Possible new explorer for me

[Real_texan]

im gonna to check out a 1996 explorer with 70000 miles on it. It there any problems/concerns that I need to check out before purchasing it.

 

[Rick]

SOHC engines are known for timing chain issues.

70,000 is low mileage though so you may luck out and get good life out of an SOHC with 70k. If it's making any noises at all... Forget it.

Make sure the transmission feels like it's working well. Again at 70k there shouldn't be any issues, but you never can tell why someone is selling it.

 

[Real_texan]

SOHC engines are known for timing chain issues.

70,000 is low mileage though so you may luck out and get good life out of an SOHC with 70k. If it's making any noises at all... Forget it.

Make sure the transmission feels like it's working well. Again at 70k there shouldn't be any issues, but you never can tell why someone is selling it.

What kind of noise would I hear. It's also a v-6

 

[Machine090767]

70,000 miles for a 20 year old explorer is suspiciously low. is the odometer a 4 or 5 digit?
(my old 95 ranger still had the 4 digit)

 

[Real_texan]

70,000 miles for a 20 year old explorer is suspiciously low. is the odometer a 4 or 5 digit?
(my old 95 ranger still had the 4 digit)

It has the extra digit. 070142 is what is shown

 

[swshawaii]

1996 4.0L OHV or 4.9L (5.0) V8 only.
http://www.explorerforum.com/ntrprize/spec1996.htm
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?link-forums/ford-explorer-specifications-specs.105/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Explorer#Second_generation_.281995.E2.80.932001.29

 

[chefduane]

70k on a '96 is extremely suspiciously low for an original engine vehicle! My '98 SOHC has 209k on it. Guys, correct me if I am wrong, but if someone drops a new engine in a drivetrain, can't the odo be turned back? What a about a re-built? Maybe that's the case? I would agree if there are any rattle noises at all, move on. But if it checks out at 70k and is solid, I would immediately switch to a full synthetic (I used M1 Hi-Mileage and a M1 premium filter) and drive it away.

 

[toypaseo]

70,000 miles for a 20 year old explorer is suspiciously low.

70k on a '96 is extremely suspiciously low for an original engine vehicle!

Suspicious, maybe. Not suspicious if the owner was elderly, or if the vehicle was just a vacation house vehicle, or if the vehicle was just a winter vehicle, for example.

I have an aunt with a gen2 Explorer. She's elderly, and it was her and my uncle's winter vehicle before he passed away. I think it has under 80K.

My parents are elderly. They have a 2001 Toyota Avalon, and a 2005 Toyota 4Runner. Both are below average miles. I'll have to check...

 

[koda2000]

SOHC engines are known for timing chain issues.

70,000 is low mileage though so you may luck out and get good life out of an SOHC with 70k. If it's making any noises at all... Forget it.

Make sure the transmission feels like it's working well. Again at 70k there shouldn't be any issues, but you never can tell why someone is selling it.

Good news! A '96 wouldn't have a SOHC engine. I believe '97 was the first year for the SOHC availability. OHV and V8 (in the 4 door) only.

I'm pretty sure that in GA if the vehicle has over 100,000 miles on it there is no odometer promise of correct mileage associated with a purchase. Maybe I'm wrong, but I heard this somewhere.

70K in 20 years is suspiciously low miles, but if the PO is old it's possible. It should be pretty obvious by examining the condition of the vehicle if the mileage seems correct.

 

[96eb96]

96 from a no rust state is a good catch. Either V6 or V8. There are a few minor things but overall it is a good year. I would check things like the blend door and the front end.

There are no timing chain issues, noises or serious transmission problems, it has the 4spd for both engines. If it checks out I wouldn't hesitate to buy it. It is an extremely reliable vehicle.

 

[Real_texan]

Well I checked it out. It was in OK shape. There was no air, passenger window didn't work. Suspension was worn. And a couple of minor things. He was asking 1200. I offer 750 since there was no air. Gotta have air in Texas. He just counter 950. What do you guys think

 

[koda2000]

I guess it depends on whether you can do the repairs yourself, or have to pay someone. The A/C could be something relatively minor or something quite costly. The window's not a big deal. If you can do the repairs yourself and use some salvage yard parts where possible you can probably sink a grand in it and not be upside-down paying $950.

 

[Real_texan]

I guess it depends on whether you can do the repairs yourself, or have to pay someone. The A/C could be something relatively minor or something quite costly. The window's not a big deal. If you can do the repairs yourself and use some salvage yard parts where possible you can probably sink a grand in it and not be upside-down paying $950.

I could do the a/c myself but it's probably gonna need everything replace. I just have to get someone to pull a vaccum and put a charge. Also the hot/cold level seem to be stripped, there was no resistance when changing it hot or cool. It seem to accelerate very slow. Is that just the nature of the beast

 

[chefduane]

I have never driven an OHV so I can't comment on the acceleration issue.

Does the A/C simply blow warm air all the time, or do you get *some* cool air when it is on MAX A/C? You might try just doing a recharge with R-134a and see what you get. If there is a leak somewhere you'll know soon enough when it stops blowing cold air. If it's a blend door/actuator issue then I might be able to help you there as I have a new Gen2 Dorman door/actuator that I never used. The cabin A/C panel can probably be pulled from a local yard.
(If you are in the Dallas area PM me, I know where they are located.)

If you are handy with normal garage tools you probably can do the suspension work yourself. Shocks, ball joints, control arms, sway bar and end link bushings, tie rods, and even hubs/bearings, are easy enough to do it you have a reasonable set of garage tools and the gumption to do it. Brakes are a piece of cake. Use the Forum as a resource and also U-toob a topic and there are vids that will take you through it. I think 1A-Auto also has some vids on their site.

Edit: I should preface the above by saying you might want to first invest in a good floor jack and a set of stands. Don't skimp on either, your life depends on them never failing.

 

[koda2000]

I could do the a/c myself but it's probably gonna need everything replace. I just have to get someone to pull a vaccum and put a charge. Also the hot/cold level seem to be stripped, there was no resistance when changing it hot or cool. It seem to accelerate very slow. Is that just the nature of the beast

The OHV V6 motors are the lowest level of HP available, so they're not exactly quick. As far as the hot/cold level, are you talking about the knob on the dash? If so, it operates a vacuum motor on the heater control valve and activates a small electric motor in the blend door actuator, there's very little resistance to te knob when you move it from hot to cold. If it turns out you need a temp switch, I have a spare one somewhere.

 

[rathrbcruisin]

if the body is in good shape, and the engine runs good no ticks or leaks and the tranny shifts fine, I'd buy it. replacing shocks, bushings, control arms, should be expected as something needed on a 20 year old truck. I paid 3200 for mine and still had to do all of that. the 4.0 OHV is a great motor. i've had 4 rangers with OHV and they all ran great.

 

[96eb96]

The A/C could have a hole in the evaporator, that happened on mine. It is a good idea like you said to replace the receiver drier too, if the compressor exploded maybe flush or replace everything.

Also the blend door, but once the evap is off you could replace it thru the hole with some work and removing a tiny piece of the door. If the door wasn't replaced you will have issues with it. There is also a blend door motor above the door, you can probably do that under the dash, there are some tutorials. The parts are very inexpensive but there is a bit of sweat equity. Once that is fixed you will never have issues with the climate control.

Also replace the idler and tensioner pulleys, they are failure items, very cheap. There are wear items like alternators, fuel pumps, and and water pumps but if you have 70K you probably have another at least 50K+ till there are issues.

As for acceleration - yes, the 4.0 OHV is no race car engine, but it has some torque. Mine has 4.10 gears and pulls nicely, check the door sticker under AX. It is no sports car but it has respectable acceleration. I tried some with higher gearings and they are a bit sluggish. There could be other issues like a dirty maf sensor or tuneup, wires, vac leaks, etc.

Again the the 96 has the 4R55E, which is the last year for the 4 spd on the explorer, and is a bit more reliable than the 5spd. The SOHC engines were an option in 97, like others said avoid those. Pull the trans dipstick and check if the fluid isn't black.

Once you do all those repairs, replace the suspension with premium parts, change the fluids, it will be as reliable as any thing on a new car lot today. Problems will usually give lots of warning.
I had neighbors who bought brand new cars and they had to be towed on wrecker for no start and other problems that happened with no warning.

Most of my problems were due to rust out, driving it for years in the hills where they dump truckloads of highly corrosive salt for traction. Even still the frame has no rot, the only issues are the rocker panels and the plastic mouldings hide most of it. The paint still looks good if waxed. That is not an issue in Texas.

 

[Real_texan]

I have never driven an OHV so I can't comment on the acceleration issue.

Does the A/C simply blow warm air all the time, or do you get *some* cool air when it is on MAX A/C? You might try just doing a recharge with R-134a and see what you get. If there is a leak somewhere you'll know soon enough when it stops blowing cold air. If it's a blend door/actuator issue then I might be able to help you there as I have a new Gen2 Dorman door/actuator that I never used. The cabin A/C panel can probably be pulled from a local yard.
(If you are in the Dallas area PM me, I know where they are located.)

If you are handy with normal garage tools you probably can do the suspension work yourself. Shocks, ball joints, control arms, sway bar and end link bushings, tie rods, and even hubs/bearings, are easy enough to do it you have a reasonable set of garage tools and the gumption to do it. Brakes are a piece of cake. Use the Forum as a resource and also U-toob a topic and there are vids that will take you through it. I think 1A-Auto also has some vids on their site.

Edit: I should preface the above by saying you might want to first invest in a good floor jack and a set of stands. Don't skimp on either, your life depends on them never failing.

The air is extremely hot, the compressor doesn't even kick on.

 

[koda2000]

The air is extremely hot, the compressor doesn't even kick on.

I agree, my Walmart sells cans of R134A for $4.99. You'll need a hose, but it's worth a try. You can also try running a jumper wire to the A/C clutch briefly to see if it will kick in.

Lots of stuff to check:
- Leaks (condenser, evaporator, lines, hoses, compressor se)
- Low refrigerant level
- High refrigerant level
- Low pressure switch
- High pressure switch
- A/C clutch
- A/C compressor
- Rusted out accumulator/drier on years they used foam insulation

 

[drdoom]

Koda I agree the accumulator is likely rusted.