PCV Location 98 V6 SOHC

[celly]

There is a kit specific for our Explorers. I think Energy Suspension has an application chart on their website. That's how I found mine.

 

[Diddy74]

Sure its 34mm, but don't get just the swaybar bushings do the end links as well- you have to take the Sway Bar off completely anyhow. You can get the kit for about $25, I got the red ones

I was planning on that but the different bushings, links and bump stops are sold individually and not as a vehicle specific kit. I guess since im in a bushing mood might as well do front and rear. Have you had any problems with the PCV? I assume nothing bad can happen if its not "secured", as long as the hose connections are tight and nothing is leaking

 

[Lazzman]

Mine I snapped the housing. The nipple on the PVC valve was larger than the hole on the T connector and it was an exact motorcraft replacement part. Needless to say I tried to force it in as that I removed the old one several times and had no problem pushing it back in with a bit of force- it would just click into place.

I WD-40d the new PCV valve and it would not go in past the nipple. Guess what I forced it in hard and the front half of the factory T connector broke off. I still had space to put the valve back into the conncetor but it was exposed to the air. I did a half ass tape job then drove the truck- and it idled like crap, nearly stalling.

I took out the whole T connection and carefully examined it in my basement. I wrapped electrical tape around the opening and valve carefully several times. After the re-install the truck idles much better. But still slightly drops out a bit.

I have a new T valve on order from ford but my question is how do I get the PCV valve in the new connector without breaking it as well? Should be a bit easier now that I have the T housing discounected from the truck.


Any tips or tricks- I don't want to break a brand new $45 part.

 

[Lazzman]

Diddy what are you talking about? I bought my Energy Suspension bushings as a kit- check online, cheaper and easier than the auto parts store.

You should get two sway bar bushings, 2 end links with bushings and nuts and bolts- for $25 or so.

 

[Diddy74]

True I saw the kits online, but I happened to be in Autozone and saw they started carrying Energy Suspension products, got a little excited and figured why wait for the UPS guy, might as well grab some bushings and do what I can while the weather is holding up ...(another 60deg day predicted WTF?) thing is they are sold individually sway bar bushing, end links, tie rod boots, etc. I didnt know all the differnt sizes and measurments off the top of my head. The sales help arent much "help" when they cant find the answer in the computer. I felt like i've repeated the year make model engine size vin number..and other obscure measurements so much its like knowing your SS#.

 

[Lazzman]

I know how you feel. I saw them at autozone as well and was very intrigued. Good thing I already have them installed. They make all the difference in the world.

Now about that PCV valve?

 

[Diddy74]

I know how you feel. I saw them at autozone as well and was very intrigued. Good thing I already have them installed. They make all the difference in the world.

Now about that PCV valve?

Well went I went to FORD the T connector, PCV valve and hoses was sold as one unit already assembled, all I would have to do is connect the hoses. If I knew it would have been a problem I would put the valve in the freezer for a few minutes then maybe just run the connector under some hot water...let it expand then it should mate with ease. Of course let everything dry before putting it in the engine! My "improvised" connection consists of a generic vacum T connector, mated to the PCV valve with piece of rubber vacum hose, and to insure a good seal secured with some automotive ductape. I think i'll leave it as is, no problems so far, and its actually much easier to access now, which will come in handy when I do a Seafoam treatment. I have done the brake booster line previously, next time around i'll try the PCV valve intake as I see the consensus on here is that the best place to do an effective treatment.

 

[Lazzman]

Good thinking I thought about doing the same trying to expand the coupler.

I use the IAC tube when doing the seafoam thing it works good. Just remeber to disonnect the MAF sensor wiring harness or the truck will stall out.

Peace

 

[Diddy74]

Good thinking I thought about doing the same trying to expand the coupler.

I use the IAC tube when doing the seafoam thing it works good. Just remeber to disonnect the MAF sensor wiring harness or the truck will stall out.

Peace

Really the IAC? Ok explain this one, you take the IAC off then pour it down the in the manifold directly?

 

[celly]

Really the IAC? Ok explain this one, you take the IAC off then pour it down the in the manifold directly?

Sorry to butt in here, but one of the two tubes that goes into your air intake terminates at the IAC. Disconnect this tube (it's hard plastic) at the intake and run your Seafoam through there.That was the method I used when I had a SOHC. Very effective.

 

[Diddy74]

Sorry to butt in here, but one of the two tubes that goes into your air intake terminates at the IAC. Disconnect this tube (it's hard plastic) at the intake and run your Seafoam through there.That was the method I used when I had a SOHC. Very effective.

No please butt in! Any pointers and tips help! Now my next question would be... what 2 hard plastic tubes? My IAC is mounted dead center on top of the intake, which is one solid piece. Only tubes running in back there by the IAC are the 2 that come from the PCV valve itself. I think this is where there is confusion as to where certain components are. For some reason things vary even if its a year apart and engine to engine. Hence the purpose of this thread. I'll take a look when I get off

 

[celly]

On my '00, there were two tubes running into the AIR INTAKE tube. One was a crankcase vent (soft rubber tube) and the other is the IAC tube (hard plastic, with a bend just before it hits your air intake tube). You're focusing on the IAC itself. Take a look at the tubes going into the rubber air intake tube not far from your MAF/airbox.

I assume '99 and '00 air intake tubes are identical.

 

[Diddy74]

On my '00, there were two tubes running into the AIR INTAKE tube. One was a crankcase vent (soft rubber tube) and the other is the IAC tube (hard plastic, with a bend just before it hits your air intake tube). You're focusing on the IAC itself. Take a look at the tubes going into the rubber air intake tube not far from your MAF/airbox.

I assume '99 and '00 air intake tubes are identical.

OHHH Ok I gotcha, the IAC TUBE...lol. I do need a new IAC, I did the cleaning and stuff but the valve in there still sticks.

 

[celly]

I've got a brand new IAC with about 2-3 weeks of driving on it if you're interested. I bought one for my Sport back in November and sold it soon after. Rather than keep the almost brand new IAC on the sold Sport, I put the old one back on before I turned it over to the used car lot. I'm eventually putting it up for sale. Just haven't got around to it.

Make a reasonable offer via private messaging and maybe we can do a deal. Make sure 1999 and 2000 are the same applications (mine was a '00). Paypal preferred.

 

[Lazzman]

This is the final message for all those who own a V6 98 Sohc motor in regard to the PCV filter. Guess What although Ford does sell the PCV filter separately they do not want you to use it. When it is time to replace the PCV valve they want you to buy the kit under part F77Z6C342ABwhich includes the PCV valve already mounted in the plastic T connector with the hoses. I purchased it for $29 plus shipping.

I know it sounds like a rip off and it is as the Motorcraft EV225 PCV valve sells for $5.95. But all the trouble you will go through trying to get the oversized nipple into the T connector is worth the price of the new one to me. Especially if its your daily driver and you damage the connector- there go's your idle.

I am sure if you messed with it you could sand it, freeze it to get it smaller or file it, but then you also have the problem of getting the old one out. I was able to twist mine out but there was no way in hell the new one was going to fit without modification.

Just a thought- I would have gladly spent the $29 to avoid all the extra BS. You can mess with the old PCV connector just make sure you have a spare housing lying around in case :fire:

 

[Diddy74]

LOL I feel you on what your saying, I guess its just the principle of paying $40 or more to replace a $2 part. So far my improvised connection is holding up great. Maybe one day when my OCD flairs up or I have an allergic reaction to the paper money is made of i'll go back to Ford a get the whole PCV assembly.

 

[Trailbum]

GREAT info here, thanks guys!!! I absolutely COULD NOT find the PCV Valve on my 2000 SOHC.... Parts guy at the dealership showed me a diagram with it located in the left valve cover. Definately WASN'T there in my 2000. With the info from this post, I found it BEHIND the right valve cover. I was able to get the old PCV valve out of the Y-connector, but unable to get the new PCV valve into the Y-connector...... Not wanting to break the connector like others here have had happen, I took the Y-connector and dropped it in a pan of simmering water for a couple of minutes. Removed and quickly snapped the new PCV valve into it while the connector was soft. Worked great!!!!

 

[Lazzman]

This is great news as the new housing with the hoses costs $35 as oppossed to $5.25 for a motorcraft EV-225 PCV valve.

 

[sean99]

I took my pcv valve out with the two hoses still connected.I used a hair dryer to heat up the y-connector and the new pcv popped right in.I'm sure the connector would have cracked if I didn't heat it up.My pcv location for a 99 v6 sohc was at the back of the engine,hidden behind the intake manifold.

 

[dalernelson]

I have a 99 4.0L SOHC and I just found mine. I will take come pics tonight and post them. Dirty little bugger to replace.