Popping/grinding in steering when turning

[rmkilc]

You are around 16 months of using this and notice no noise? I would be curious to see your results after this amount of time has passed and the wear level on your fix.

I've been doing my best to try to isolate this popping noise I started having after a new K-member/control arm/inner tie rod were replaced as a result of a wreck. Later had my axle on my driver side replaced as well and this noise is still present. Only thing I can narrow it down to is the washer/bushing that you have figured out.

Correct, no noise after 16 months and about 16,000 miles. When the OEM bushing separates so the rubber and metal washer are no longer one unit, the washer slides back and forth and gets caught up at an angle on the teeth of the rack. This is what causes the noise each time it gets hung up on a tooth and is forced until it slips off.

Even if my method eventually fails, since it's all plastic, there should be no noticeable hang up.

 

[Exploder82]

As promised, coming back here with resolution. Hold my beer.
Here are the parts I purchased:
Amazon product ASIN B01N1P0T20
Worked like a charm. I first installed one spacer, put it back together and tested, it was not enough, so I put second
stopper, that was Perfect. So I ended up with 2 spacers on each side.
Spacer spec is as following: 6.5mm depth, about 23mm inner, 32mm outter diameter. The great part is that its plastic and meant
to spread apart.
The passenger side shaft is 30mm, inner diameter of the rack tube is about 47mm
The driver side shaft is 28mm, inner diameter of the rack tube is about 47mm

Here are various Ford spacer part numbers I found
N804842-S Steering Limiter - 6.5mm <- this is the ones I bought
N808506-S Steering Limiter - 10.65mm (blue)
N807853-S Steering Limiter - 2.4mm
W705003-S Steering Limiter - 4.25mm
W705004-S Steering Limiter - 7.25mm

Unfortunately I dont know original thickness of the limit stoppers, so best I can guess is that they are more than 6.5 mm and less than 13mm.

Here are pictures of the completed job. Spacers fit snug, I snapped them right after inner tie rod at the outer edge of rack.
They stay in place and not gonna move anywhere.

Picture of single spacer

View attachment 176113

Rubbing mark on wheel well liner
View attachment 176114


Rubbing mark on Lower control arm

View attachment 176115

Passenger side with two spacers

View attachment 176116

Driver side with two spacers

View attachment 176117


Driver side, shows the inner tube
View attachment 176118

I am fully confident in this repair, feel free to spent $15 on 6 spacers, vs $1500 on a new Rack.
Nice job Ford.

Thank you very much for this. Did you have to remove the inner tie rods to do this or did the stops just spread open to slip over? Also, I know this is a very old thread and I came across it.

 

[gideon123]

Mine broke years ago and I haven't bothered getting the rack replaced. I just make a sharp turn slowly and there's no popping noise, also making sure not to turn the wheel to it's limit. Since then, no issues.

No point getting fixed.

 

[rmkilc]

Thank you very much for this. Did you have to remove the inner tie rods to do this or did the stops just spread open to slip over? Also, I know this is a very old thread and I came across it.

No inner tie rod removal for any stop like this that can be spread open to slip over the rack.

 

[Exploder82]

No inner tie rod removal for any stop like this that can be spread open to slip over the rack.

Thanks. Also, this didn’t last long did it?

 

[rmkilc]

Thanks. Also, this didn’t last long did it?

I didn't use that style for very long. I would guess for long term they won't hold up.

 

[Shelfish]

I know this post was a very long time ago, but I am intrigued by the possibility it raises. My 2013 Explorer Limited with 70k miles exhibits the exact symptoms you reference in your comment. I recall having a 90's Pontiac Bonneville which made the same sounds. Turns out the problem was rusty strut bearings. I had an out of state shop check the Explorer a few months back and they suggested a bad rack, and said the sound seemed to be internal. I wonder if they overlooked this other possibility. Thanks for making the post!!

 

[peterk9]

^^ Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[MrGato]

My solution has been holding up well. It feels good when it hits the end stops and there hasn't been any problems. One of these days when I have the wheels off I need to pull the boots off the rack and take a look and see how the plastic donuts are holding up but so far I haven't had a reason to look because it's been working great.

Alright I've been meaning to write this up but I keep forgetting. This is what I did a month and a half ago with great results so far.

I ordered a foot of 2" diameter UHMW rod from McMaster-Carr to make new end stops out of.

I removed the driver's side end stop to check it's condition and see if I could get measurements if it hadn't came apart yet into a hundred pieces. It was still intact but the rubber was beginning to separate. There is also a plastic split washer that sits behind the end stop.

View attachment 319052

The entire stack sits in there like this with the top facing outward. My plan was to machine new parts to replace the end stops but still use the split plastic washers. The thickness of the end stop measured out to 0.5" exactly.

View attachment 319053

I machined two new end stops with an OD of 1.85", an ID of 1.2", and of course a thickness of 0.5". I did have to make the ID bigger after test fitting but I can't remember exactly how big it was. Maybe 1.25"?

View attachment 319051

Completed new end stops.

View attachment 319055

Here is a completed end stop next to an original, both sitting on top of the split plastic washers.

View attachment 319054

Driver's side installed.

View attachment 319056

Passenger side installed. With the OD dimensions I used, they slipped in there like the originals and can be removed just as easily.

View attachment 319057

I did end up buying a cheap inner tie rod tool so I could get the inner tie rods removed. It worked great.

You have any for sale ?

 

[peterk9]

You have any for sale ?

Welcome to the Forum.

Peter

 

[lorii]

Hey guys, I know there are quite of bit of popping/clicking/grinding steering threads already out there, however a lot of them have been consolidated to one thread, even though they have different causes of the problem, which makes it a bit of a mess.

Anyway, lately at slow speeds and turning, there seems to be popping sounds somewhere in the steering system. I took the wheels off and supported the front end and while turning the wheels left and right, I can feel the popping/grinding happening by the inner tie-rod, right as it goes in to the rack housing (see pic). It does not happen every time, but mostly happens as I am turning right.

Has anyone else had this issue? If so, what was the cause. I do not think this is related to the TSB regarding the "clicking" that happens at the CV joint. Personally, I would just replace the whole tie rod assembly (inner, shaft, and outer tie rod end) myself no questions asked, however I noticed there was a recall associated with the steering rack so thought it would be best to let the dealer take a look at it first in case it does happen to be a chewed up rack gear (or pinion).

I have an appointment at the dealer for Monday morning, but would love some insight on some of your experiences. Thanks to all.


My 2011 is doing this also unfortunately, it sucks bcuz my vehicle is still like new! Yes I've put the miles on, don't beat on it but I've had control arms done, and much more still that awful clunking, I also know whenever front end work is done ya need an alignment, which was also done. I'm super frustrated.