Power issue... I don't think it's supposed to do this. (Video Inside)

[Blacksheep Josh]

So basically just watch teh video. As I'm driving the battery gauge will read low, if I give it some gas it'll come back up. Here is what I've done so far:
-Battery tested, Verdict: Battery holds charge fine
-Alternator tested, Verdict: Charging correctly and putting out sufficient amps
-Power wires replaced, from Battery to Solenoid, Battery to Starter, and Solenoid to Starter
-All ground cables replaced that connect to engine/chassy
-Extra grounding cable from body to battery
-Extra wire from battery to front of under hood fuse box.

I'm at a loss. It used to only be bad during wet weather but now it's a constant problem. The only thing aftermarket installed are two 12" Kicker CVR's and a 7 in 1 L.E.D. light kit, but the problem occurs even when both systems are turned off.

Any idea will be looked at and appreciated, now for the video. It's really bad as you can see.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Belt was also changed to. I thought it might've just been slipping or worn really bad but no go. I've done some searching and I'm leaning towards grounds not being that well and also completing the Big 3 upgrade. I had a wire from the B+ side of the alternator to the battery before with nothing else, but I'm going to add that wire back, the extra ground wire from the bottom of the alternator bracket to the battery, and also try upgrading my battery terminals from the bare wire just mashed between to actually "tinned" into a loop and using a wing-nut style battery terminal like my negative side all ready is. I'm thinking it's corroding faster than I can keep up with it...

 

[my pos mounty]

I cant tell if the lights are getting brighter as you "goose" the accelerator. If it does, wouldn't that point to a bad voltage regulator in the alternator? Other than that, im of no use.

 

[Masterd]

Judging by the voltage gauge itself, something is wrong with the alt / regulator, or maybe a ground somewhere.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Is the regular ON the alternator or inside it? Is it something easily replaced?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Search directed me to this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=193296

I'm speaking about post 4.

I'm going to try and install a new battery terminal so that there is plenty of good contact between cable and terminal, I feel that "tinning" the wires into a loop will yield better contact, and be cheaper as well. I all ready have the wing-nut battery terminal, just need to have someone "tin" the wires into the "loop connector".

If that doesn't work I'll look at the regulator. When I was installing/removing the wire from B+ side of the alternator to the battery the wire caught on the alternator adn sparked. Could this have blown the regulator?

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

The alternator in my Explorer now is a 130 amp alternator, I upgraded from the 95 amp.

Can I just pull the regulator off the 95 amp and install it on the 130 amp? Autozone and Advance list the same part so it should work both ways correct?

 

[yeah61794]

yeah if its the same part number than it is the same, just make sure the part number matches the part in the box, Ive had them do it a couple times where the part I got wasnt the same as the part number on the box.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I still have my old alternator, which was working properly before. It had a few dimming issues but they went away when I replaced all the battery cables so I'm goign to pull the regulator off of my old alternator and install it on the one in the vehicle now.

 

[Tbars4]

...Did you pull your alt and battery and had them both, bench tested separately?

..It is common for the crash cart test to read everything is fine when it is not...

..If it were me, the first thing I would do after the bench test of both, is disconnect the aftermarket items totally to rule them out of the equation, then go from there...

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Just got back from advance auto. Bench yielded back Diode in each alternator I had.
The 130 amp and the 95 amp.
I've officially given up on this vehicle. It's killing me to... I never thought I'd be as upset as I am over a vehicle but this Explorer was the only thing I always had that was MINE. My parents split up, my Dad disowned me, my Mom favors my sister, my Explorer was the only thing I really liked to work on and do. And now I have to let it go.

I don't know why a diode in two alternators would go bad, I don't know where else to look. I just don't know anymore. I don't even have the money to replace or rebuild this alternator, I'm just out of options.

 

[Tbars4]

...Get some rest and start fresh tomorrow...

 

[my pos mounty]

If I'm not mistaken, wouldn't bad connections fry diodes? Check all your aftermarket add-ons. Be 100% sure the wiring is absolutely top notch, check the wiring coming off the back of the alternator as well. Any knicked or chafed wires? Make sure all the connections and connectors are clean. Repair/replace as neccessary. Seems rather excessive to toss your Ex over a little gremilin, step back, chill for a second, breathe deep and dive right back in.


Any one else have anything to add?????

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Okay.
I was at work tonight and something I"ve used in the past which I used tonight helped. I watch "House M.D." a lot and he uses "Differential Diagnosis" to diagnose what the problem is when it's not something obvious. I believe I had done that.

I did part of the "Big 3" upgrade a while back, used 4 gauge wire from the B+ side of the alternator to the battery. I know one night my battery died so a buddy jumped me off, the wire that was connected from the battery to the alternator didn't have any type of protection device so curretn only traveled one way. So the alternator got the full blow of the battery from the jumpstart.

I also think it might have been when I was trying to figure out a gremlin/charging issue again, I removed said wire and it touched the alternator and sparked pretty good. I'm thinking one of these two mishaps on my part possibly caused damage to the diode adn it's just done itself in.

I'm goign to get another alternator from a local store that has a warranty on it so if it does happen again I'll be covered.

Whew. I hope this'll do it...l

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I've been doing more research since my breakdown (emotional and the explorer's...).

I think a combination of what I mentioned above and also the battery being dead could've caused my alternator to overheat, leading to it basically killing itself.

I'm going to give it one more try, I'm asking my Mom for an alternator for Christmas lol. I figure if I go through the store and get a replacement with a warranty then I should be good if it goes out again.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

Somebody look through th elast few and confirm or rule out what I've suspected?

 

[my pos mounty]

I did part of the "Big 3" upgrade a while back, used 4 gauge wire from the B+ side of the alternator to the battery. I know one night my battery died so a buddy jumped me off, the wire that was connected from the battery to the alternator didn't have any type of protection device so curretn only traveled one way. So the alternator got the full blow of the battery from the jumpstart.

I also think it might have been when I was trying to figure out a gremlin/charging issue again, I removed said wire and it touched the alternator and sparked pretty good. I'm thinking one of these two mishaps on my part possibly caused damage to the diode adn it's just done itself in.

I'm goign to get another alternator from a local store that has a warranty on it so if it does happen again I'll be covered.

Whew. I hope this'll do it...l

Jumpstarting can and will fry diodes and voltage regulators in the alternator. Just having your battery low on charge and over-using your alternator to "build up" the charge can do that as well. I fried my alternator because I bought a new battery and didnt charge that battery all the way.

Second, "Sparking" the wires off the back of the alternator could fry it as well.

 

[Gus Gorilla]

I tell you what. I see this all day long. Aftermarket alternators cause gremlins. Don't get me wrong, generally I personally buy the cheapest parts possible with the exception of brakes/steering. But if I had an aftermarket brand component that I suspected it would get the axe. I have seen mechanics install three and four alternators in a row until they found a good rebuild or aftermarket assembly. Thats 3-4 "new in box" components! Does your EX have a problem?......very possibly yes. Just keep in mind that your parts might be the source of the problem. Plus with your aftermarket modifications your adding load, which shortens life span. As you suspected I have also seen bad batteries overwork an alternator to death. I've personally seen alternators hot enough to boil water off the case because of the battery. Oh, and definitely get a warranty.

 

[Blacksheep Josh]

I don't think installing a second subwoofer helps... I was draining the battery pretty good when it hit hard... so I'm sure that added to it. What would be the BEST solution to fixing this? Bigger battery? A second battery installed in the rear? A capacitor?

It was dimming the lights when it hit hard when I only had one sub, but it's putting out 700 watts rms, no telling the max. Before I turn it on again, I want to make sure everything is how it's supposed to be.

So once I get a new alternator, I'll charge/replace the battery as needed before cranking over the car so as to not overcharge the battery. After I install the new alternator/battery I'll need to fix my power suppy to the amp in the back.

What would you suggest?

 

[Gus Gorilla]

I think you need a combination of your own recommendations. A capacitor, and a stout battery. It sounds like you already took care of getting good battery connections and grounding. Get a Cap. Second battery?...not so much. Based on your truck, you were right in getting the 130A alternator. It couldn't hurt.