Passenger side power window | Ford Explorer Forums

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Passenger side power window

colindo94

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 1, 2006
Messages
1,102
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5
City, State
Cameron Park, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
94' XLT
I was coming home from wheeling yesterday and the passenger side power window just stopped working. It has always worked perfect and now it does nothing. I pulled off the door panel and speaker to see if I could get a closer look and everything looks fine. All the connections are good and wires are good. Checked the fuse under the dash and its good (I expected this because all the other windows work). So Is it the window moter? It always has worked fine and had good power. Would it just up and die out of nowhere.
 



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Well I noticed that when I flip both the switch on the driver side and passenger side the voltage guage moves so there is power getting to both switches. I cheched out the switch on the drivers side also and all the connections seemed to be fine. The moter isn't making any noise when I hit the switches, just nothing happens. Can anyone give me some help ASAP. The window is stuck in the down position.
 






yeah the same thing happened to me today i hope someone can figure out the problem
 






My guess would seem to be the window motor, but you will have to do some wire testing. I have tips for my dmm probes that have small needles in them for piercing wire insulation. Great for testing wires right to the source. Not remembering what my motor connection looks like, back probing the connector may be an option as well. Check to see you have power in the wires all the way down to the motor.

If it turns out the motor is shot there may be a way to disconnect the motor from the window regulator to at least get it up in case of rain.
 






Both switches fail to run the window? Check for voltage at the master switch terminals, that window only. You should read a full voltage on each for different directions.. They read ground normally, and one at a time switched.

If the readings are not clear, pull the passenger switch out and check again. When you know that the voltage is there, then it can be the switches or motor.
 






the samething happened to my ride but also my passenger lower lumbar support dont work either also if its the window motor would it make some sort of noise or anything
 






I would have thought that the motoer would make a noise. that is the most common problem that I have read up on. Tommorow I will pull the drivers door apart to see if there is anything out of the ordinary.
 






Well I chechout all the wireing in both doors and everything looks just fine. Has anyone ever been inside one of these motors? Is there wire connections inside the motor that I can't see? This happened after wheeling. I tried to roll up the window once I got back on the highway and there was nothing. This makes me think that something rattled loose somewhere that I can't see.
 






If it is those plastic gears, and those are designed to be the weak link, the task isn't very hard. You basically will be taking the case apart, leave the motor section all in place. Simply replace those three main parts. Call the parts stores and see if they carry the kits. I need to do both of my 91 Lincoln window motors. Regards,
 






everything that I have read said that you can hear the motor running when those bushings go out. I have nothing. Like no power getting to the motor.
 






If there is a noise when you push the switch then... the bushings have gone out

if and when the Bushings go out, I have had this happen on both Front Windows, I have replaced them by hand and my Good Friend does Glass work so it cost me all in all about $0 but the bushings are about $3 and to have someone replace them for you will run you in the ball park of $85 +/- per window...

To do it yourself is worth saving the money but you have to have some understanding on what you are doing... you have to take the motor out(Very Tricky), and for a caution take out the window and the molding and then take apart the motor and then get the U clamp off and then Scrap the Grounded up bushings out then put new ones in and then put it all back together.. and there is about 5 screws and 4-10 Rivets all total. it took me about 3 hours for the first and about 30 mins for the second because i found a short cut by drilling a hole... dont remember where tho...

hope this is to some help for the Motor moving but no Window Movement problem...

Chris
 






No sorry, there is no noise at all when I hit the switch. No motor running.
 






It's probably electrical then, the switches included. Pull the door panel off of that door, to get access to the switch wiring. Check for power with ignition on, at the red/blue wire. That is the power wire feeding the three passenger doors. It comes from the master switch, the window lock switch. That should have power, play with the window lock switch a bit. It will likely turn out to be the wiring between the switches, or the switch itself. Regards,
 






Yea I also expected the switch also. Either the one on the passenger side or the drivers side. The only thing that makes me think it's not the switch is that when I hit either switch the voltage gage still moves. SO the switched are still getting power.
 






Yea I also expected the switch also. Either the one on the passenger side or the drivers side. The only thing that makes me think it's not the switch is that when I hit either switch the voltage gage still moves. SO the switched are still getting power.

This is the reason I suggested checking the wires earlier in the post. It's possible the problem is between the switch and the window motor, but if you are seeing a draw on the gauge something is happening. Seems like it's the motor itself, but if you test the wires directly as they go into the motor and you have power there, you have effectively ruled out just about everything but the motor. I don't remember what the window motors look like or where the power feeds to them, but your looking at about 5 mins to get the door panel off, and prolly 10 mins of troubleshooting.
 






The main wires blue/black, and the other three with red/blue should show power. Every one of the eight wires at each switch, while not pressed, they should all read as grounds. They are all ground wires, until one switch changes one wire of a pair, to a power wire.
 






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