old guy, wife said get a hobby, 94 explorer

[shucker1]

i changed out the oil pressure sensor and that fixed that. the guage stays up on the high side of normal now, much more reasuring than not working.

Good Deal. Nice to ave a working oil pressure gauge.

I did see a fuse panel under the dash and one in the engine bay guess those may be a logical place to start?

Well that would be a good place to start. Actually it's a voltage meter but let's not pick semantics.

You might try looking really close at the battery connections and the connector on the back of the alternator to make sure they are clean and tight without anything being burned off.

Chris

 

[jmczzz]

Forgive me for being forward.

What was your profession before you retired?

We will have a better idea as to where to start helping.

That's what we are her for!

school teacher, but I have loved cars from childhood, have done shade tree stuff on a 39 Ford coup, 850 fiat, Several ford 1/2 tons, built a 70s 351W in a mercury between divorces 30 yrs ago. and several Escorts. my current daily is a 93 Base Escort 5 speed 1.9L 2 door coup.

Good Deal. Nice to ave a working oil pressure gauge.



Well that would be a good place to start. Actually it's a voltage meter but let's not pick semantics.

You might try looking really close at the battery connections and the connector on the back of the alternator to make sure they are clean and tight without anything being burned off.

Chris

dash voltage gauge was working ok before today, it did read a bit on the high side but then it just quit and dropped way over to low side.

 

[jmczzz]

school teacher, but I have loved cars from childhood, have done shade tree stuff on a 39 Ford coup, 850 fiat, Several ford 1/2 tons, built a 70s 351W in a mercury between divorces 30 yrs ago. and several Escorts. my current daily is a 93 Base Escort 5 speed 1.9L 2 door coup.


dash voltage gauge was working ok before today, it did read a bit on the high side but then it just quit and dropped way over to low side.

this morning the volt meter gauge was working again. it has a mind of its own, lose connection, or ghost?

 

[410Fortune]

Is the battery light on? When the gauge drops out see if the red battery light comes on
This points to a weak/non operating alternator / voltage regulator

Check/service all battery terminals and ground wire connections
Check wires at alternator
Use a multimeter to check battery voltage then check voltage at battery with engine running.
Battery should hold 12.0V or higher, and with truck running at idle you should have 13.8-14.4V from the alternator.

 

[jmczzz]

Is the battery light on?

i confess i don't know where that is, but i didn't notice it. is it in the gauge or on when the key is on before cranking?

 

[shucker1]

Key on before cranking should make it light up.

Looks like a little RED battery symbol.

 

[jmczzz]

Key on before cranking should make it light up.

Looks like a little RED battery symbol.

i'llhave to check it again and report back. but it cranked right up seemed bat was strong.

 

[jmczzz]

new problem; this afternoon after a short ride the "check engine" light came on. what kind of reader do I need to read the code? a 94 v6 explorer? thanks, jmc

 

[Mr. Alligator]

Your wife is wise. She sure got you going on a hobby. Have fun! And be safe.

 

[jmczzz]

new problem; this afternoon after a short ride the "check engine" light came on. what kind of reader do I need to read the code? a 94 v6 explorer? thanks, jmc

found this one with search, is it a good choice? searched fourm fond this reference then a search on line found this;

Equus Innova 3145 Digital Ford Code Reader EPI3145

Equus 3145 EEC-IV code reader

• Shipping Weight: 1lbs
• Manufactured by: Equus Products
• Toolsource #: 93012
• Manufacturers Part #: 3145
• Also Known As: EPI3145, EQ3145, INN-3145

We have 10 in stock

Inventory available from other suppliers, prices may be different

Write Review
List Price: $39.00
You save: $15.68
$23.32

 

[Albino 94LTD]

That looks lime the one i have. Should be good enough.

 

[jmczzz]

That looks lime the one i have. Should be good enough.

thank you, i'll order it, jmczzz

 

[imp]

@jmczzz That reader is likely adequate for OBD-I diagnostic level, which was still in effect for 5.0L engines in '94. However, I think, note THINK, OBD-II was introduced in '94 with the V-6 engines. If so, the data ports where the code readers plug in are different. Also, OBD-I was simpler and had fewer added jingles like transmission codes and chassis codes. Unless you have already ordered, you may want to reconsider and buy a high-class reader specifically listed to read "CAN code protocol", which includes ABS codes, also. imp

 

[Albino 94LTD]

No 5.0L in 94. And 94 is OBD1.

It will come with a book to tell what the codes mean but not what parts are at fault or how to fix (or where those parts are) so post up the codes (if there are any) and we will help identify and suggest repairs.

 

[imp]

No 5.0L in 94. And 94 is OBD1.
It will come with a book to tell what the codes mean but not what parts are at fault or how to fix (or where those parts are) so post up the codes (if there are any) and we will help identify and suggest repairs.

@Albino 94LTD
If you mean there WAS no 5.0L in '94, I happen to drive one. The 5.0L HO was offered in Mustangs in '94 and '95, first two years of the SN95 Platform, in '96 the 5.0 was dropped. Ford had a huge number of '95 5.0L engines stockpiled, and sold them under Motorsports or whatever they called the SVO group until they were all gone. I bought 6 of them. The '94 and '95 5.0 were indeed OBD-I. However, the 3.8L V-6 was OBD-II. imp

Ford Mustang GT Gasoline (290 HP) 1996 PWM J1850 .....THIS IS OBD-II PROTOCOL
See: http://www.runtek.it/FORD _OBD.pdf

 

[bammbamm]

This may be correct for mustang's, but we are in the stock 91-94 explorer forum. There was never a 5.0l explorer offered in these years. They also retained obd-1 until 96.

 

[jmczzz]

@jmczzz That reader is likely adequate for OBD-I diagnostic level, which was still in effect for 5.0L engines in '94. However, I think, note THINK, OBD-II was introduced in '94 with the V-6 engines. If so, the data ports where the code readers plug in are different. Also, OBD-I was simpler and had fewer added jingles like transmission codes and chassis codes. Unless you have already ordered, you may want to reconsider and buy a high-class reader specifically listed to read "CAN code protocol", which includes ABS codes, also. imp

haven't ordered it yet. waiting on more info like yours. thanks. but now i need to make sure i know what is the correct rader. isn't the type you suggest a lot more expensive?
Can anybody else help clear this up? thank you, jmczzz

 

[410Fortune]

That reader will work, however with a 94 Explorer you do not even need a reader you can retrieve your trouble codes with a paper clip

1986-94 Ranger/Explorer and Ranger are OBD-I and you basically jumper two wires together at the diagnostics port under the hood and the CEL will begin to flash, you need to count the flashes and write them down, this will be a series of numbers or codes..... That's the basics
The reader you are looking at will take out the guesswork and help with that project. Although it is a good idea to learn how to do it with the paper clip:

 

[jmczzz]

I looked for trouble code plug near the brake master cylinder. I think I found it. i did not find an additional code plug under the dash. I looked carefully under the drivers side of the under dash area around and both sides of the steering column where the code plug on wife's Ford Focus is located. I did see fuse panel connectors from wire harness from engine compartment.

I do not see a red battery light near the check engine area when i just turn key on before starting. After starting the Check engine light was not on, apparently overnight it went off.

I started and ran engine for a while to warm it up, then noticed when i raised engine rpms with throttle (excellerator) when it hit 4 k rpm the engine would surge like it was cutting out / restarting intermittently. i did repeat the process of raising the rpms from idle approx 800 - 900 rpm in a slow steady increase pressing throttle. at precisly the same point, 4 000 rpm, the engine would again cut out drop down then re-rev on its on if i held the trottle in the same position where it first reached 4 k rpm. i also noticed a red line at 5 k rpm and at 6 k rpm on the tac dial.

i watched the oil pressure gauge would drop off in unison with the engine drop off,
the bat and temp gauges flickered but stayed more or less the same. after a few times getting the 4 k engine surge the check engine light came on again.
oddly the passenger map dome lights magically started working where as before they would not turn on.

QUESTIONS****************
1. my conclusion valid, perhaps shorts or bad connections in the wiring harness?
2. is there a rev limiter (govenor) in the engine automatic controls causing the engine surge?
3. is there a spray chemical that can be used to clean the contacts on the many connectors in the harness, methodically unplug them, spray, wipe out with swabs, reconnect, restoration operation?
4. any way to positively identify a diagnostic code plug as obd-l or obd-ll?

thank you all for your expert assistance. jmczzz

 

[massacre]

My diagnostic plug is on pass side near fender/firewall near heater motor/box.