Oil pressure low - V8 5.0L

[RaistliN]

Good luck with that man - Mine has started doing a slight "piston slap" kind of noise I used to get in my old car "Olds Alero /w V6 3.5ltr" I'm hoping mine isn't starting the what you're currently going through!

 

[2000StreetRod]

wouldn't drive

Assuming the gauge is correct (and the dash indicator backs it up) I would not drive with oil pressure that low. You risk the engine seizing and getting stranded. If the engine seizes it is more difficult to pull the engine because of no access to the torque converter bolts.

At 100,000 miles there should not be enough bearing to journal clearance to result in that low of pressure. Since the camshaft position sensor is connected to the same shaft that drives the oil pump, if the there is a problem with the drive then you should be experiencing engine performance issues. I suspect that your oil pump is not developing adequate pressure. It could be something as simple as a clogged pickup but more likely a broken or weak pressure relief valve or worn rotors or housing.

When you changed your oil was there any indication of sludge in the pan? You have already done an engine flush and it didn't help. You might try draining all of the oil, reinstall the plug and then add two bottles of engine flush and let it soak for at least a day to dissolve potential sludge in the pan. Then drain the flush and see what it looks like. Add new oil to the normal level and then start the engine and note any oil pressure change. I would not run the engine with more than 1 bottle of flush and I would not drive the vehicle with any flush.

I suspect the real solution is to replace the oil pump.

 

[SoNic67]

I did replaced the pump and still the same (500$ wasted). There wasn't too much sludge in the pan. Just some micro/sandy looking particles.
I did pull one (right side) of the cylinder heads too before that (long story, broken spark plug in head) and the head wasn't that bad either...
After the Seafoam thou, the oil was really dirthy and almost mud-like.
I did have a P0340 code before (CPS), but I did change the alternator and that cleared it. So I guess the oil pump gear is all right. How about the square hole in the bottom of syncronizer that connects to oil pump shaft (new shaft too) - I wonder can that be stripped?

 

[2000StreetRod]

running out of ideas

OK, I'm rapidly running out of ideas to easily solve the problem. I assume that when your oil pump was replaced that the pickup tube and screen would have been cleaned. I'm also assuming that you have no external engine oil cooler or remote filter. There's not much left other than excessive bearing to journal clearances.

 

[swetrid]

What weight oil are you using. 5W20 is like water. Back in the day when I had foxbody mustangs I always used 10w30 or 10w40 because they used alot of oil. Did you ever try a 10w30 or 10w40 and see if it made a difference.

 

[SoNic67]

OK. Went to NAPA and bought the last syncronizer in town (tried all others "players" - order only). Took out the one in my truck and this are some pics:
New part. Made in China, 50$. It says NEW (not REMAN) on the computer listing.

Connecting hex to oil pump - new part. 1/4" hex gets in there tight.

Conencting hex - old part. Sorry, didn't realized was so bad pic. Looks like has semnificative worn-out edges. 1/4" hex gets in there loosly. Wonder if at 190F the dilatation is enough to "slip" on the oil pump shaft.

Old part gears. Loks like there are worn-out marks.

In the hole:

Can that be the case? Worn-out hex?

Bad thing is that the "new" part won't go in. Dind't try to hammer it down... just pushed really hard. I wonder if the gears won't mesh (fabrication defect)... box had the plastic broken like somebody else open it before. The old one goes in very easy.
I guess I have to order another one to know for sure?

 

[2000StreetRod]

Dorman synchronizer

If the synchronizer you purchased is made by Dorman I would take it back and get a refund. See Cam position sensor questions...

You may be on to something regarding the rounded hex. Since you replaced the shaft when you replaced the oil pump hopefully the shaft is still good.

 

[SoNic67]

I will return that one - after I use the alignment tool. I already ordered a Motorcraft one online.

The shaft looks all right in the pic... hope is still good. If is not and that's why the new one won't go in , I am f****t.

The new synchronizer has "Made in China" stamped all over it. NAPA sells it unde "Balkamp BK 6002901" name. Listed Manufacturer: Dorman Automotive Manufacturing. Thanks for the link - I found that in 2008 was at least two other guys that waheren't able to mesh the Dorman synchronizer (like me).

I might not need the alingnment tool. The old part goes back in just SIX positions - based on the fact that the hex of the oil pump didn't rotate (has no reason why it would). So, if I took a pic of the flag position, I can put it accuratelly in the same location.
The synchronizer housing (that holds the sensor) can rotate - but I did mark on the block the original location so I can install it in the same place.
The engine will always stop close of one of the compression points (most resistance) - looks like in my case is close to #1.
The adjustment I don't think is THAT critical - on the carburated engines in that place was the distribuitor. And I could adjust the timing advance by hand rotating the distribuitor fairly generous.

 

[SoNic67]

Update. I had installed the new syncronizer.

No more that loud ticking noise at idle, pressure doesn't fluctuate anymore at warm idle... is better than before - double. It doesn't look much (8 versus 4 PSI), but now I don't have the needle in the dashboard hitting the stopper when I am at stoplight in "D". I still hear some noises, but... definitely that shaft "female" connector (1/4") was worn and was slipping at warm...
The new shaft, stamped "Ford", doesn't have the gear treated anymore (greenish color from phosphating) - it is just a black gear.
Didn't use the alingment tool. I just pushed in the center with the flag in approx same position as original (it didn't match perfectly) and then adjusted the sensor holder to match ass good as I could the original relative position to the flag. The whole think is rotated a few degree, but the sensor is aligned with the flag identicall. Or as best I could do by eye Engine runs well.

Below is the old part (hard to focus on that slick oil surface):

So, I would say that was a success, even if partially - I was hoping for a bigger increase in pressure. I would drive it more those days and see how it acts.
Thanks to all that posted here...