.
2. Drained transmission and inspect for band strut in pan for possible broken band. No strut found and band appeared intact.
3. Removed the valve body. Inspected both side of the separator plate for blown out gasket. Found material was intact. NOTE: KEEP VALVE BODY IN SAME ORIENTATION AND DO NOT FLIP UPSIDE DOWN OR THE CHECK BALLS WILL FALL OUT WHEN YOU REMOVE THE SEPARATOR PLATE.
4. Pulled solenoid pack out and did resistance test. A couple of values were beyond the range. Ordered new solenoid pack. Installed pack and new filter with 7 qts of Meron V. Did a PCM reset. Test drove vehicle and got the flashing O/D light again..
5. Intalled the servo bore fix kit. Test drove vehicle and NO O/D flashing light. Did PCM reset and drove vehicle so PCM can relearn the shift logic. Shifts like new inspite of 126, 280 miles on the clock.

A couple of thoughts:

If you get the servo bore fix kit order the servo cap o-rings AND their modified 90 degree needle nose pliers. Harbor Freight has them for $5.99 but you still have to modify and it was troublesome. You'll save time buying theirs. Remember, the fix is considered temporary and you may have to do it again down the line so the tool will be used again. There is an extra set of servo bore o-rings that comes with the kit.

The part number for the replacement solenoid pack was 1L2Z*7G391*AG on my vehicle.

To reset PCM, remove the negative cable from battery. Place clean rag over negative post of battery. Use a small jumper wire and clip on to positive cable, take other end of jumper wire and clip onto the negative battery cable. Leave as is for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes remove jumper wire and rag. Reconnect negative cable back onto battery post, tighten battery cable. Start vehicle and go to test drive
See video

A BIG THANKS to BrooklynBay for his input in helping me out on ths issue. Also thanks to those you for the PM offering to sell me their unused servo bore kit. My family ordered me one for my 60th birthday so I didn't buy yours. Hopefully you can offer to someone else in need.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Thanks for the update! So far all of our members with the modified servos are satisfied. I haven't seen anybody complain about premature failures.