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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
How are you applying the RTV? And make sure the surfaces are clean (scrape it if needed) and flat (no dings that protrude from the surface, use a file).
No dings, no dents, all factory surfaces cleaned with brake clean and sealant applied liberaly. I also made sure to seal the bolt holes, and seams inside every time I put it together. I thought I had all my bases covered....... I thought wrong I suppose lol
How much fluid are you putting in it? If you put to much or do not extend the breather it can come out the breather seeing how it doesn't hold that much fluid.
I have the breather extended into the engine compartment. I can see the oil dripping out between the conversion plates. I let the unit sit for at least 24 hours so the sealent will cure and everything is tightened as muuch as possible with the allen wrenches and a cheater bar, or a ratchet depending on the fastner.
Do you guys think I should have the face of the plates machined? Or maybe a gasket? Or a different type of sealant??
I had trouble with the lower drivers side plate bolt. The hole has no sealing surface to the inside. You can try The Right Stuff in that area try to get it to seal the bolt. That's what the mechanic that went trough it for me the last time I installed it. I thought about drilling some small hole for short pins to make a fence to the inside and then use tape to form for JB Weld the the would be a sealing surface. Mine leeks very little with "The Right Stuff" and I don't drive it a lot and I doo keep and eye on it.
"The Right Stuff" is rated for ATF. Many RTV's are not. Make sure what you use is rated for ATF. ATF will break down many types of RTV. Biggest problem with that is the pieces of broken down RTV will circulate and get where it shouldn't be.
I went and got some RTV from the parts store that was for ATF. It was grey. I followed the directions exactly and let it sit for 24 hours. Cleaning all the parts with a wire wheel on my grinder and brack parts cleaner.
About the breather- mine was puking fluid out the stock breather. Pushing it all the way up to the hood level and puking it out. I figured the problem out. It was way overfilled for 1, secondly I relocated the breather to the upper most part of the case. All good now.
Doesn't only apply to the DD double, but make sure anytime you apply RTV, you put the bead on, then lightly tighten the bolts until it sets up, then crank it down after it has a chance to set a bit. That way you get a good seal and not just a thin flat bead... Works great on diff covers.
Motorcraft sells a gray RTV for resealing the intake's on 7.3L powerstrokes, you can get it at your local ford dealer. We use it on all kinds of stuff at our shop, I used it on my DD doubler and it hasn't ever leaked. Also remember to put some on all the threads of the bolts when you put everything back together and let it set up for a little while.
I had a lot of trouble with mine leaking at first and i tried almost every sealant i could find - even some high dollar anarobic sealer, I always had leaks. I didn't know about Right Stuff then or I probably would've tried that too. I added a sight glass to mine because I was always worried about the fluid level too low and its a pain to check the level on the doubler.
The last time I had it apart I noticed there were some small indentions where the plate was welded so i filled those with Jb weld, then used a file to make the surface flat. I dont have any more leaks and I only have regular rtv on it now.
and x2 on letting the rtv set up before tightening everything down
I can not imagine it leaking using the "Right Stuff". Don't over torque the bolts on the mating surfaces either. You do not want to squeeze it out.
Since I've gone to the Right Stuff on my 302 intake manifold at both ends where I used to use cork or rubber gaskets that always seemed to leak at the corners where the heads meet the block. No more vacuum leaks. And this is with about an 1/8" air gap there before I treat it with the Stuff.
Also follow the instructions to a T.
The right stuff would be the way to go, or loctite flange sealant, I've used it on all my t-cases and it works wonders. Also check to make sure your vent isn't plugged, a clogged vent will cause all kinds of leaks, I learned that the hard way after resealing my entire rear end 3 times in 2 months.