Oil Change DIY

[xmas63]

I'd like to change the oil myself on my '98 Explorer, and I was wondering if there was a DIY or some documentation around for this. (I did a search but couldn't find anything...)

I know this is real easy to do; I just don't want to eff anything up...

Thanks!

 

[redShift]

Get a haynes manual, itll come in handy for many other things

 

[BradE.]

There is not much to it.

1. Drain oil from pan (Plug uses 13mm wrench)
2. Remove oil filter and replace with new one
3. Reinstall Oil pan drain plug
4. Fill up engine with 5 quarts of oil.

That's pretty much it.

 

[Baldguy]

Dipstick

I believe you're supposed to remove the oil dipstick when filling the oil....just some fyi.

Takes about 10 mins to do the oil change....and you know it's been done correctly.

 

[aldive]

Re: Dipstick

Originally posted by Baldguy
I believe you're supposed to remove the oil dipstick when filling the oil....just some fyi.

I have never heard of that; whats the logic?

Thanks.....

 

[aldive]

Originally posted by BradE.
There is not much to it.

1. Drain oil from pan (Plug uses 13mm wrench)
2. Remove oil filter and replace with new one
3. Reinstall Oil pan drain plug
4. Fill up engine with 5 quarts of oil.

That's pretty much it.

Good list, I might also add that you should warm up the oil prior to draining.

Good luck....

 

[Baldguy]

Dipstick Removal

You know, I have no idea why this has to be done.

All I know is that reading the label on the inside of the hood indicates oil type and quantity and a note indicating to remove the dipstick when adding oil.

Maybe it has something to do with letting air escape from the pan when adding the oil???

If anyone has any idea why this is indicated needing to be done.......

 

[CHuntMD]

Get a engine oil drain plug. I've had this one

Dead Link Removed

installed since 1997 and it works great.

Chris

 

[xmas63]

Thanks, everyone, for the info. Couple of follow-up questions:

-- Will I need to jack up the front of the car?
-- If so, where are the jack points?
-- Are there torque specs that I should use for the drain plug and/or oil filter cap?

(BTW, I would imgine that removing the dipstick would be to let air in so that the old oil flows out smoothly and, more importantly, to ensure that it drains completely. Not a bad idea.)

Thanks again.

 

[BradE.]

I just use ramps to change the oil. Jackstands to too much of a PITA for just an oil change.

The ramps I have are called Rhino Ramps, you can get them at AutoZone for $30.

 

[addkev]

the fact that your fill plug is off when filling and the PCV valve will let in plenty of air. Nice try.

 

[EasyRhino]

Just did all of my cars:

1. Buy parts, have on hand. (saves Dohs!) Do not buy crappy filters or crappy oil (lots of opinions abound on this topic alone).

2. Have oil up to normal operating temperature (gets contaminates in suspension), I ususally do this by driving to the parts store to get my oil change supplies.

3. Park and Block truck. (safety) I do not jack mine up, the ground clearance is adequate to change oil without).

4. Locate oil drain plug, place catch pan under plug. Remove (size varies with engine, but 13, 15, & 16 mm a common Ford sizes) and stand back while the hot oil flows. Plug is stuck on the bottom/side of a black sheet metal pan on the bottom of the engine.

5. Locate oil filter, place catch pan under everything (depending on engine, some oil will go everywhere) Remove and stand back. Once removed, tip it to drain the rest into your pan. My explorer's filters have all been towards the front of the engine, typically on the driver's side.

6. Wipe off oil plan drain plug area and reinstall oil pan drain plug (or substitute plug system - I use Fram's, but there are better ones), and hand tighten - do not overdo it. Wipe off again to assist in checking for leaks later.

7. Wipe off oil filter boss on engine, and inspect both the boss and the removed filter to ensure that the gasket that is in the top of the filter is NOT left on the engine.

8. Compare your new filter to the old - the threads/gasket, etc. should be the same. Now take a dab of fresh engine oil and smear it on the new filter gasket. Spin the new gasket on - should go on very easily. Once the gasket contacts, it will slow down, tighten it no more that about 1/4-1/2 turn or you'll never get it off later.

9. Wipe up all loose oil. Now get up and pour the recommended amount of oil into the valve cover fill connection. Check the oil level (to ensure you put it in there) it should be above the Max mark (your oil filter is empty). Replace the oil filler cap.

10. Carefully start your engine while watchnig the oil pressure gage/idiot light. It should start out in the red and then return to normal once the filter and oil galleries are filled with oil. If oil pressure does not come up within 5-10 seconds, shut it down and figure out what you missed.

11. Assuming the oil pressure came up, let it idle for several minutes while you (carefully) look for leaks at the oil filter/drain plug. Do not crawl under a running engine.

12. Now shut it off, and while it is on a level surface, wait a few minutes and then check the oil level. It should be at or about the MAX mark on the dipstick. Now you're done except recyling the used oil/filter.

Did I forget anything guys?

 

[aldive]

Another hint to make the job neater.... after loosening the oil filter, put a gallon size zip lock bag over it and then unscrew. No mess.

Be sure to consider going with synthetic oil.

 

[Bill Kemp]

I would second the Haynes manual purchase. There is a lot of info on this site and Dead Link Removed
However the manual gives you all the info and pics. If your are going to become a good nuckle busting grease monkey you need all the info you can get. Your first oil change savings will pay for it.

 

[MO_GUY]

if you want something to help you out during the cold months look into a drain plug like someone else said, a cheaper alternative to the one he posted is the Fram Sure-Drain you can buy them at any wal-mart for about 12 bucks

 

[EasyRhino]

Originally posted by MO_GUY
if you want something to help you out during the cold months look into a drain plug like someone else said, a cheaper alternative to the one he posted is the Fram Sure-Drain you can buy them at any wal-mart for about 12 bucks

I have put these on all my cars, and they work fine. I understand some people have found alternatives they like better, but these will do.

 

[Runnin'OnEmpty]

One more thing: On the V-8's you can pour about 1/2 quart of oil into the new filter before installing. On the 4.0 V-6 you can completely fill the new filter with oil. This prevents a "dry" first startup.

 

[mattadams]

I would stay away from the oil drainer's myself, but thats just me... I had the fram installed, but got sick of waiting forever for the oil to drain, not to mention that because the oil drained so slowly, there is no guarantee that the particulates in the oil would get flushed out. Also with my oil pan, there was still at least two cups of old oil left in the pan even when the fram was done draining (was discovered by removing the fram sure drain plug after all possible oil had been removed via the tube, and having it continue to flow out for another few minutes. I've since taken it out and replaced it with my standard drain plug.
Other then that, your procedures looked pretty good!

 

[EasyRhino]

Originally posted by Runnin'OnEmpty
One more thing: On the V-8's you can pour about 1/2 quart of oil into the new filter before installing. On the 4.0 V-6 you can completely fill the new filter with oil. This prevents a "dry" first startup.

I'm going to start doing that. Good One.

 

[EasyRhino]

Originally posted by mattadams
I would stay away from the oil drainer's myself, but thats just me... I had the fram installed, but got sick of waiting forever for the oil to drain, not to mention that because the oil drained so slowly, there is no guarantee that the particulates in the oil would get flushed out. Also with my oil pan, there was still at least two cups of old oil left in the pan even when the fram was done draining (was discovered by removing the fram sure drain plug after all possible oil had been removed via the tube, and having it continue to flow out for another few minutes. I've since taken it out and replaced it with my standard drain plug.
Other then that, your procedures looked pretty good!

I'm going to test that residual concern on my next change. What I will do is take a measurement with a graduated cylinder next time I change the oil. The residual concern with the Fram kit was previously mentioned on this board, so it's in the back of my head as well. I will report back my findings on the quantity of oil held back my the Fram kit. Next oil change will probably be in March.

I haven't been that concerned about the slow drain rate as it takes me a few minutes to start draining after I shut of the engine anyway, but I see your point.

Thinking outside of the box on this one, has anyone considered setting up a oil fill/flush system like they use on trannys? That is, a remote filter with t-fittings in th lines and a fill/drain pumping system? You could eliminate several problems such as residuals, dry starts, climbing under the truck, etc.