Pop/clunk in left rear?

[laneo9417]

How else can it be done? :scratch: Lubricate, put one end on the ground and push. Don't cut the new bushings.

Wasn't sure, never done this before. I've seen that the OEMs are pre lubricated but what should I use if extra lube is neded?

 

[swshawaii]

Any heavy waterproof grease will suffice, for a while. If you're up to it, add zerks to your stock brackets.
Cost is about $1 for two grease fittings available anywhere. Use 45 or 90 degree fittings for shock clearance.

http://www.mysporttrac.com/mysporttrac/projects/GreasableEEBushings/GreasableEEBushings.htm

 

[laneo9417]

Thanks again for all your help. Sorry for the thousands of questions!

 

[swshawaii]

No problem, here to help. Keep us posted on your progress, follow ups are always nice! GL

 

[laneo9417]

The ES 4.5153G (Graphite impregnated) kit may be the best option for you. ES does not sell the 19mm rear sway bar frame bushings separately, and the only other replacement I've seen is OEM. You will need to reuse all the hardware except for the bottom end link bolts included in the kit. Get under there and give all the bolt threads a good soaking with PB Blaster or another comparable penetrant a few times before attempting to loosen. Don't recall the top bolt size, they are threaded into captive u-nuts held on the frame and can be stripped easily. Wire brush everything, paint, and use the supplied bushing lube from the kit.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4.5153

http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/26139/axle-assembly-removal-and-installation.pdf

swshawaii - can you resend me the torque spec link from the mysporttrac site? It worked origianlly but now it's not and I can't find it on that site

 

[swshawaii]

Rear sway bar axle bracket/bushings 30-42 ft/lbs.

Use blue Loctite on upper and lower end link bolt threads. (Upper 50-68 ft/lbs) (Lower 30-40 ft/lbs)
http://www.mysporttrac.com/~library/26139/bar-and-link-removal-and-installation.pdf

 

[laneo9417]

I finally tackled this project yesterday. I was able to get access to a full service DIY shop that included a swing arm lift which made this work much easier. I drenched the nuts and bolts with PB blaster the night before and I was amazed how easy they came off...even with 16+ years of rust I was able to remove everything with hand tools with the exception of the bottom bolt on the RR end link - used the impact gun for that one. The whole project only took a little over two hours and went without a hitch. The rear end definitely does not clunk like it used to which was the main goal of this project. Here are some pics of the final install:

LR end link

LR sway bar bushing

RR end link

Mid winter bath

Thanks to everyone for their help!!!

 

[laneo9417]

So it's been a little over 2 weeks since I replaced the endlinks and bushings in the rear and I can definitely tell a difference in the handling around corners but the clunk that I experienced is still occuring. I previously thought it was coming from the rear but now I think it may be coming from the middle of the truck on the driver's side? :scratch:

While the truck was up on the lift I checked out all the body mounts and the sway bar bushings in the front and everything seemed ok (they definitely weren't destroyed like the old bushings on the original rear endlinks). The truck runs great aside for the clunks going over bumps and heading into turns so I'm kind of obsessed on getting it in tip top shape. Is there anything else that could be the source of this noise other than new leafs, shackles, etc in the rear?