Please Help! Rear Defrost wont work

[trekmachine]

My Rear Defrost wont work and I have check the fuses and there still good the light use to come on but it hasn’t work since I have had the vehicle if it’s a bad switch how do I take it out? and were would I find a new one? and I know its not the rear window because I just replace it the summer

 

[Robrt32]

I will be following this thread.... I never figured out why mine doesn't work.. I tried several times last winter to no avail. Fuse is good. Its hooked up and the light does come on , on the stitch it just doesn't do any thing

 

[marragtop]

If the light is coming on, use a test light and make sure you are current to both sides of the defroster strips. If the light is not coming on, then use a test light to see if you are getting power to and from the switch.

 

[kraylake]

i have the same problem. fuse is good. indicator light on the dash comes on. i have power on one side of the rear window but not the other. i was under the impression that if one side was working that at least half the heating coils would work but i have no defrost what so ever.

 

[marragtop]

Use a test light and start tracing where you have power on the grid to find out where it loses power.

 

[kraylake]

do i have to have power on both sides to make the defroster work?

 

[Spook]

The wire on the window is part of a circuit, if there is a break anywhere on the wire=no circuit. As suggested a tester on the window wire will show where the break is. Be careful as the wire usually breaks as a result of being scraped. Don't drag the tester along the wire but touch it gently to avoid any more damage. You can pick up a repair kit at most auto parts stores that paints on to repair the circuit. Good luck.
Oh, and when you clean your rear window use a microfibre cloth and rub gently in a horizontal stroke not up and down across the defrost grid.

 

[DeRocha]

Spook is on the money...

 

[burning_soul07]

I fixed mine, but it barely has any power. My negative side contact wasn't working properly.

I had to make a new ground wire for it. I used a digital voltmeter to test it. Using the volt meter set to normal 12VDC I just started going along the lines and at the connections always holding the ground on the meter to chassis ground and using the positive to test. I would say that this is a better way because a test light isn't really going to tell you the voltage that your getting. I was only getting 5 volts in some areas.

 

[Przybysz]

can you just solder the lead back onto the rear window? I think thats where my short is

 

[gmanpaint]

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ

 

[Przybysz]

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-15067-Window-Defogger-Repair/dp/B000HBI9YQ

The break actually isnt in the grid. Its right where the wire attaches to the window, it broke off on one side and I wasnt able to get it back on correct.

 

[gmanpaint]

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2135...ve-Defogger/dp/B001REV7LE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_3

 

[Przybysz]

DaM! That better PERMANENTLY BOND to my window. Its expensive O.O

 

[DeRocha]

can you just solder the lead back onto the rear window? I think thats where my short is

Yes... when a wire makes accidental contact with another wire (ie positive going to ground) its a short (causes blown fuses/ sparks to fly as the power takes the shortest/least resistant path back to ground. Your condition is a break where the circuit is broken/disconnected (no blown fuses, but the end device (rear defroster is not getting any power).

 

[Przybysz]

Yes... when a wire makes accidental contact with another wire (ie positive going to ground) its a short (causes blown fuses/ sparks to fly as the power takes the shortest/least resistant path back to ground. Your condition is a break where the circuit is broken/disconnected (no blown fuses, but the end device (rear defroster is not getting any power).

Yeah i meant break not short... No sparks