Pinion nut removal

[Pretzel60]

I am trying to replace the seal on my 01 Explorer, have read through some of the posts but am having a heck of a time budging this nut loose. I've marked everything, counted the threads and am ready to go. The correct way says to remove the brakes and axles and where I get lost with all that is how in the heck could anyone loosen the nut, the gears would just turn. All I'm trying to do is chock the wheels to keep the truck from moving. My emergency brakes haven't worked in years. Maybe I'm simply missing something, have never changed the seal on any vehicle but plenty of other things on this truck.

 

[koda2000]

I don't know why you would remove the wheels, brakes and axles just to change a pinion seal. You typically wouldn't even need to remove the rear cover. You're correct that there's no way to stop the pinion gear from turning without being able to stop the gears from spinning.

Put the axle and brakes back in and either hold the axles with the parking brake or have someone step on the brake pedal while you remove the pinion nut. BTW, the pinion nut will be very tight and hard to remove without an impact wrench. I believe it is torqued to 200 Ft pounds and it's recommended it be replaced.

If you aren't planning to replace the crush sleeve, it is critical that yoy retighten the pinion nut to exactly where it was when you removed it.

 

[Pretzel60]

I didn't remove the axles, wasn't even going that far. Those were the instructions to do it the "right" way. Unfortunately I don't have an impact wrench. Not sure how I'm going to get that loose but hopefully a good suggestion will come up since many people have done these. Brute force I guess.

 

[koda2000]

a 1/2 breaker bar and a long piece of pipe?

 

[rb142]

The "correct" way involves changing the crush sleeve every time you take that nut off. The procedure for setting the pinion torque is based on rotating the pinion without the rest of the diff in place. I would imagine that is where the official procedure comes from.

As for getting the nut off, the "official" procedure is to use the special tool (or one you make -- a steel bar with a couple holes drilled in it) bolted to the yoke to hold the yoke in place while you remove the nut -- which you will also need to put it back together (at least with a new crush sleeve).

In the real world, most people will just zip it off with an impact wrench. If you are doing it by hand, having someone step on the brakes for you is a good option. Get a nice long breaker bar and you should get it off ok.

 

[Pretzel60]

Okay, so the special tool bolts to the yoke but what actually holds the yoke in place? Let the steel bar hold it by resting on the garage floor? I can picture that working and I wouldn't need a brakeman

 

[Pretzel60]

Thinking, get some angle iron, bolt it to the pinion flange and rest it on something, the floor, a piece of 4X4... Have one of the wheels off and then be able to use the breaker bar and an piece of pipe.

 

[jamie3529gq]

I used an impact gun to get the nut off (maybe you could rent an electric one?) and a 3 foot piece of old garage door opener 't' iron track drilled so I could bolt it to the yoke, and levered it against the garage floor when tightening the nut.

 

[Pretzel60]

Garage door track is too flimsy I'm thinking. I'm going to get some thicker angle iron and hope for the best. It makes sense if that's how the special tool was supposed to work.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Well, I have done this job 3 times recently and I have used a large diameter screwdriver or a flange alignment tool and had stuck it through one of the open holes on the pinion flange and then let it catch on the differential housing, then torque away, I used a long handled breaker bar. Also, I would recommend getting the Dorman kit that has the flange and the seal as old flange sealing surface may/likely will have marks/grooves that will cause the new seal to start leaking again soon. Rock Auto has these and it is listed under Drive Shaft Pinion Yoke, like $25 or so. Keep the old seal to help drive in the new flange if you do not have a seal driver that size. Take the old seal and drive it in with the old flange to keep it square. Then torque the new nut in to 120 ft lbs. Make sure you do not get any grit or dirt in the new seal.

 

[koda2000]

Pack the back side of the new pinion seal with grease so it doesn't run dry on the yoke. Can someone verify that the pinion nut is only torqued to 120 FP's. I thought it was higher, but I may be thinking of the 4WD front axle nut.

 

[Pretzel60]

Okay, I got the nut, yoke and seal off my explorer. I did as crunchie frog said and got the Dorman kit with the new yoke. My question now is lining up the new yoke with the driveshaft since I marked the old yoke and shaft to avoid vibration. Is that nothing to worry about using a new yoke?

 

[crunchie_frog]

Okay, I got the nut, yoke and seal off my explorer. I did as crunchie frog said and got the Dorman kit with the new yoke. My question now is lining up the new yoke with the driveshaft since I marked the old yoke and shaft to avoid vibration. Is that nothing to worry about using a new yoke?

Nothing to line up with the new yoke. I am sure you have read dozens of other threads on the internet but be sure to check the free spin torque after you torque the new nut. You can probably find the specs but I think it is like 16 inch pounds or so and you probably checked yours before removing it like mentioned in other threads and you want it to be close to the same. Too much or too little will likely end up damaging the pinion bearing after a while.

 

[crunchie_frog]

Nothing to line up with the new yoke. I am sure you have read dozens of other threads on the internet but be sure to check the free spin torque after you torque the new nut. You can probably find the specs but I think it is like 16 inch pounds or so and you probably checked yours before removing it like mentioned in other threads and you want it to be close to the same. Too much or too little will likely end up damaging the pinion bearing after a while.

The ford repair manual calls for preload of 8-14 in lbs for used pinion bearing and 16-29 in lbs for new pinion bearing.

 

[Pretzel60]

I don't have an inch pound wrench unfortunately. I didn't do the bearing, just the seal. I did measure and mark the nut before I took it apart. Just got done with a test drive, not that it will really say much driving a few miles. Hopefully I don't end up with a tell tail whine I've read about, but so far no more leak. I do appreciate all the help, have never done one of these before. I'm not planning on keeping this truck a whole lot longer, through the winter at least though.