PLEASE HELP! no start/ant-theft, PATS problems

[03SVTCobra]

guys, need help getting my Explorer back up and running before the 4th to get to my cabin in upstate PA. i absolutely need 4wd. here is what's been going on, i copied this from my local mustang forums:

ok, so i've been having an issue with the Exploder 4WD engaging and i've already replaced the 4X4 control module. so on monday i decided to check all the fuses/relays. i ohmed out evry single goddamn one of them and they all are ok. this is where my newest and biggest problem comes in. so after checking and replacing them back into the proper places i went to start the truck - NOTHING. i mean not even a click from the starter solenoid. so the last two nights i've been tracing the starter relay and checking voltages etc... with my multi-meter to no avail. then i realized the frigging THEFT light on the dash never shuts off when i disarm the alarm w/ keypad and stays blinking as i try to start the damn truck. i'm assuming now the anti-theft module is keeping the truck from starting as i get no power to the starter relay when the key is turned to the start position.

is this my problem? does anyone have an OBDII scanner they can lend me (will it even throw a code for the anti-theft??) or bring here? what needs to be done to correct his? or am i way off base here? any tips/tricks etc... ? could it be the ingition cylinder? is it not recognising my key? if so can the PCM be reset? i've already tried the disconnect the battery for 15 min to "reset" things but no luck..

BTW, i found that the fuse on the side panel on the interior is what has been giving me fits w/ the 4WD... so that now works, just can't start the damn thing now...

i just had a locksmith out and recoded 2 new keys and it still wont start. i'm pissed. he says it's the computer. idk wtf to do know except maybe clear any codes? does it clear codes as well? i REALLY don't want to tow it to Ford and get ass-raped to for this. the locksmith said to find a comp from a junkyard, but then won't the keys need to be re-coded? i ####ing HATE this PATS system...

ok, so it looks like the computer is fried? i bought a quick hand held OBD2 scanner and it says it can't link. tried it on the wife's Lancer and hooked up right away and showed 0 codes. so now i guess i get a used computer from Ebay. found a couple for $50, the exact same part # as it appears there are several for the Explorer. talked to a tech and he said it has to be an exact match?? so now for the $250k question - will i need everything reprogrammed to match this ECU (keys etc...?)


this is really starting to piss me off...

PLEASE help. i need this truck fixed ASAP.

link to my thread back home:
http://phillystangs.com/forums/index.php?topic=18352.0

 

[2000StreetRod]

PATS disables injectors

On my 2000 Sport PATS causes the PCM to disable the fuel injectors when a non-compatible key is used in the ignition. The starter still cranks and the engine will run briefly on starting fluid.

Many members have problems with remote start systems and alarm systems preventing the starter from cranking - especially after market systems. Do you have either?

The PCM must be programmed to recognize the PATS keys. If you change your PCM then it will have to be programmed for the keys.

It seems coincidental that your starter suddenly won't crank after you worked on the vehicle. Perhaps you pulled a wire loose or shorted something. Maybe you fixed something that has never worked with your alarm or remote start system if you have either. I suggest you retrace what you did to fix your 4x4 control module to see if it affected something else.

These may provide some ideas: Ford Explorer Starter No crank procedure
Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

The code reader not working is odd since the locksmith uses the OBD-II port to reprogram the PCM for new keys. Which engine do you have? Check fuse 17 in the Central Junction Box. Make sure the PCM connector is securely attached but do not overtighten.

 

[my98nnj]

If you've bEen tracing the starter circuit and looking at voltages, what did you find? Did you check for the 12 volt signal at the starter to energize the solenoid when the key is in the start position? And if that is indeed missing, have you traced back from there to see where your loosing it?

 

[03SVTCobra]

On my 2000 Sport PATS causes the PCM to disable the fuel injectors when a non-compatible key is used in the ignition. The starter still cranks and the engine will run briefly on starting fluid.

Many members have problems with remote start systems and alarm systems preventing the starter from cranking - especially after market systems. Do you have either?

The PCM must be programmed to recognize the PATS keys. If you change your PCM then it will have to be programmed for the keys.

It seems coincidental that your starter suddenly won't crank after you worked on the vehicle. Perhaps you pulled a wire loose or shorted something. Maybe you fixed something that has never worked with your alarm or remote start system if you have either. I suggest you retrace what you did to fix your 4x4 control module to see if it affected something else.

These may provide some ideas: Ford Explorer Starter No crank procedure
Ford Explorer Engine No Start Procedure

The code reader not working is odd since the locksmith uses the OBD-II port to reprogram the PCM for new keys. Which engine do you have? Check fuse 17 in the Central Junction Box. Make sure the PCM connector is securely attached but do not overtighten.

4.0L OHC. and no aftermarket system either, just the stock junk. i had replaced the 4x4 control module months ago and it started to work intermittentlly. so i finally got atround to checking all the fuses for the 4wd system. all i did was pull out each fuse for the 4wd and test with an ohm meter. each one was fine. what i found was the contacts to the fuse in the cab (#36 iirc) had oxidation on the contacts, when i wiggled the fuse the 4wd came back to life. went to start it up and NOTHING.

this is what is driving me nuts. i did NOTHING to pop the ECU that i can think of. i was only given one key with the rig and never got to make a spare before this happened. the locksmith told my wife he was having trouble/couldn't connect to the PCM either (i was at work...) i traced the enitre starting circuit and the relay on the power distribution block never clicks in the energize the solenoid. i pulled the relay out and jumped the contacts which caused the motor to try to turn over but nothing. but like you said it disables the ignition/fuel as well. the PCM relay clicks on when i turn the key. i've sinced pulled EVERY fuse/relay i can find only to find they are fine....

thanks for the links.

 

[budwich]

Its ok to cause your starter to turn in some fashion... that way at least you know it is NOT your starter..... BUT that's not going to the root cause.... you need to follow the circuit totally thru and find out why there aren't appropriate electrical conditions at each stage.... then you need to address those and then move on to why "no fire".

 

[03SVTCobra]

ok i just went and got a mtching ECU from the u-pull it yard and installed it and STILL WON"T CONNECT TO THE OBD2 SCANNER........................

WTF

DOES THE ANTI-THEFT CONTROL MODULE LOCK OUT THE ECU IF IT THINKS IT'S BEING STOLEN????????????????


THIS IS ####ING RIDICULOUS................

 

[2000StreetRod]

code reader requires ignition on

I suspect that the PCM will not communicate with a code reader via the OBD-II bus unless a valid PATS key is detected when the ignition is switched on. That's probably why it takes 15 to 20 minutes for a PATS capable locksmith to get the PCM to "learn" a new key but only a few minutes for the second key. The locksmith uses a special electronic device that communicates with the PCM via a non-standard protocol. I'll try my non-PATS key to see what happens.

I just realized that I left my code reader in my Volvo which I have loaned to my cousin. I won't be able to try the experiment for a couple of days.

As I previously posted, PATS should not prevent the starter from cranking the engine. It should only prevent the engine from starting since the injectors do not fire. I suggest that you determine why the starter doesn't crank and fix that before troubleshooting the PATS and OBD-II problem.

Perhaps the gear selector is out of alignment. Have you tried to start in Neutral or with the selector slightly forward or aft of Neutral?

 

[2000StreetRod]

starting system

The wiring for the starting system is fairly simple and the same for all of the automatic transmissions. The only difference is if the high series console is present or not. Power to the ignition switch comes from Fuse 5 (50A) in the Battery Junction Box. Power flows thru one section of the multi-section ignition switch to Fuse 24 (7.5A) in the Central Junction Box. If you pull Fuse 24 there should be battery voltage on one of the fuse holder contacts when the ignition switch is in the Start position. Reinstall the fuse after checking it for continuity. Power flows from Fuse 24 thru several connectors to the Digital Transmission Range (DTR) Sensor. If you have the automatic transmission without the high series console power flows thru a Clutch Pedal Position (CPP) Jumper before going to the DTR sensor. If the DTR sensor is in Park or Neutral then when in Start there should be battery voltage to pin 85 of the Starter Motor Relay in the Battery Junction Box. Remove the Starter Motor Relay and check for battery voltage in Start. If battery voltage is present then try swapping the Starter Motor Relay with the Blower Motor Relay.

 

[03SVTCobra]

I suspect that the PCM will not communicate with a code reader via the OBD-II bus unless a valid PATS key is detected when the ignition is switched on. That's probably why it takes 15 to 20 minutes for a PATS capable locksmith to get the PCM to "learn" a new key but only a few minutes for the second key. The locksmith uses a special electronic device that communicates with the PCM via a non-standard protocol. I'll try my non-PATS key to see what happens.

I just realized that I left my code reader in my Volvo which I have loaned to my cousin. I won't be able to try the experiment for a couple of days.

As I previously posted, PATS should not prevent the starter from cranking the engine. It should only prevent the engine from starting since the injectors do not fire. I suggest that you determine why the starter doesn't crank and fix that before troubleshooting the PATS and OBD-II problem.

Perhaps the gear selector is out of alignment. Have you tried to start in Neutral or with the selector slightly forward or aft of Neutral?

lol, funny you mention the gear selector i tried that just for the hell of it in both Neutral then tried to re-select Park several times but nothing. the starter relay on the power dist. block never gets energized to send the power to the starter. i can't for the life of me figure out why. ALL fuses in-cab and in the PDB are ok. soon as i pull out the relay and jump the proper contacts, the engine turns over but never fires. i even had the wife in the cab and turn the key to the "start" position as i did this but it just turned and turned no fire. i've traced the ntire starting circuit like you said and everything is fine up until this relay. i tried a new relay and still nothing...

yeah i'm thinking the PATS has locked out the PCM, due to my key not being recognized as valid. so i had it towed to a Ford dealer earlier to hopefully reset everything.

thanks for all the info

 

[2000StreetRod]

OBD II bus & bad PATS key

I retrieved my actron CP9125 OBD II PocketScan code reader from my Volvo. I tried reading my Sport OBD codes with a bad PATS key. Even though the THEFT light was flashing rapidly with the key on the code reader communicated with the PCM and read the DTCs normally.

What did the dealer find about your problem?

 

[Ferrellpaige]

lol, funny you mention the gear selector i tried that just for the hell of it in both Neutral then tried to re-select Park several times but nothing. the starter relay on the power dist. block never gets energized to send the power to the starter. i can't for the life of me figure out why. ALL fuses in-cab and in the PDB are ok. soon as i pull out the relay and jump the proper contacts, the engine turns over but never fires. i even had the wife in the cab and turn the key to the "start" position as i did this but it just turned and turned no fire. i've traced the ntire starting circuit like you said and everything is fine up until this relay. i tried a new relay and still nothing...

yeah i'm thinking the PATS has locked out the PCM, due to my key not being recognized as valid. so i had it towed to a Ford dealer earlier to hopefully reset everything.

thanks for all the info

So what did the dealer say?

 

[Mbrooks420]

This thread is 12 years old. And this member hasn’t been online since 2015.

What’s your issue?

 

[donna3673]

guys, need help getting my Explorer back up and running before the 4th to get to my cabin in upstate PA. i absolutely need 4wd. here is what's been going on, i copied this from my local mustang forums:


I am having the same issue have you fixed yours







PLEASE help. i need this truck fixed ASAP.

link to my thread back home:
http://phillystangs.com/forums/index.php?topic=18352.0

Something here i can't get my truck running fir the same reason

 

[410Fortune]

Pats system in 98-02 the theft light should flash slowly at rest
Then with key in start position the theft light should go out
If the theft light rapid flashes when the key it turned to start then you let it rapid flashes for 90 seconds… then it starts to flash a trouble code

Count the flashes for your trouble code
Typically an issue with the key or antenna