Oil Pan Gasket Calamity? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Oil Pan Gasket Calamity?

poopjohn

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April 26, 2010
Messages
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1993
Has anyone replaced the gasket for the oil pan on a 1993 ford explorer v6 4wd? I know the engine has to be removed, but I'm not exactly sure how this is done? Is there anyway I could jerry rig it out, or could I jack it up a bit? I'm just wondering if anyone has had an experience with this. I know if i take it to a shop its going to cost an arm and a leg, just for a freaking gasket.

Thanks for any input.
 



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There's no way around removing the engine, or at least completely disconnecting everything to remove it, and raise it up enough in the engine compartment to drop the pan. The pan is a structural component of the block by design, and the frame crossmember below it isn't easily removable, so there's not much else you can do short of removal or a custom fabricated way of making removal easier.

Removal is fairly easy with the block raised or out, just loosen the fasteners holding the pan to the block and transmission, then drop the pan down, being careful not to make contact with the oil pump attached to the bottom of the block.

A lot of Explorers that have the leaking oil pan gasket issue just live with it, or seal it up from the outside with some silicone, due to the involved nature of the proper replacement.
 






A lot of Explorers that have the leaking oil pan gasket issue just live with it, or seal it up from the outside with some silicone, due to the involved nature of the proper replacement.
nice idea
 






I am wondering whether you could lower the pan low enough without removing the engine to remove the gasket and then work the new gasket over the outside of the pan. It seems possible conceptually. Has anyone tried?
 






Being that its rubber it might work but I'm sure someone has tried.
 






Would putting sealant on the outside of the pan really stop the leak?
 






The proper way of sealing it is with a gasket and sealant on the gasket, so it would be incredibly difficult to do properly without the pan clear out of the way for access to both surfaces for proper cleaning and installation.

It probably would be possible to drop the pan, cut and yank out the old gasket with cured sealant on it, then do what you could for cleaning, and just squirt sealant in a tube along the gasket surface, then putting the pan back in place and bolting it up, but it's a lot easier to type about it than to do it, since the space you'd be working in would be extremely cramped, and the time it would take to do it might exceed that of just disconnecting stuff and raising the engine to do it right.

Silicone on the exterior of a gasket seal isn't perfect, but it can be a stopgap measure for minor leaks. I've even used black silicone to seal leaking head gaskets on the outside of the head and block, and though it only works for awhile, it does work. For a seal that isn't leaking due to pressure, it would likely work great and last quite awhile, plus redoing it every so often isn't that big a deal. It's definitely a cheaper and easier solution, and something I'd at least try before yanking the engine just for an oil pan gasket leak.
 






Well, I tried putting sealant on the problem areas, hopefully it temporarily fixes it. However, one of these that i do want to remove the engine, and actually replace the gasket and a few other parts. I've never done it, but i would like to learn how to do it. Do you have any advice on what kind of lifts work the best or anything like that?
 






All you need to pop the engine out is a large engine hoist and enough chain to attach the engine to the hook. Of course, the major part of the work is unbolting the tranny from the block first, and disconnecting all the exhaust, fuel, wiring, etc.

You can make an engine pull easier by removing the hood, and dropping the axles down on jackstands with the wheels/tires removed so it sits as low as it can, making it a lot less work with the hoist to raise the engine out.
 






Also make sure you unbolt the torque converter and leave it in the tranny and support the transmission and transfer case.:D
 






I tried putting sealant around the oil pan, but there are some crevices i just can't reach. I noticed a couple of droplets of oil around the pan but it will take a couple of days to see if it helped any. But would a leaky gasket cause low oil pressure? I've noticed when I fill the oil to full, the pressure stays in the center, and after about a week or two of driving, (depending if i drive alot) the oil pressure goes down a little. I usually put more in.

I figure, if I did buy the hoist and everything that goes into taking the engine out, I would make the money back in a year of driving, just because I wouldn't have to refill the oil pan. (plus I have experience in doing something like this, and I will have the tools if i ever have to do this again).

If I ever do get around to taking the engine out, what else should I replace while I'm doing this? (If I'm doing this, i might as well do as much as i can while its out.)
 






The oil pump and screen with a mellings m328 high flow pump and front and rear seals
 






And if you got money to spend,new cam,head gaskets,lower intake gasket and rocker arms!!
 






Could you drop the pivot arms? Do the bushings and the oil pan gasket at the same time?
 






I don't know how big your leak is but Auto-rx cleans up slow leaks pretty well. Won't help if you're dumping a quart a week out the pan.
 






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