pinion seal question

[ccrain]

Well darn, I was checking my drive shaft for play when I noticed my rear end was leaking around the pinion seal. The rear end is not roaring so I guess it should be alright ?? My question is I do not own/have access to a air impact wrench. So could I just find the right socket and take everything apart with a regular ratchet. Mark everything to go back right, and how many threads show on flange bolt. Also I tried to top off the fluid and could not get plug out. It seems the 3/8 ratchet end will not go in far enough. It is a 3/8 right?? I am by far no ASE certified mechanic. Just a guy who likes to save money working on his own stuff.Also what kind of diff. fluid does my explorer call for, not sure if it is Possi traction.

 

[koda2000]

Well darn, I was checking my drive shaft for play when I noticed my rear end was leaking around the pinion seal. The rear end is not roaring so I guess it should be alright ?? My question is I do not own/have access to a air impact wrench. So could I just find the right socket and take everything apart with a regular ratchet. Mark everything to go back right, and how many threads show on flange bolt. Also I tried to top off the fluid and could not get plug out. It seems the 3/8 ratchet end will not go in far enough. It is a 3/8 right?? I am by far no ASE certified mechanic. Just a guy who likes to save money working on his own stuff.Also what kind of diff. fluid does my explorer call for, not sure if it is Possi traction.

I don't know if you're going to be able to get the nut off with just a ratchet. it's pretty tight and rust may play a part. maybe if you had a 1 inch drive ratchet or a 1/2 inch drive with a piece of pipe on the handle... as far as marking it, use a punch to make a mark an the nut and housing and then count the turns like you said. as long it goes back in the same place you wont have a problem with the crush sleeve. as far as I recall, the fill plug should be 3/8's. make sure there's no mud in the hole. use an extension and hammer it in the hole if it helps.

 

[ccrain]

thanks, I will get around to replacing the seal within the next week. I just will not drive it drive my other car.

 

[koda2000]

thanks, I will get around to replacing the seal within the next week. I just will not drive it drive my other car.

I forgot to mention, you may require a 2-jaw puller to get the yoke off. sometimes they will just pull right off by hand and other times I've had to use a puller. you can borrow one of those (if necessary) from the auto parts store (AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly, maybe NAPA) for just a deposit.

 

[ccrain]

Well i asked my bossman if i could use the shop to work on my vehicle sometime this weekend. He said sure. Hes got any tool i need pullers, air and electric impact guns, impact sockets anywhere from 1 inch to 4 inches, b/c working on semis you need very big sockets.Also there was some caked on particles on the plug end. Turns out they were metal particles (magnetic). Is this normal over many miles or b/c of low fluid. My dad said as long there wasent any big chunks of metal on it.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

Your good, it seems. The fluid really depends on what Differential you have, so just look at the tags on the diff, or the door tag, and I believe there is a thread on the site here that can help you decode it. I am in the same boat right now, but good news is that my under side of my truck has a great anti rust cover of 80w90!

 

[ccrain]

found the tag on my rear end. It calls for 75w140 synthetic. Thanks a million guys.

 

[1996BLKBauer]

found the tag on my rear end. It calls for 75w140 synthetic. Thanks a million guys.

I think you have a limited slip diff then. if you drain it for what ever reason, be sure to add friction modifier.

 

[koda2000]

some small filings on the magnetic plug are normal.