Parking Brake Sticks

[MythX]

This happened a couple times last winter, but each times resolved itself quickly.

Anyway, my truck sat for 4 days this weekend, while I was home lazy. When I was headed out for work this morning though, my parking brake wouldn't disengage. The peddle popped out as expected, but put the truck in reverse or 1st and it just won't go anywhere. I suspect (though can't confirm) that it's just the drivers side based on the way it was trying to move. Anyway, after fiddling with forward/reverse and putting some, but not a lot of pressure on the gas, it finally came free as if it never happened.

Brakes otherwise give no issues, I made it to work, no problem, parking brake disengaged at lunch w/out incident. I suspect it's temp related, it's only ever happened in the mornings, and never when hot. This morning was a bit cooler/wetter than it has been.

Anyway, I wanted to tackle it when I get home from work, so I'm hoping for some ideas on what to check. I figure it's something that just needs to be lubed.

Truck is a '94 sport 4x4 with 5-speed. Pretty much all stock.

Thanks

 

[Roadrunner777]

Cables run on the outside of the driver's side frame rail. Inspect, clean and repair as needed, this happened to me earlier this summer.

 

[MythX]

Thanks. Hoping it's an easy to find/fix problem since this is my daily driver for the work week.

I'll post back with how it goes.

 

[MythX]

OK, took a look. Brake cable seems fine. No rust, nothing that appears to mess with the cable, no kinks. Cable tightens when brake is set, goes lax when released.

Is my next step to pull the drums and check where the cables connect?

BTW, I forgot to mention that every now and then when I set the parking brake, the peddle goes to the floor with ease. When that happens, I release the brake and set it again, then it works fine. Maybe that will shed some light.

Thanks

 

[Anime]

Check out the parking brake cable return spring just in front of the driver's side rear tire.

When the spring gets old and weak, it no longer returns the drum brakes to their normal position, and old brake cables don't help.

Could also be some worn springs and parts in the rear drum brakes, or just a lack of lube. If the brake shoes and the parts that hold them together get all rusty and crusty, the rear shoes can 'stick' and require lots more force to snap back to their original position.

The parking brake pedal going to the floor every so often is just the tensioner/ratcheting mechanism attached to the cable slipping up. Not a big deal and just means sometimes you'll have to release it when it does that and re-engage the parking brake for it to hold.

 

[MythX]

I think I'll just replace the shoes & related hardware. Looks like the hardware kit is $8 at Autozone. What should I use to lube the parts?

 

[Anime]

Replacing the drum brake shoes won't fix an issue with the parking brake spring, and in some cases, will make things worse since the new shoes, even with new hardware, will rub against the drums even worse than worn-in shoes will.

Best bet if the spring is worn out is to get a new one, Autozone sells them in the red-tagged HELP! parts section. They have a fairly beefy single brake return spring and a slightly more expensive multi-spring variety pack that comes with a big spring in it. I suggest using the thickest, strongest spring with the most tension so it REALLY pulls the brake shoes back and prevents them from ever dragging in the slightest.



The metal parts of the shoes that contact the backing plate should get an ultra-thin coat of synthetic brake grease (usually the stuff used for brake caliper slide pins), just enough to give them something to slide on, but not enough to get on and contaminate the lining of the shoes.

The threads of the brake shoe adjuster should get a thin coating of anti-seize.

You can usually get these lubes in tiny packets at the parts store counter these days for 99 cents rather than buying a big tube or jar.