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Passenger's side power window issues

headrush

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Joined
May 26, 2002
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City, State
Mount Pleasant, SC
Year, Model & Trim Level
2010 Nissan Frontier SE
Hey guys I've searched around but haven't found a complete fix to my problems yet with my passenger's side window. It used to stop working intermittently and now it's stopped completely. I've checked the fuses (good) and I've removed the door panel to take a look at the wires (good as far as I can tell). Seems as though power is coming from the switch itself (lights dim when I press the buttons) but I don't hear any noises from the motor, bushings, etc.
Anybody have anymore ideas on what else it could be besides the motor itself? Thanks.
 



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Does the passenger side work from the driver's controls? I had the same problem on mine, but it was the passenger control panel. A multimeter (voltmeter) would help a heck of a lot to see if you have power to the control panel on the passenger side. (a test light is also good to test with) The dimming of the lights could be a power draw to the motor, if you can test for power to the motor that will isolate the fault futher, power to the motor but the motor nor working is a good sign that the motor is defective.
 






No, the window doesn't work from the master control (driver's side) either. I'm going to try and pick up a voltmeter sometime today. When you say the passenger control panel, how easy was that to fix?
 






The passenger control in the passenger's door was easy to replace. Got one from a salvage yard and spliced the wiring. I am assuming that all other windows are working.
But if the window does not work from the driver's control panel, there is a good chance that the wiring to the motor is not the problem and the motor is bad. My wiring diagrams are for a '92 so i wouldn't trust the wire colors being the same for a '97.
The voltmeter will answer questions.
 






As a test of the motor, run a pair of wires directly from the battery, one positive and one negative to the window motor. Use suitable gauge wires. Reversing polarity should make window go up or down. If window doesn't move with the direct feed, the motor is bad.
 






As a test run a direct wire from the battery to the window motor. Reversing polarity should amke window go up or down. If window doesn't move with the direct feed, the motor is bad.

Good quick test!!!
 






Tried the direct feed option and no such luck. Guess the motor is bad. Is there any write-up on replacement anywhere? I've searched here and in my Haynes manual but have not found anything.
 


















Ok now I'm really stumped. I was driving today and out of habit pressed the button for my front passenger's side window and what do you know, it's working again. Must be a wiring issue or something was pinched/loose but I never noticed it. I was installing some of the brackets for the door panel yesterday so it would fit more snug, so maybe in the midst of all that it fixed the problem. Let's just hope it stays that way. Thanks for all the help guys.
 






Ok now I'm really stumped. I was driving today and out of habit pressed the button for my front passenger's side window and what do you know, it's working again. Must be a wiring issue or something was pinched/loose but I never noticed it. I was installing some of the brackets for the door panel yesterday so it would fit more snug, so maybe in the midst of all that it fixed the problem. Let's just hope it stays that way. Thanks for all the help guys.

If you correctly tested the motor with a Hot wire from the battery and it did not work and now is intermittently working you probably have a bad bushing or dirty bushing ring in the motor. Also does the window move smoothly (when it is working) or does it seem as though is it slow?

What ever it is you probably should keep at it until you find the problem or refrain from lowering your window. You dont want it getting stuck down in bad weather.
 






Actually the "correct" method for testing an electric "component" is providing a KNOWN GOOD SET of INPUTS... in this case, BOTH power AND ground. IF you did not do that, then drawing the "conclusion" that the motor is bad is not necessarily correct.
 






Yeah I'm going to refrain from using it at the moment until I find the true culprit, perhaps when I have some time over the weekend. I'm not very good with electrical components, but I thought I did the test from the battery to the motor correctly.

The window rolls up fine, not slow to roll up or rough like my rear ones. I had this same problem a few years ago- didn't work for a while and then started working again. When I get to the bottom of it I'll let you know.
 






reapereviltwin,

I had the same issue with mine...1) power window does not work for front passenger side but works fine when using the driver side main controls. Also, 2) rear driver side power window works only from the rear door switch but not from the main driver side controls. Any tips on fixing 1 or 2? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.
 






yeah i dont mean to take over this thread but id rather ask here then start a new one i am having the same problem, i can roll all of the windows down with the main control but none of the window switches work individually its getting to be a PITA i need it fixed i was wondering if the window lock was shot and wondered if i can change just that but it is all connected...thanks for the help
 






more than likely just clean it... a few posts of either clean or replace.
 






reapereviltwin,

I had the same issue with mine...1) power window does not work for front passenger side but works fine when using the driver side main controls. Also, 2) rear driver side power window works only from the rear door switch but not from the main driver side controls. Any tips on fixing 1 or 2? Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Item 1.
I had this same issue, 96 XLT 5.0.
Driver's side wire harness boot between the frame and door had a broken wire inside.
Pink with Lt Green trace I think. The connection has a 10mm captured bolt on top; it does not come out. Wiggle loose and unplug the harness. There's a plastic tie wrap on the boot to be removed to peel back the boot for inspection.
No, you can't get to it from the inside and it is a tight place to work.
Be sure to put shrink tubing on before the solder job and slide it out of the way.
 






Fixt,

I tested the Front Passenger power window wires yesterday for continuity, and found one that did not respond (R/LB). The P/LG wire you had suggested seemed to have continuity. I tried finding where the R/LB splice was (S314) to check on its connections, but they all looked good. Studied the wiring diagram, and discovered that R/LB wires the window lock switch. But window lock switch seems to work ok though. so now, i'm stuck. How do i know if the actual window switch works? I tried cleaning it yesterday (by simply rubbing off all the dark spots in the copper connections where the switch makes contact) but still no response...

i'm dumbfounded...
 






Fixt,

I tested the Front Passenger power window wires yesterday for continuity, and found one that did not respond (R/LB). The P/LG wire you had suggested seemed to have continuity. I tried finding where the R/LB splice was (S314) to check on its connections, but they all looked good. Studied the wiring diagram, and discovered that R/LB wires the window lock switch. But window lock switch seems to work ok though. so now, i'm stuck. How do i know if the actual window switch works? I tried cleaning it yesterday (by simply rubbing off all the dark spots in the copper connections where the switch makes contact) but still no response...

i'm dumbfounded...

I hate intermittent failures. If it's going to break, I wish it would stay broke so it can be narrowed down.

At any rate, have you looked inside that harness?
Lots of grief come repeated flexing of those wires.
My wire was simply broken, hanging loose and easy to find.
I may be misremembering colors, it happens when you get old.
 



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