P0174 v8

[Kidd7]

To follow up. I bought the 2nd O2 sensor shortly after I bought the first knowing it's going to die soon. Well I drug my feet and it died this week. So during a rain storm today I replaced O2 bank 1. Using Turdle's instructions on removing the center console was very straight forward and surprisingly easy, once the access panel is removed it's pretty easy to get to everything. It took about 20m of banging on the console with a 2 lb sledge for it to slide all the way back and multiple extensions on my O2 crow's foot to break that loose. But relatively easy overall.

I had a full console I scavenged from our wrecked Ex that was in pieces and having this console out I used it as a map to put the scavenged one back together. Now on my to do list is to replace the small arm rest with this full console on my daughters Ex.

Thanks all.

 

[Kidd7]

The ABS light came on today, codes point to the rear sensor, does the wiring run near the O2? May I have jarred something loose while working in there?

 

[J_C]

^ Maybe, but it seems like if it happened due to the repair, would have caused the light to come on right away, on the first drive unless you just didn't notice the light coming on, -OR- random coincidence that the wire was damaged from road debris, or all these years and the sensor housing failed, or your rear differential is chewing itself up and flinging metal particles on it or the tone ring it senses.

Using a multimeter with long probe wires, you can check resistance between the two wires at the sensor, and their respective other ends at the ABS controller (same wire colors, pins #1 lt green/black & 17 red/pink)... and that neither is shorted to ground. Sensor itself, rear should measure (very roughly) 1kΩ. As old as it is, it (sensor itself) might self destruct if you try to remove it.

 

[Kidd7]

I measure an open at the connector to the ABS module. Next step is to measure the continuity of the wires from said module to the rear axle, not able to do that tonight, hopefully tomorrow.

 

[Kidd7]

The wiring is good, the sensor is open. So I need to get one on order. This is the connector pinout I found:

 

[J_C]

^ I have that pinout as well. The wire colors match but the pin #s do not match my wiring diagram. Either I am cross-eyed or cannot explain that, why that wiring diagram is wrong. That pinout does match the different, Helms diagram I have:

Either way, sure, it is a simple inductive coil sensor so if it measures open instead of (very roughly) ~1k resistance, there's your problem, either the coil in it is broken, or the connector so corroded that you can't get electrical conduction.

 

[Kidd7]

Not sure the discrepancy either; I measured the resistance across each wire then shorted the rear connector at the axle to measure the resistance at the ABS controller connector. They are in fact pins 21 & 22. I'm not willing to pull the sensor w/o having a new one available just in case it breaks. Amazon has this one and should be delivered today, hoping to swap it out tonight: Amazon product ASIN B000CKNIFM
There is a lot of grime over the axle and surrounding area, it look like either the U-joint or pinion seal was leaking at some point, I've cleaned some up and will clean some more before I remove and replace this sensor.

Thanks for the help.

 

[C420sailor]

May not be a bad time to do your diff fluid if it’s about due. Those sensors often get stuck and break off, then you have to drive it out from the inside.

I’d at least have some ultra black and gear oil on hand

 

[Kidd7]

The new one measured ~2.1k; old one was in fact open. Replacement was pretty easy, although there is not enough room to see anything, had to go completely by feel. One bolt, twist the sensor side to side to "break" it loose and then wiggle back n forth with slight upward pressure until it pops out.