oom12 kit before timing chain problems | Ford Explorer Forums

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oom12 kit before timing chain problems

Explorerman2

Active Member
Joined
November 17, 2006
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City, State
Brighton Sussex
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 Explorer
Luckily I do not have the dreaded timing chain problem yet (now 63k miles), but do have an oom12 kit- pessimist that I am.

What's the best advice on fitting it ahead of any problems. Good or bad idea?

What mileage have members reached before the chain starts rattling?

Thanks guys!
 



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I would say get it fitted. There is no advantage to not doing so. The kit replaces the upper and lower seals on the inlet manifold. This will help a smooth idle and better cold starts. The revised tensioner will do no harm and may reduce problems in the future.
 






Do it, the kit adds a check valve for the front cam chain tensioner, which needs it. The lower intake gaskets are not part of the kit, but do check the lower bolts to be sure that they are snug enough.

Do also replace the rear cam chain tensioner, both of them are not high mileage capable. The rear is about $25 here, and it takes about 30 minutes to change yourself. Good luck,
 






I got lower gaskits and upper gaskits, the check valve, the replacment screw cover for check valve,the revised, longer tensioner and washer in the kit. I cant see a reason NOT to do this job, it is easy if you are used to working on cars and has no downside.
Do it mate!
 






where do i get oom12 kit from....cheers
 






E Bay and Austria

Mine was on E Bay and came from Austria where another posting directed me. I can't help but think there must be some closer to home. However it was delivered to my door after about 2 weeks and has remained unused ready to fit
 






That 00M12 kit was about $40 three years ago, it should be in stock at any Ford dealer.

FYI, if you get into that task, be very careful around the Thermostat Housing. It is very fragile(it's plastic), and the sensors in it are somewhat in the way. Do not ever try to loosen those sensors in the TH, the TH is usually ruined, and costs $250. Take that TH off if you have to use a socket to loosen the front outer tensioner. Regards,
 






comment on removing so-called TH sensors

hey CDW (Don) , Have I ever learned a lot from you. Thankyou for your sharing. I am impressed that you would suggest removal of the TH housing rather than removing temp ECT sensor as is supposedly needed (for clearance) to do the "om12" job.

I did try removing the sender for the gage (1998 sohc). No gage reading. It just caused the metal housing ring to spin (but no sensor unscrew). It does not leak (yet). housing relocation/removal - tho a pain - gets om12 done but still no gage.
 






Glad to help. There have been other members who learned about the thermostat housing the hard way. I didn't remove mine but just barely was able to work around it. It was later that I learned how much that TH costs from Ford.

Try some Permatex Ultra RTV to seal things like that if you can get it in there. The best RTV's may last a lifetime. Night,
 






therm housing sender tip

Don or others

while I fumbled around the shop last weekend looking for a substitute to a 3/4 inch or 19mm crows foot wrench to loosen my temp sender on top of the t-housing I found no substitute with the intakes off my sohc 4.0. with the crows foot purchased in hand (as I said above ) i still could not loosen it.

alternate tool for all of you...
try a sink faucet wrench (few guys have them??. they have a swivel head and could do crows foot duty for many sizes of wrenches. cool huh?
 






0m12 tensioner washer question

copied from another thread explaining sohc om12 kit install

Bought a new gasket/washer this morning. I have noticed that the washer has a "bevel" or dome to it. The inner edge of the waser is at a different plane from the outer edge. There seemed to be liitle knowledge at the dealership as to which way this should correctly be installed on the tensioner. Should the high inner part of the washer be against the steel head of the tensioner or should the washer be reversed leaving the high outer edge of the washer against the steel head of the tensioner?

I do not vouch for the significance of this quote above but if it points to a question whereby if the washer is installed wrong, a bad oil leaks developes...
.. I (we) would benifit from a clarification.
 






I didn't see any issue with those washers. The shape of the tensioner and the head would determine the orientation. The torque of the tensioners is 42lbs.ft, and those washers are crushed very well. I doubt a leak there is likely.
 






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