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Opinions on Setting Up my System

JT

Well-Known Member
Joined
July 3, 2000
Messages
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City, State
Fall River, MA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT Control Trac
I am about to do some major work on my truck audio system. Right now i have a Pioneer DEPH-2000 CD/Radio Head Unit 45wX4 with the Super Tuner.
I am looking to keep the cargo space free of any type of box. So i know the JL Stealth Box is the way to go. As far as an amp goes what route should i take? I am going to replace all the door speakers from factory to something from JL probably the JL 5X7's . I also want to do component tweeters in the front. Anyone have any opinions on this setup? Am i taking the right steps. I am not looking for drowning bass, but more at a comfortable level, but i like to have the power there so when i do feel like turning the volume up the punch is there :-)



Thanks for any help you provide,
JT
1996 XLT Control Trac
 



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aight, i JUST installed my amp last nite. took FOREVER!!! i mounted the power cable up the left side of the car. so from the firewall, i strung the power cable through a floor vent cause there is just too much stuff in that center console area... goin down the side, i had to take out the plastic lining, and i pulled the carpet back a few inches to get to this plastic track where some cables are being strung. i just pryed open the track and shoved teh power cables down the length and wired it to my amp... for the RCA cables, i did exactly the same thing, but on the other side of the car. as you may know, you shouldnt run the power cable near the RCAs as interference may occur. also, its okay for the wires to physically cross paths, but i heard its only good to do just once. if where you are placing the amp happens to have the wires cross twice, just switch around how you lay the wire out... you should do a test wiring and simply lay the wiring down on top of the carpet to give you a good idea of how much wire you are gona need before you actually wire it. learned the hard way... i have one problem though. my amplifier will not turn on. i know its with the REMOTE turn-on lead... but, oh well, i'll save it for a different post.
 












The amp is just what supply's the power. You can tap into the speaker wire for the door speakers to run the tweeters because they do not take that much power. You can also get a small output amp... i know Radio Shack sells tiny amp for really good prices.

A lot of speakers come with a tweeter built into it. I am looking at some 6x8 pioneers w/ a tweeter. Good price too. The JL's will probably sounds better, but I don't want to spend too much. Did you consider 6x8's? The stealth box is a great box. MXT and Q-Logic make a box to fit in the place of the storage net wiich you can fit either an 8 or 10. Like huidaddy said, run the wires on opposite sides than the power wires. If you don't you may get feedback through your speakers. Like when you hit the gas you'll hear a buzzing or hissing. One of my friends did this, and it was the most annoying sound.

HuiDaddy, did you run the remote lead into the corrcet wire? It should be the blue w/ the white stripe on the back of the deck. I know one person where this wasn't the case though, so he had to run it into the fuse box.

Chris
 






Thanks!

2dr/2wd 96 sprt.

Thank you! I went to a big name store and they tried to sell me a 4-channel $250 amp, $550 double din stereo, two pairs of $200 speakers, etc...(no sale!) I bought the $99 Kenwood w/cd controls and a Kenwood 10 disk cd changer. I am also replacing the four speakers, because the stock speakers are a little muffled sounding. Thanks again!
 






A amp is absolutely necessary when adding aftermarket speakers stock stereo even premium stereo are full of distortion and clipped signals. And running a sub off a deck is just plain stupid. You'll defently be the laughing stock of the city running a sub without a amp and you'll be the luaghing stock of the people with decent stereos not having a amp to power compents or coaxs. (speakers) A 4 5 or 6 channel is a good begginer amp. This way you stereo will sound distributed properly. Not like the kids with a 1000 watts to two twelves and running 6x9 off the deck. Another thing to remember is fight the force, don't get 6x9 or and other unround speakers 5x7 4x10 4x6 6x8 ect... I would even try to stay away from "plate speakers" the ones with like 4 and a tweeter the mount in weird holes like the explores have. Componet sets are another thing that are good to get at any level because you will have the right sound coming out of your speakers. no bass coming from your tweeters no highs coming from your subs ect... you might want to try this link if it still works http://www.eatel.net/~pbabin/elecdisc/caraudio.htm or goto SOUNDDOMAIN.COM or CARAUDIOFORUM.COM or TERMPRO.COM these are all great places to learn more. Car audio gets very technical but it is worth it not to have a $h¡ty sounding stereo. Sorry for taking so long and my crappy spelling
(just sound it out) :)
 






Thanks!

I'm comparing prices on amps and an 8" sub. This is what happens to first-time upgraders, everyone wants to sell us the most expensive vs what we want. Thanks for the help!
 






Amp Sub combo

Last question about this. I went with the Pioneer A6865 6x8's on all corners, they sound great and I avoid cutting for tweeters. I'd like to get the 8" Pioneer sub, but should the amp be a Pioneer like the speakers or a Kenwood like the head unit? Thanks in advance!
 






You don't have to have matching brands for the average head unit to amp, or speakers to amp. Brand matching is usually reserved for super high-end stuff, so go with what you want, Kenwood, Pioneer or anything else. Remember, you're trying to look to match the RMS/Continuous power levels, NOT the peak power.

Jon
 






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