popping grinding

[88mustanggt]

well first off i would like to say this is my first thread and most not my last on this form. me and my girl are buying an exlorer this weekned and moving up to the snow next week.

we have looked at least 10 exloders and so far have had this one problem with 2 of them. gona get a 2nd gen

PROBLEM
when in 4hi and it doesnt want to turn at all with out binding, sounds like the world is coming to an end up front. now we have test drove and tested the 4wd in all of them but only 2 had this problem but the owners said the 4wd worked perfect. what causes this? is there diffrent 4x4 setups on diffrent moddels? forgive me i am a newb with explorers.

now after reading several posts i now know you cant engage on dry pavement. however all the others had no problems on dry pavement and one that did pop and gridn and bind was in the middle of a downpore. leads me to next question. so does that mean you cant use 4x4 unless theres like no traction because i want my girl to be able to drive to school 2 miles a way with 4wd on and not be ripping apart the front drivtrain if it grabs some patches of dry pavment.

 

[Eneurb]

4X4 is designed to be operated in low traction conditions. Driving in 4X4 (especially turning) when on dry pavement will create a whole orchestra of noises, and cause premature wear mainly to your tires, and can put a bit of stress on the front axle components, but it isn't going to grenade on you just because you drove on a little pavement.

 

[88mustanggt]

so why did 8 or 9 of them not do this and seemed to drive on dry pavement just fine while only 2 of them had this problem? are these 2 the only good ones ?

 

[Eneurb]

If you can make a turn with the steering wheel in a full lock on dry pavement with the system in 4X4 hi or low, and the steering will does not jerk and/or you don't get popping noises, it isn't working. If it is in 4X4 auto, you won't necessarily get this driveline wind-up.

 

[Bronco638]

It would help if you posted the model year(s) of the Explorers you're testing as well as the engine displacement (4.0 or 5.0). 1995-96 has a vacuum disconnect in the front axle to keep drivetrain bind to a minimum. 1997+ doesn't have this but has a magnetic clutch in the t-case instead. The more info you can provide, the more we can help.

Dave.

 

[88mustanggt]

1997 xlt 4.0, and i would expect a bind at full or close to full lock but didnt want to do anything but stright.

 

[88mustanggt]

this is the one we are intrested in.

http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...&advanced=n&start_year=1981&color=&cardist=26

thank you guys for help i can already tell this is going to be an addicting board to read!!

 

[Bronco638]

1997 xlt 4.0, and i would expect a bind at full or close to full lock but didnt want to do anything but stright.

Sorry, I don't quite understand this sentence.

The truck looks nice and seems to be very competitively priced. I have a '96 and the 4WD system on my truck is different from the '97. That truck doesn't have the vacuum disconnect front axle. I believe it uses the ABS sensors to detect slip and then route power to the front axle. However, if you're expirencing binding, then the 4x4 system is working (a good sign). However, it may not be working correctly. You may have to wait for some other Forum members to chime in that know the 97+ system better than I do.

Sorry - Dave.

 

[88mustanggt]

thank you dave for your insight, so do the 97+ with track control engage the 4wd when slip is detected? vs 96- only engage when you engage it.? sorry i dont know much about 4wd but am very intrested in learing. i just cant fegure out what would cause it to not want to turn. more help is greatly needed we need to buy this weekend and people are presusring us into a nissan or toyota and im a ford guy so ya you guys know whats up.

 

[Bronco638]

Actually, I think the systems in the '96 and '97 are the same. It's how they deal with drivetrain bind that's different. In my truck, the passenger side front CV shaft is physically disconnected from the axle shaft (by a sliding coupling internal to the axle tube). In the '97, the t-case allows slippage thru the magnetic clutch. However, driveline bind is caused by both front wheels being driven (the inner wheel, in a turn, turns slower than the outer wheel). So, you should experience little to no bind while driving straight. Driveline bind will increase in direct proportion to the amount you turn the steering wheel. The tighter the turn, the more bind and therefore the more difficult to drive.

In retrospect, it sounds as if everything is work correctly.

Where are you moving to?

D.

 

[88mustanggt]

flagstaff and im thinking some 31 10.5 15s are in order as well

 

[Bronco638]

31s will fit, no problem. If you want a little more ground clearance, you can adjust the front torsion bars (TT) up to 2". Adding shackles, Add-a-Leafs or F150 springs will get you the same in the back. A simple 2" (or 3") body lift will provide room for bigger tires (32 or 33).

You're gonna find out how addicting this becomes..............

 

[88mustanggt]

im already geting addicted, im leaving my babey here in phx (5.0 mustang) and will need a new toy to keep my bussey, i always have to be tinkering. do you know of a good way to test the 4wd to make sure it works properly?

 

[Bronco638]

Take it off road (gravel, dirt, sand road is fine) so that the drivetrain bind isn't so noticeable. Have an observer (your g/f?) ensure the front wheels are pulling (you should be able to feel this thru the steering wheel). Now, take it out of 4WD and try again. The binding sensation should disappear completely.

 

[88mustanggt]

anyone know of other things to look at like half shafts or whatnots i dono , its like 30-45 min drive to look at this thing and i want to buy it today or tomarow if the 4wd is in good working order, sense everything else is clean as a wislte