Oil Questions

[Ranger379]

hey guys, had a couple questions on what oil i should be using. this is only my second time changing my oil. last time i had it done at walmart cause when i bought it the oil was black and there was no sticker as to when the oil needed changed (think the dealer took it off b/c it was so far over due) walmart used penzoil high mileage (114k on it) the place i have always went to uses pennsoil. i searched and found thats most ppl switch to synthetic when the motor is still new, whould it hurt to switch now? should i just stick with regualr oil or hi mi. or should i use truck/suv oil ? thanks for any comments!

edit: also changing all the other fluids as well since the last guy never changed anything lol. still dont understand why someone could abuse such a good truck

 

[trucku]

Won't hurt to switch to Syns at high mileage. I changed all of my fluids to syns. Power steering, transfer case and front axle so far. Rear axles already ran syns. I just changed it and added Fords friction modifier. Do some complete reading on synthetics. Different people follow different methods. Fill your head with the information and you will be fine.
Since your oil was so black, even after a synthetic switch " I would" do a change soon after. That way the for the next fill you will have a nice clean internals from the synthetics cleaning. Then you can start your change filter and top off.
I like mobil1. Next is my tranny.

 

[UtahX]

I would switch over to Mobil 1.

 

[aldive]

By all means switch to full synthetic, not a blend.

I use Amsoil, however, Mobil 1 is also excellent.

When you change the other fluids, also, go synthetic.

Good luck .......

 

[south59]

I've switched 3 explorers with over 100,000 miles to full synthetics and have never had a problem. Mobil 1 is your best bet.

 

[ma96782]

You could read this stuff and be way ahead, of the "average joe" in oil knowledge:


If you like reading about oil filters:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

And here is something on oil brands:

http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/OilFAQ.html

And if you’re wondering about Wal Mart oil and filters (read about ½ way down):

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

And if you really like reading:

http://www.shoclub.com/lubrication-oil/lubrication-oilpart1.htm


Aloha, Mark

 

[Abom]

That said, your engine is at higher mileage.

The problem with synthetic oils is that the molecules are smaller and identicle in size when compared to fossile-fuel based oils. If your engine burns oil, leaks oil, or anything like that, even a tiny bit, synthetic oil will make it a whole lot worse.

I had a Cavalier once, 2.4L Twin Cam, ran fine on regular dyno oil. Every 5000km it burned about 1/4 liter of oil, not much at all. After switching to synthetic, it began burning 1 liter of oil every 2000km. About 20 000km later, the engine quit on me.

I am a firm believer of synthetic oils and their benefits over regular oils. However, I am also a firm believe that an engine that's over 100 000km (60k miles) won't take well to a synthetic change-over.

 

[aldive]

I am also a firm believe that an engine that's over 100 000km (60k miles) won't take well to a synthetic change-over.

I have seen lots of motors with over 100k miles on them switch to synthetic with no problems.

 

[Ranger379]

ya i have heard the same thing that since there is build up in the old engine the synthetic can break some of that build up loose and then u have all the crud running around in your engine which can cause something to break. still kidan iffy on what to use. i guess its the luck of wheather or not it messes anything up lol. i know the last guy didnt take care of it so there is pry alot of crud in it, what about flushing the engine before the switch ?

 

[snoborder42]

I run Castrol GTX High Mileage 10w-30. I tried the synthetic blend SUV stuff, I didn't notice any difference in idle, mileage, or anything else between the synthetic blend and high mileage stuff. But I did notice with the high mileage oil, I am loosing less in between oil changes.

 

[Ranger379]

well i got my fluids changed yesterday at the local Pennzoil. used truck and suv 5W30. also got the tranny, t-case, and diffs changed too. transmission got Dexron III/Mercon ATF. front diff got Synthetic 75W90. the odd thing is after i wrote the check out the guy said, o and we where un able to change the rear differential fluid b/c we couldnt get the plug out. the plug is rusted it to badly. the only thing u can do is take it to a machine shop (told me of one close) and have them heat it up and take it out that way, but make sure u take a new plug with you. guess ill go to ford and have them do it. dont think ill be going back to that place.... i will be switching to all syntheics the next time around thanks for the help

 

[Ranger379]

how would i get that plug out by the way? soak it in PB Blaster and if that dont work try an impact? where is the plug anyway? havent really looked, i wish it was in the cover cause im sure its in a nice spot u probably cant get a big ratchet or impact lol. thanks

 

[LMedina]

Aloha My Friend - you needn't worry about your rig's high mileage before switching to synthetic. What I would do in your situation though is to pour some motor flush in with the current oil and run the engine for about 5-10mn before draining it. Then pour in 5qts of 5w-30 Mobil1 Extended Performance, Pennsoil Platinum, or Mobil1 regular syn (my preferences, in that order) and either a Motorcraft or Fram X2 oil filter (also my preferences in that order). Both can be picked up at Walmart for real cheap.

NOW...I would then drive normally for a month, THEN CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER AGAIN. Pour motor flush again in there too; same procedure as above before draining everything. See, without knowing when the oil was last changed, assume the worst and figure there must be a lot of junk still left in the engine even after the motor flush. The new oil and filter will help to "wash out," trap and suspend any junk that was still left after flushing/draining the old oil. Now that second oil/filter change will serve you well: if you go with Mobil1 Extended Performance and Fram X2 filters, you can go up to 15,000 miles and 7,000 miles before changing the oil and filter, respectively. Mahalo //Larry M

 

[Ranger379]

sounds like a good idea i dont usually change my own oil so i will just dump in some engine flush before i take it to be changed the place i usually go to has a Gumout Engine flush service for 35 bucks would that be the same thing your telling me to do or some thing else? what kind of engine flush do u reccomend ?

 

[BrooklynBay]

The thinner the oil, the easier the engine will work (but will sound a little on the noisy side). With this in mind, if you use a thinner oil, your gas mileage will be a little better. Thinner oils are recommended in the winter time to help the oil circulate better.

 

[ma96782]

sounds like a good idea i dont usually change my own oil so i will just dump in some engine flush before i take it to be changed the place i usually go to has a Gumout Engine flush service for 35 bucks would that be the same thing your telling me to do or some thing else? what kind of engine flush do u reccomend ?

Save the $35..........go to the auto parts place, get the motor flush, read directions...............usually says pour in and drive (not freeway & hi-revs) for 10 min or so............(if you are not DIY) take it down to the oil change place (10 mins away)....................and get r done.

There is another thread where some folks say use ATF w/ your oil............IMHO.............perhaps, as a "flush".............NOT as a replacement for 1 qt of oil, w/ change.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165117

Aloha, Mark

 

[Abom]

I have seen lots of motors with over 100k miles on them switch to synthetic with no problems.

Fair enough, and I've seen people do it too. None the less, the 3 times I've tried it (on 3 seperate cars), the engine began burning oil within 10k. Personally, I'm not a fan of switching to synthetic oil on older engines.

 

[302Xplorer]

Fair enough, and I've seen people do it too. None the less, the 3 times I've tried it (on 3 seperate cars), the engine began burning oil within 10k. Personally, I'm not a fan of switching to synthetic oil on older engines.

In those cases in which a leak occurs after the use of synth, the culprit is most likely a pre-existing problem w/ the engine exposed by the more powerful cleaning agents present in synths.

 

[old mechanic]

If you have a pre existing leak it will get WORSE using synthetic oil. If you have no leaks, with the synthetics they may find a leak that wasn't leaking before with dino oil.
Been there done that many times when customers insisted on full synthetics. I do not reccomend any additives in motor or especially the transmission. Additives some times work too good leaving all that it cleaned to roam around looking for a nice tiny area to go into and clog. The most important thing is to change the oil and filter regulary no matter what brand oil or filter you use. This pertains to high mileage motors with 80,000+ miles on the clock and trannies with 70,000+ miles that have never been changed before.
If you change the trannie fluid and filter just drain whats in the bottom pan and change the filter. Do this about 3 times about every 5,000 miles and your trannie fluid will be clean without disturbing any particles.

 

[ma96782]

Or a heavier weight oil may be needed.

In a properly running engine with a properly functioning cooling system, it doesn't matter if you are driving in sub-zero temperature or 100 degree heat. The design of the cooling system will cause the engine & coolant, and therefore the oil to operate at whatever temperature it was designed to operate at. So what I'm saying is that the first number is critical in terms of climate. That is why the W (winter) designation is put after the first number, not at the end. The second number has almost no correlation to ambient temperature, only the regulated temperature of the engine.

A little trial and error will tell you exactly what weight of oil will best work in your car. For the first 500 or so miles after a fresh oil and filter change, the most volatile compounds of the motor oil will 'volitize' (boil off). This relatively rapid oil consumption will then taper off into the norm for that engine. So just top it off after 300-500 miles and then start the test:
Make sure that the oil is exactly on the full mark of your dipstick at the beginning of the test.
Check it at 500 miles, 1,000 miles and again at 1,500 miles.
Do not top it off at any time unless it falls dangerously low. (1 quart or more).
If you find that your engine is using oil at a faster rate than normal (1 quart/3,000 miles), then try using an oil with 10 viscosity points higher in the second number. As an example: start with 10W-30, and at 500 miles top it off. If 1,000 miles later you are a quart or half a quart low, record it and continue with the test. At 3,000 miles, if you have had to add more than a quart counting from the first 500 mile top-off, then you should use 10W-40 on the succeeding oil change.

Record your results again. If the 10W-40 does not volatize as readily then you should stick with that. However, if it still burns away, then try 20W-50. But, if the 10W-30 does NOT burn off too rapidly, then you should stick with that. No need to put thicker oil in if its serves no purpose right?

Of course, this is all assuming that your engine is in fairly sound operating condition. If your engine has worn or bad rings, or worn valve guides this test will not be conclusive.

Aloha,Mark