Parasitic Current Draw??

[buzzard73]

I'm having the same problem on my 04 Explorer. Got up one morning and the 3 month old battery was totally dead. Charged the battery and the ***** wouldn't start.

The PCM lost it's memory and I had to get a locksmith to come out and reprogram the PATS with a new key. 180.00

The nominal current draw should be no more than .050A. It has a .66A draw. Traced the draw to fuse [URL=http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=15]#15 [/URL] in the engine compartment. It's the Memory (PCM/DEAT/Cluster), Courtesy Lamps circuit.

Still looking for the problem. I'll let you know what I find.

Please do, I am having a similar problem, but my #15 blows out immediately. I found that an amp draw is going on all the time...just enough to cause a light tester to flicker. I noted that the red light in the center of the dash blinks with the test light hooked up, and once I disconnect the light tester, the light on the dash goes steady and slowly goes out. I do not have any other test equipment that a volt meter and a test light...I wonder if these problems are related?

 

[jp450]

You should not loose your PATS programming from a dead battery. I suspect the PCM is defective.

 

[Notey]

New guy without a profile yet. Had a 97 ranger PU for the airport. Always started even when it was -20F. Sometimes a month or more between starts. So unbelievable it became the family joke! Everything else started to go after 235K so I upgraded to a 2005 Explorer XLT.
Two weeks after I got the X, I returned to get it and it was stone dead. Keyless dead, had to slim Jim the door and jump it. Called the dealer to check it out. Battery/Charging Checked OK. "Must have left a light on".
Second time...three weeks, stone dead as before. So much for reliability!
The only thing the dealer has to offer is a battery disconnect switch so you can get under the hood (on a dark, wet, cold night) and re connect the battery to use your car. Oooo yeah, then I can reset the clock, and all my radio presets again.

I am considering:
1. Battery Disconnect (not my favorite idea)
2. Solar maintainer in the 2.5-5.0W range with protective circuitry for overcharge, etc.
3. Find another beat up Ranger PU.
Is pulling a fuse or two a reasonable option? It's still awfully inconvenient.

Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Notey]

Additional question...

Hello all,
Thought I would ask a related question to the post above. I leave the vehicle at the airport for transportation and frequently have 2-4 week periods of time between uses. The airport does not provide plug-ins, so that is not an option. The battery is frequently dead when I return. The dealer has tested the battery/charging system/vehicle (twice) at about .43mA parasitic draw when not in use.
As mentioned above, I am looking at a solar maintainer to place on the dash to periodically "refresh" the charge on the battery. The rated wattage of the panels I am considering is 2.5W or 5.0W. Both have overcharge/short circuit/overheat protective circuitry. There are ever larger wattage units available too.
My question is...Will these panels be sufficient to maintain a charge on the battery with a .43mA parasitic draw in the system? Even if the sun only shines 1/2 the days?
I'm NOT knowledgeable enough to know how to translate mAmps/Watts/volts, etc. and how they relate to each other. Is the 5.0W unit overkill? I have always had a tendency to think "bigger is better" but on this I'm not sure. I would appreciate input.
Thanks again.

 

[eeprete]

Hello all,
Thought I would ask a related question to the post above. I leave the vehicle at the airport for transportation and frequently have 2-4 week periods of time between uses. The airport does not provide plug-ins, so that is not an option. The battery is frequently dead when I return. The dealer has tested the battery/charging system/vehicle (twice) at about .43mA parasitic draw when not in use.
As mentioned above, I am looking at a solar maintainer to place on the dash to periodically "refresh" the charge on the battery. The rated wattage of the panels I am considering is 2.5W or 5.0W. Both have overcharge/short circuit/overheat protective circuitry. There are ever larger wattage units available too.
My question is...Will these panels be sufficient to maintain a charge on the battery with a .43mA parasitic draw in the system? Even if the sun only shines 1/2 the days?
I'm NOT knowledgeable enough to know how to translate mAmps/Watts/volts, etc. and how they relate to each other. Is the 5.0W unit overkill? I have always had a tendency to think "bigger is better" but on this I'm not sure. I would appreciate input.
Thanks again.

why not just disconnect the battery on those long trips?

 

[eeprete]

I did extensive testing with this very problem last spring. There is a significant draw that occurs for I believe it was appx 5 minutes after the door was closed, key off and out. Then the draw becomes minimal. I have come home three times last winter to dead batteries after being at work. Battery tests ok, and load tests ok, but when put under more significant tests it failed. It boils down to the fact that most places are selling us junk to start with. AAP, AZ etc are all average batteries at best.

 

[lincolnshibuya]

http://www.harborfreight.com/battery-disconnect-switch-97853.html

 

[Notey]

why not just disconnect the battery on those long trips?

As mentioned earlier, this is my least favorite option. Also, many times I don't know how long I'll be gone in advance.
My other frustration is that we have to discuss this issue at all! Why do the automakers design a vehicle that is guaranteed to fail after a couple of weeks sitting still. If we were talking 3+ months instead of weeks, I might understand it, but several on the forum are talking 2-3 weeks. Maybe I'm expecting too much?

 

[eeprete]

As mentioned earlier, this is my least favorite option. Also, many times I don't know how long I'll be gone in advance.
My other frustration is that we have to discuss this issue at all! Why do the automakers design a vehicle that is guaranteed to fail after a couple of weeks sitting still. If we were talking 3+ months instead of weeks, I might understand it, but several on the forum are talking 2-3 weeks. Maybe I'm expecting too much?

It's not so much the vehicle as much as it's the subpar aftermarket parts.

 

[fiftyfeetup]

Any news on this? Same problem

The previous owner took mine to the dealer- they replaced the computer in the back drivers side and replaced the alternator- still not fixed.

Fuse 29 draws a lot of current when the door is open, even with the dome lights off.

Fuse 15 draws current all the time and drains the battery.

Has anybody fixed a current draw on fuse 15 killing the battery?

 

[eeprete]

The previous owner took mine to the dealer- they replaced the computer in the back drivers side and replaced the alternator- still not fixed.

Fuse 29 draws a lot of current when the door is open, even with the dome lights off.

Fuse 15 draws current all the time and drains the battery.

Has anybody fixed a current draw on fuse 15 killing the battery?

Is this on the 01 in your profile or a 02-05?

 

[fiftyfeetup]

re:

Its on an 04 explorer. I've replaced the battery, my ammeter is broken so I can't do any specific testing at the moment. Currently monitoring battery voltage after it sits a day, looks good at the moment. Guys at the battery shop tested the current draw and said it was normal. Time will tell.

 

[fiftyfeetup]

I have not had any trouble since replacing the battery.

 

[tesla4all]

I'm having the same problem on my 04 Explorer. Got up one morning and the 3 month old battery was totally dead. Charged the battery and the ***** wouldn't start.

The PCM lost it's memory and I had to get a locksmith to come out and reprogram the PATS with a new key. 180.00

The nominal current draw should be no more than .050A. It has a .66A draw. Traced the draw to fuse #15 in the engine compartment. It's the Memory (PCM/DEAT/Cluster), Courtesy Lamps circuit.

Still looking for the problem. I'll let you know what I find.

Has anyone figured out what this issue is as it is one that I too am currently dealing with.. Thanks

 

[Larryjb]

I've seen no one mention this possibility. I have a high current draw for the first 1/2 hour, then it drops down to under 100 mV. Have you tried closing all doors (maybe the hood too, if possible) for a good hour and then checking the current draw?

Other possibility is that the battery may be sulphated. You may get it up to 12V, but the sulphation may limit the capacity. I had a relatively new battery that had gone dead a few times after not using the vehicle for a few months. After that it couldn't hold a charge for more than a few days. I put it on a desulphator (a pulsating type) for a month. Now the car can sit for a couple of weeks before the voltage drops below 12V.

 

[tesla4all]

I've seen no one mention this possibility. I have a high current draw for the first 1/2 hour, then it drops down to under 100 mV. Have you tried closing all doors (maybe the hood too, if possible) for a good hour and then checking the current draw?

Other possibility is that the battery may be sulphated. You may get it up to 12V, but the sulphation may limit the capacity. I had a relatively new battery that had gone dead a few times after not using the vehicle for a few months. After that it couldn't hold a charge for more than a few days. I put it on a desulphator (a pulsating type) for a month. Now the car can sit for a couple of weeks before the voltage drops below 12V.

Still in the thick of trying to figure this one out... new battery.. same issue.. however I will update when I have something to report.. hoping to keep this thread alive until we all have a concise answer as it seems to be a common problem..