O/D off button, doesn't work, searched, need options

[Jbrobeck]

I am new to the explorer world, I previously had a 2002 Ranger XLT 4.0L sohc, and have been a member of the boards here for a while, but now own a 2000 Mountaineer Monterey edition, 5.0, 4r70w, AWD(don't know the T-case designation) Limited slip.

I have Fixed the rear wiper (just tore apart the motor and spun it 90* so its not ending on the same spot anymore, works every time now)

The only problem left to solve is the O/D Off button.... I like to have everything working and I would like to resolve this.

It does not operate whatsoever, the tranny shifts normal and everything is well, but when I push the OD button, I get no response, no dash light, no raise in RPM.

I did a search and came up with very little, there was something about a ground wire coming from the shift stalk, corresponding to the switch that I should check, but I need to know if there are any other things I should check while I have the column apart.

Thanks in advance.

Josh

 

[DCExplorer]

I had the same problem when I first got my Explorer. Took it in for service under warrentee and they replaced the button switch. That fixed it.

 

[budwich]

I only have 96 drawings / book. Hopefully the cable colors are the same along with operation.... if not hopefully some will correct. According to 96 schematic, "Hot in Run" come in on P/O and leaves thru the switch (towards the controller) on T/W. Thus, you should see power there when the botton is depressed and nothing when the button is released... it is a momentary contact. Hope it helps.

 

[Jbrobeck]

Ok, so if nothing else, if I find that there are only 2 wires, I should be able to just jump them out and bypass the switch alltogether, now.... What is the best way to get the switch apart? Do I need to take the covers off of the steering column? Or does the end of the shifter come apart to expose the switch?

Thanks for the help. I ordered a set of Factory service manuals, but it will be a bit before they get here, so any help in the mean time is greatly appreciated.

Josh

 

[410Fortune]

I jsut wired this button into my 88 BII.
One wire goes to 12V+ when the truck is running, the other wire goes directly to the PCM.
The PCM then has a wire out directly to the instrument cluster for the OD light.

To bypass the button and see if the dash light comes on you need to hook one wire from the switch to 12V+

I would replace the switch/button

 

[budwich]

Not sure if I can help much more... although I would do a continuity check on the switch closure before trying to replace it. I couldn't find much on my reference for replacing just the switch. In my old S10 GM, the switch was not replaceable without buying the whole arm (in that case, the switch was on the signal light side... expensive $180). Maybe ford dealer / parts or someone here will give you an idea if the switch is replaceable. The shift arm appears to take a bit to come off / out... a couple of covers and a roll pin.

 

[Blee1099]

Also check the fuse panel.. I had mine go out and it was simply the fuse.

 

[Jbrobeck]

Well..... I got it working, I removed the stereo bezel, guage bezel, knee panel and column covers. I folowed the wire back, and found where it was pinched and broken, I made the repair and re-routed the wire with a little more slack in it.

Here is the kicker... I figured out where it was broken by just wiggling the wire from the lever and worked my way down and found it at the first wire holder, by moving it, the O/D light went on and off like normal. I removed the wiring and lever to repair it, and much to my suprise when I put it back in, it did not work at all, I took it back out put a meter on the end of the plug and checked the continuity on the switch, it worked perfectly. Then I checked the plug under the dash and got 12.6 volt (engine not running) at the purple wire which was the supply, So I know I was geting power to the switch. I then started testing the voltage through the switch back to the plug and all the way to the junction at the firewall, I would get 12.6 volts on the tan/white wire everytime I pushed the switch without fault, but still would not get it to show on the dash..... I then pulled the Power distribution block out from the drivers side fender well, and tested the wire through the main junction blocks that lead to the engine wire loom, and again found it working properly, but no indications at the guage cluster that it was working. I didn't know where to start within the engine loom as far as testing went, so I just started putting it back together.

By the time I got back to putting the dash back together, I started the truck, and let it run with the A/C on, (ITS HOT OUT TODAY!) while I finished the dash. After about 5 mins, I decided what the heck, I'll try it again, and to my suprise it works perfect!!
I then reached under the dash and started wiggling wires again trying to get it to fail, No such luck, works every time!

Only thing I can think of is that while I was doing all of this, pushing the button, testing, unplugging, jumping out the pins, etc. perhaps the computer locked out the function seeing it as a problem, and when I started the truck back up and let it run, the computer timed out/reset and allowed it to function again??? I took it for a test drive and all works properly. Hopefully that is the end of it. I'll keep updating this with any good/bad news related to this issue.

Thanks

Josh

 

[budwich]

Glad you fixed it... my S10 had the same problem... crimped wire plus the wire had broken just as it entered the signal light arm on the steering. Anyways, it appears that you at least now have a way to track down your problems should it re-occur.

As for why it didn't work immediately after you put together but some time thereafter, you are probably right that the GEM plays a role in some of it and perhaps things needed a bit of a "reset" / normal run to get "aligned".