JonathanExp
Elite Explorer
- Joined
- August 26, 2018
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 23
- City, State
- USA living in AUS
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2002 explorer limited
Here are my pics and write up for a 3rd gen RAM Mount for the dash so that I could use a tablet for maps and vehicle information while underway.
This process involves removing the dash which will take a few hours. If that is something you want to undertake I would consider proactively replacing other things while you are there such as the HVAC heater blend door actuators or the heater core.
I used RAM mount hardware - tough-ball M10-1.5 x 25mm threaded stud with C-ball, standard length dual 1.5 inch socket arm, 2.5 inch diameter round base with C-ball, tablet mount tab-tite for 8 inch tablets (which will change depending on your tablet). If I had to change anything I would probably move the tough-ball mounting hole a few mils to either side of center because of the proximity to the solar sensor wiring harness which I had to trim some.
Because you are installing something above the dash that could be a risk during an accident I would not go cheap with your hardware. Also, there may be driver visibility rules in your state. Install at your own risk. Enjoy.
Because of the tight fit you will need to test fit a bunch so you do not have to pull the dash multiple times.
Try to get a good feeling for the angle as it will drive your mount angles.
Go ahead and remove the dash once you have taken many measurements. Highly recommend using a workshop manual such as Haynes.
www.explorerforum.com
I used high tensile steel that I cut from scrap.
I outlined the mount on paper with rough metric dimensions.
I do not have great images on what the mount is bolted to but there is a metal frame under the center of the dash that is used to bolt to the firewall. This mounting part eventually sat flat with the frame.
Test fitting. The gold colored bolt is temporary and will be replaced by the factory bolt that holds the dash to the firewall.
Side view from the driver's side. Top of dash on the right. You will need to drill a hole for the big bolt at the bottom of the image. The middle part of the bracket under the wire was modified for the final version so that I had three points of contact to the dash frame to mount bolts through.
A view from the passenger side.
Need to trim the dash vent cover.
More test fitting. I would probably move the tough-ball mounting hole a few more mils to either side of center because of the proximity to the solar sensor wiring harness which I had to trim some.
Testing the window angle based on the initial measurements before reinstalling the dash.
The mount is very solid. I put foam there just in case because I was going over lots of corrugated roads.
I installed a USB power source behind the glove box and ran the cord there.
This process involves removing the dash which will take a few hours. If that is something you want to undertake I would consider proactively replacing other things while you are there such as the HVAC heater blend door actuators or the heater core.
I used RAM mount hardware - tough-ball M10-1.5 x 25mm threaded stud with C-ball, standard length dual 1.5 inch socket arm, 2.5 inch diameter round base with C-ball, tablet mount tab-tite for 8 inch tablets (which will change depending on your tablet). If I had to change anything I would probably move the tough-ball mounting hole a few mils to either side of center because of the proximity to the solar sensor wiring harness which I had to trim some.
Because you are installing something above the dash that could be a risk during an accident I would not go cheap with your hardware. Also, there may be driver visibility rules in your state. Install at your own risk. Enjoy.
Because of the tight fit you will need to test fit a bunch so you do not have to pull the dash multiple times.
Try to get a good feeling for the angle as it will drive your mount angles.
Go ahead and remove the dash once you have taken many measurements. Highly recommend using a workshop manual such as Haynes.
3rd Gen Dash Removal Pics
I removed my dash last year to replace the HVAC recirculating/fresh air door (1L2Z-18B259-AC), the heater blend door actuators (Dorman 604-207), and to install a filter (WIX 24784) in the recirculating box (thanks to Hitchhikingmike's Sept 2011 post). I am not going to provide a step by step...
I used high tensile steel that I cut from scrap.
I outlined the mount on paper with rough metric dimensions.
I do not have great images on what the mount is bolted to but there is a metal frame under the center of the dash that is used to bolt to the firewall. This mounting part eventually sat flat with the frame.
Test fitting. The gold colored bolt is temporary and will be replaced by the factory bolt that holds the dash to the firewall.
Side view from the driver's side. Top of dash on the right. You will need to drill a hole for the big bolt at the bottom of the image. The middle part of the bracket under the wire was modified for the final version so that I had three points of contact to the dash frame to mount bolts through.
A view from the passenger side.
Need to trim the dash vent cover.
More test fitting. I would probably move the tough-ball mounting hole a few more mils to either side of center because of the proximity to the solar sensor wiring harness which I had to trim some.
Testing the window angle based on the initial measurements before reinstalling the dash.
The mount is very solid. I put foam there just in case because I was going over lots of corrugated roads.
I installed a USB power source behind the glove box and ran the cord there.
