Pcm-pats problems to anybody that can help

[kevinvug]

OK... so I would try as I suggested.... put a good key in the "run" position for at least 30 seconds. As mentioned, this will "clear" the "scanning process". Then, you can try a "normal start" process after that... ie. key off, normal 2 second flashing, key on, 3 second solid then off.... try start. Did that nothing.

Replace the module? Receiver? Key? All?

 

[CDW6212R]

Did you hear the fuel pump during the first second or so? If the key is accepted then you should get full fuel pressure. Work on that fuel pump sound with a good key, then if it's priming, check the pressure.

 

[kevinvug]

I can hear the pump priming but I have not checked the pressure just yet. I will tommorow.

 

[kevinvug]

Ok noticed that the "theft" goes solid whenever the doors are locked either with the remote or the electronic switch on the door. It stays completly solid until the doors are unlocked. The other curious thing is that the drivers side door lock only works to unlock and not lock the doors.

Could this have anything to do with it?

 

[gijoecam]

Ok noticed that the "theft" goes solid whenever the doors are locked either with the remote or the electronic switch on the door. It stays completly solid until the doors are unlocked. The other curious thing is that the drivers side door lock only works to unlock and not lock the doors.

Could this have anything to do with it?

Nope. You're not waiting long enough. The light goes solid for roughly 2 minutes, then blinks after it's been armed. Once it starts blinking, if you open a door without using the key or the remote, the alarm will sound.

But that's got nothing to do with the PATS... that's RAP function... PATS is only an issue when the engine is starting.

Also, the switch or some wiring is bad for the lock side of the switch... Again, coincidence.

 

[BIGHVM]

Forgive me if you have already done this but have you tried just simply replacing the leads from the battery? I recall that they can corrode inside and look good outside but build high resistance.........its a cheap thing to do compared to whats been spent so I would do that as a starter mate, sometimes just sometimes I am right.........!

 

[jp450]

Another thing I noticed is that you indicated that the battery was dead and that you had to jump it. If the battery is not putting out the proper voltage, should be around 12-13 volts, then the "computers" will not work properly. You may have enough voltage to make things to appear that they are working but in reality they are not. Get a known good battery or a "jump" starter and apply that and make sure that the system is getting the 12 volts that it needs. Sometimes a battery's cell will go bad and it will not have the 12 volts needed for things wo work properly. This condition can also be from the corroded cables that another poster indicated. I am sure that the dealer would have thought of this but it is such a simple thing it may have been overlooked. Keep us posted as to the outcome.

Jeff

 

[#1stunta]

hey i think i lost connection of my anti theft fuel relay circuit to the alarm system does anyone know where these wires red and black hook too in the main fuse box under the hood?

 

[bkemotorsport]

It was brought up that there might be a problem with the key and I did go back and forth with my mechanic about using the original key that came with the vehicle and the replacement. The PCM that was installed was used and was flashed by Ford. And yes I can hear the fuel pump turn on. I even checked the fuel cutoff switch underneath the passenger side, the switch I tested with an OHM meter and tested the electrical connection there as well.

I had not checked the crank sensor or the PATSII.

On your cluster look at the miles to "e" with key on. If you see dashes rather than a number good sign of a corroded pcm. Check fuses 5 and 29. They are both pcm fuses. If blown a good sign of a corr6pcm.. a ford fluke

 

[allmyEXes]

@bkemotorsport The thread that you replied to had its last post in 2009!