P2135 after TPS replacement

[stkelly]

So when it rains it pours. Just did all the timing on my truck and now the truck decided to turn off while driving.

I got the wrench a few days ago so I pulled the codes and got P2135. I replaced the TPS thinking that should fix the problem. Today the truck stopped accelerating and shut off while driving home. I got P2135 as a stored code and P2104 and P2112 as a pending code. I couldn't restart for 15 minutes, once restarted I was able to get home in limp home mode. Once home the two pending codes went away and P2135 was all that was stored.

I found a few reports that others had this issue and had bad wiring harnesses. But as far as I can see the wiring harness looks fine.

I disconnected the connector and see I get 4.87v on the bottom pin (pin 4), 5v (pin 3), GRND (pin2), so signal must be pin1.

Any suggestions on what to try next, or what the problem could be?

Thanks in advance!

 

[stkelly]

I investigated the throttle body more and see the butterfly is snapping shut when I get very close to almost having my foot off the gas pedal. Seems like motor and throttle position sensor is out of sync. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset the idle position, but that didn't make a difference. The motor seems to run fine after that snap so maybe I have a bad TPS.

 

[stkelly]

Since the TPS didn't fix the problem, I completely replaced the entire throttle body with a remanufactured CARDONE one. After about 500 miles the truck started shuttering and threw the wrench again. P2135 again...

I'm really at a loss as to what the problem could be. I checked the TPS cable and it looked fine as far as I could trace it. It seems strange that it always happens after about 500 miles. It's like the computer tries to use its learned values and can't control the throttle.

Does anyone know the exact values of the 4 pins and how to properly check the cable for issues? I've found testing procedures for the 3 pin TPS but limited information on the 4.6L 4 pin.

Any advice or suggestions would be great.

Thanks!

 

[stkelly]

I've finally had a chance to bring the truck to the dealer. Of course the truck isn't currently acting up so they can't find anything wrong. Nothing is stored in the computer and they say it drives fine.

At this point I may try another throttle body. If that doesn't work maybe it's the PCM/ECM. But if the ECM/PCM was bad wouldn't other things be affected?

Any suggestions would be great.

 

[stkelly]

I replaced the throttle body with a brand new Ford throttle body, bought from a dealer. After 600 miles the truck went into limp home mode again, orange wrench with check engine light. Since the truck didn't shut off I brought the truck to the dealer with the check engine light on. P2135 was stored again. It's definitely not the throttle body.

The dealer diagnosed the problem more closely this time and said the random limp home was due to the ignition system interfering with the throttle body signal. They said the truck needed two new capacitors, main wiring harness and all new COPs. All of this was around $3,200. So I took the truck back home and put back in my OEM COPs (I had the yellow ACCEL COPs in.) I've had the ACCEL COPs in since 63K miles. I'm going to install the new Ford capacitors this evening.

Replacing the main wiring harness seems like a real PITA. It goes all over the place in the engine bay. I'd really like to avoid replacing the harness if it isn't required. The dealer wasn't 100% sure this would fix the issue.

Has anyone else had an issue with a persistent limp home mode? It reliably happens approximately 500 miles after the code is cleared.

I truly am stumped and would greatly appreciate if anyone has any suggestions as to what else to check or could be causing this.

Thanks

 

[Butch-Explorer]

I too had the exact thing happen earlier this year i mess with the harness and it has been gone for 3000 miles so far. I have the Ford service CD and did all test and it showed bad harness connection. But like i said im lucky its been good

 

[stkelly]

I too had the exact thing happen earlier this year i mess with the harness and it has been gone for 3000 miles so far. I have the Ford service CD and did all test and it showed bad harness connection. But like i said im lucky its been good

Thanks for the information. Any chance you can send or post the harness test procedure? I'd like to test it myself and see if it truly is the harness. If so, I'll probably break down and put a new one in.

Thanks.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Aftermarket ignition coils were my issue as well:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...unication-errors-u0101-u1900-solution.438414/

 

[stkelly]

Thanks for the information! That link was really helpful.

I just got to 740 miles and the wrench came back on again. This is the furthest I've gone in a while without the wrench showing up in a while. So going back to the OEM COPs seemed to help. The last two times the wrench appeared was when the truck was placed in reverse and I started to accelerate.

At this point it must be interference on the main wiring harness. I've moved the harness away from the COPs the best I can. I may try to wrap the harness in shielding tape to further isolate it.

What a frustrating problem!

 

[stkelly]

I've shielded all the wires around the COPs. I'm still getting the random P2135. Today the truck just shut off immediately after starting. 2135 was pending.

So all I've replaced/tried:
COPs - OEM
Suppression capacitors
Gas pedal
Throttle body (complete unit)
Shielded harness wires
Moved harness away from COPs the best I can.

All parts are OEM from a dealer.

Besides replacing the wire harness and maybe the ECU I'm really out of ideas. Has anyone else had a problem with just one system and have the problem be the ECU/PCM? I'm thinking the ECU is the next item to be replaced.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ng07exglenn]

I've shielded all the wires around the COPs. I'm still getting the random P2135. Today the truck just shut off immediately after starting. 2135 was pending.

So all I've replaced/tried:
COPs - OEM
Suppression capacitors
Gas pedal
Throttle body (complete unit)
Shielded harness wires
Moved harness away from COPs the best I can.

All parts are OEM from a dealer.

Besides replacing the wire harness and maybe the ECU I'm really out of ideas. Has anyone else had a problem with just one system and have the problem be the ECU/PCM? I'm thinking the ECU is the next item to be replaced.

Thanks in advance!

Did you ever figure out the issues, just purchased my 2007 4.6l and tried most of what you listed above.
2TPS sensors
Total throttle body
Gas pedal.
Haven’t tried the COPs yet.
I cut back the wire harness to see if there was an exposed wire, but no luck.

Thanks,
Nick

 

[imp]

Did you ever figure out the issues, just purchased my 2007 4.6l and tried most of what you listed above.
2TPS sensors
Total throttle body
Gas pedal.
Haven’t tried the COPs yet.
I cut back the wire harness to see if there was an exposed wire, but no luck.

Thanks,
Nick

@ng07exglenn
Been around the block with this on my '04, and replacing TB finally fixed it, but I also had a dead main chip in the ABS Module, so those two fighting dtc's all the time almost drove me nuts!

If you can get complete wiring diagrams, and understand them, if it were me, I would snip off all the wires leading to the TB, including the TPS, and solder in new wires routed to where ever they go, snip off the harness wires there, and thereby completely eliminate the harness and all connectors from the picture. If that fixes it, OK, mess with harness replacement, if you want. If it doesn't fix it, you saved a bundle of dough, and go look at PCM itself. Good luck! imp

 

[Butch-Explorer]

My 2006 Ex Limited 4.6 turn out to be the wiring connection at the TB. The wires are kind of brittle from heat I guess. The 2 wires had to be separated and has been working ever since. About 2 years now.

 

[ng07exglenn]

Thanks for the prompt reply’s, I’ll have to look into the throttle body motor connector.

Butch-Explorer did you just separate the two cables and how far did you go into the driver side harness above the valve cover?

Imp I’ve been debating on the wire harness, I like your idea more for not having to purchase a new one. Wrecking near me wants about $123 for one. Looks like a PITA to install possibly, Did you receive any codes from your ABS module chip? Just figure I should check that too.

I have done a thermostat, the bypass “Y” hose from Dorman with the metal fitting for the rear heater core, overflow bottle and chasing my tail on this P2135- I saw p2104 and P2111 pending before the P2135 went mil. This rig came with an extensive carfax and the MAF and TB are new but not listed on the car fax, I hesitated replacing the TPS because of that so I started with the gas pedal.

Thanks again!
-nick

 

[Beachcomber86]

FYI! Many subtle errors will be fixed by repairing the wiring harness in these locations.

Found my ghosts in the machine

 

[imp]

Thanks for the prompt reply’s, I’ll have to look into the throttle body motor connector.

Butch-Explorer did you just separate the two cables and how far did you go into the driver side harness above the valve cover?

Imp I’ve been debating on the wire harness, I like your idea more for not having to purchase a new one. Wrecking near me wants about $123 for one. Looks like a PITA to install possibly, Did you receive any codes from your ABS module chip? Just figure I should check that too.

I have done a thermostat, the bypass “Y” hose from Dorman with the metal fitting for the rear heater core, overflow bottle and chasing my tail on this P2135- I saw p2104 and P2111 pending before the P2135 went mil. This rig came with an extensive carfax and the MAF and TB are new but not listed on the car fax, I hesitated replacing the TPS because of that so I started with the gas pedal.

Thanks again!
-nick

@ng07exglenn
Actually, I THOUGHT I had no ABS codes, mistakenly believing my reader could read them, as it did read transmission codes, but learned after much heartache, it could not. Bought an upgraded scanner, and and ABS code related to the R.F. Wheel Speed Sensor, which I replaced to no avail. I wound up buying a used ABS Module after The Module Guy sent it back "not repairable, dead main chip". Thing is, Ford uses those icons for many indications not related to the icon.

For example, a serious issue, like drive by wire TB screw-up, they will flash 4X4 HIGH, possibly 4X4 LOW, and in some cases light up ABS solid to boot, saying it's a serious safety issue, then the wrench, after which, look out, limp mode or worse. I got "Forced Engine Idle" once. Sigh of relief never "Forced Engine Shutdown", that one kills you in the water. imp

 

[ng07exglenn]

Update**

So I replaced a no name COP (used an Accel) on cylinder 4 in the back corner passenger side. My concern was it may possibly be interfering with the cables/wire harness back there giving me the P2135 code (since I’ve replaced everything 1-2 times already). It solved my issue and my explorer started to run great for a bit (no codes), then about a month later (oct-end of November) it started the shimmy at cruising speeds almost like the TC was going out. I had spark plugs on the agenda, when I was pulling my COP’s cylinder 4 back passenger corner (Accell coil) it was under water. My first thought was how in the heck did the water get into that cylnder ( heater hose, windshield washer injectors, etc) but there was a blue ring on the valve cover making windshield washer fluid the culprit. I found no leaks from the lines, boggled me for a few min.

I just looked around after running my windshield washer injectors and car for a bit after the spark plug install. **On a side note I followed the TSB and never broke one plug at all, thank goodness. But I noticed a little drip of water coming Into the engine bay slowly dripping on the PCM, it came from a hole in the gutter below the windsheild cowl. My assumption was that it dripped and ran down the firewall onto the valve cover. The hole was partially welded and is similar to the driver side to pin the wire harness which was from the windshield wiper motor. I ended up sealing this hole and will keep an eye on it. I live in eastern Washington state and it was pretty dry up till around thanks giving we received all this rain which led me to these issues which I believe is the ghost P2135 I have been chasing. I hope this is helpful to others.

Nick

 

[ng07exglenn]

Been some time and wanted to post some of my discoveries which maybe help others.

The water leaking, the source was actually the windshield washer sprayers. Yes then ones on the hood that are perfectly over your rear 2 cylinders, my mechanic doused the rig with a water hose and still couldn’t reproduce. Every time it rained my cylinders filled up, yes i tried replacing them. I used oem ordered straight from the nearest Ford dealer and they still leaked. Ended up using a clear RTV on it.

Now onto the P2135 code, that seemed to get the P2104 and P2111 codes to accompany it. I have replaced the following:
TPS sensor : 3 times
Gas pedal sensor: once
Throttle body: twice.
Cut back the wiring harness a good 1-2foot back and no frayed or damaged wires grounding or shorting out.
New plugs (motorcraft)
Tried accel coils, brought the codes one quicker just replaced all with motorcraft and still codes.

I was down to complete wire harness and or computer which was left. Tried to see if any pig tails existed, there is the TPS plug only. I cut and soldered on a new motorcraft pigtail. Bingo no more P2135, I danced for joy.

3 days later P420 catalyst, but I wanted to note all the stuff I tried to maybe save some time and money for another. The tps pig tail was about $30-35 on amazon :

• Motorcraft WPT1293 WIRE ASY

Thanks
Nick

 

[imp]

Been some time and wanted to post some of my discoveries which maybe help others.

The water leaking, the source was actually the windshield washer sprayers. Yes then ones on the hood that are perfectly over your rear 2 cylinders, my mechanic doused the rig with a water hose and still couldn’t reproduce. Every time it rained my cylinders filled up, yes i tried replacing them. I used oem ordered straight from the nearest Ford dealer and they still leaked. Ended up using a clear RTV on it.

Now onto the P2135 code, that seemed to get the P2104 and P2111 codes to accompany it. I have replaced the following:
TPS sensor : 3 times
Gas pedal sensor: once
Throttle body: twice.
Cut back the wiring harness a good 1-2foot back and no frayed or damaged wires grounding or shorting out.
New plugs (motorcraft)
Tried accel coils, brought the codes one quicker just replaced all with motorcraft and still codes.

I was down to complete wire harness and or computer which was left. Tried to see if any pig tails existed, there is the TPS plug only. I cut and soldered on a new motorcraft pigtail. Bingo no more P2135, I danced for joy.

3 days later P420 catalyst, but I wanted to note all the stuff I tried to maybe save some time and money for another. The tps pig tail was about $30-35 on amazon :

• Motorcraft WPT1293 WIRE ASY

Thanks
Nick

@ng07exglenn Nice splice job! Good soldering, good shrink tubing. I detailed just how the gas pedal/TPS combination was designed to work in Post #13, here:
Inexpensive Adjustable IAC

if you care to look. The more we can figure out about this stuff, the less likely we wind up needing a Dealer! imp