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Odd almost overheat issues

goobenet

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 29, 2004
Messages
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City, State
Waite Park, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT
Braintrust,

I've got a 94 XLT automatic with 146k on the clock that just started showing signs that something is wrong as far as cooling goes. I'm not quite sure what it could be, hopefully y'all could point me down a road... (i'm not rich, but i also don't have money to buy a new vehicle, so nickel and dime away!)

Here's the issue: Start the X cold, it's fine, i let it sit for about 5 minutes in the morning (here in MN it could be -20 or +40, who knows) and i hear like, a metal-on-metal scratching sound, but i cannot pinpoint it, but it goes away after a few minutes. (water pump going out?)

Now here's the real issue, i took it on a christmas trip (100 miles one way) and about 60 miles into the trip i noticed the temp gauge had decided to go a little higher than what i normally see it go. It made it all the way to the "A" in NORMAL. It has NEVER gotten that hot EVER . Normal range for that is barely above the N (in the summer it'll get to the O). I know the t-stat is okay because i can see the thing open by the gauge going back down to below the "N" and slowly creeping back up. I'm going to replace it anyways and see what shall be. (i've been told it could be sticking)

It doesn't appear to be head gaskets (yet) either, rad cap off, rev the engine, nothing spews, no bubbles, nada. I've burped the system a few times, and that sometimes helps. Which leads me to think that air is somehow getting into the system. I have no water in the oil, no oil in the water.

I've been told it could be the following:

Rad cap. Cheap fix, one is on the way from ford. (stealership didn't have any in stock)

T-Stat sticking. Again, gonna replace this in the next few days.

Fan Clutch. Now this one confuses me. I've done the tests posted here on the forums, and from what i can tell, it's okay. I'd rather not replace it if it seems to be fine, seeing as how ford is really proud of thes 13 year old parts. ($177!?)

I would do a compression test, but the plugs are rusted in and i don't feel like dropping $1500 on a head job when i might not need one (yet, i know it's coming).


Any other thoughts? :(
 



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So far, the only mechanical cause I've had for overheating or the temp needle gauge going higher has been the themostat. Towing heavy loads or using the A/C makes the reading higher, too. I've replaced the water pump twice thinking it was the issue, but it was the thermostat, and the serpentine belt is usually the cause for the screeching. Check the ribbed side of the belt for cracks, and the smooth side for glossy parts showing slippage. If it has either, get a new belt.

If yours is approaching 150K and has never had the thermostat, water pump, etc. replaced, I would seriously suggest replacing the pump at the same time as the thermostat while you're in there. Also, coolant wears out over time, and running old coolant can impair the ability of the cooling system to do it's job. Use a 50/50 or 60/40 mix of new coolant and fresh water to get the best results.
 






Braintrust,



Here's the issue: Start the X cold, it's fine, i let it sit for about 5 minutes in the morning (here in MN it could be -20 or +40, who knows) and i hear like, a metal-on-metal scratching sound, but i cannot pinpoint it, but it goes away after a few minutes. (water pump going out?)
(

I had the same exact issue with one of my jeeps and it was in fact the water pump. hope this helps
 






Yeah, right now!

Braintrust,
Here's the issue: Start the X cold, it's fine, i let it sit for about 5 minutes in the morning (here in MN it could be -20 or +40, who knows) and i hear like, a metal-on-metal scratching sound, but i cannot pinpoint it, but it goes away after a few minutes. (water pump going out?)
Yep -- from the sounds of it, your impeller is going eccentric; this will just keep getting worse if you let it go, and ultimately, it'll just stop working with no further notice. Anime4x4 gave you some good advice: replace the thermostat at the same time as the pump, flush the cooling system and replace with 60/40 while you've got it all apart anyway.

The higher temps you're seeing are probably related to the pump going out: if the impeller isn't working as designed, you're not getting the coolant flow volume the engine wants.

You're lucky: you got some warning before the pump blows. I'd take care of this right now if I were you.
 






yeah, metal on metal sound? I would be changing that water pump pronto. And like others have said change your coolant and thermostat too. Make sure you flush your rad or better yet take it to a shop and have them boil it out pressure test and check for signs of cracks.
 






Thanks everyone, seeing as how it's new years eve, on a sunday, it'll have to sit until tuesday when the parts shops open again. The radiator was replaced 2 years ago due to the infamous radiator rot. But, i'm pretty sure they didn't flush the block, so i'm sure there's gunk in there now.

Anyone have a preference of brand for water pump/t-stat? I've seen a lot of talk of Stant on here...

Thanks.


BTW, the metal on metal sound has been happening ever since i got the truck 2 years ago. Only in cold weather. Could it have been telling me to change it for the past 2 years?!
 






another question is, i have had the "dancing temp" gauge for a while now, is that cured with a water pump, or a new sending unit? I've searched but it'd seem that those who've figured it out, never post the answer... :/
 






Stant makes good stuff, but I've stuck with Motorcraft on the t-stat after trying a few from AutoZone and Napa that were ok, but gave lots of temp flux, cool temps at idle and hot temps for highway driving. It's about the same price as any other t-stat if you get it at a shop (not a dealer) that carries Motorcraft, too.

With a new t-stat, water pump, coolant, and serpentine belt (just replace it if its 2 years old), I expect both the sound and temp gauge problems will be eliminated, however there are other parts that can make the sound and electrical issues that can affect the gauge, but if the problems still exist after doing this work, it will eliminate some possible causes.
 






Well, i changed one thing at a time today just to find out what it was... Started with the water pump, same deal, put the rad cap on, same deal, put a new t-stat in... BINGO. The old one had somehow shifted so that it would only open about 1/4 the way. So, $100 to find out it was a $6 problem all along... Ah well, nobody ever said new parts was a bad thing. :)


Thanks all.
 






Braintrust,

i hear like, a metal-on-metal scratching sound, but i cannot pinpoint it, but it goes away after a few minutes. (water pump going out?)
:(

Did any of these fix this issue?
 






Yes, water pump got rid of that noise, i'm going to disect the old pump today and see if i can find where it was rubbing... will post pix as soon as i get to it.
 






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