Power slot rotors

[SLEEPER]

Well I have the power slot rotors and the carbon metallic pads from performance friction,(the whole set up from EE). Well I've had the rears on for probably about 9k mi and the fronts on for about 3k. I have an awd if that effects the performance at all, but the problem is, they screech! It isn't all the time, but it seems like if I do a good amount of breaking, not even anything abrupt or out of normal driving, they screech! The performance out of them is great and the stopping distance is much superior to stock but the noise is driving me crazy! Now I'm pretty sure they are installed OK but I don't know why they are doing it. If you break real lightly or hard they are fine, it is only during normal moderate breaking, and now that it is summer and I cruise with the windows down, it is EXTREMELY annoying. I changed breaks to stop the noise, and now it is worse. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Bronco638]

Squealing is caused by vibration (of the pads). I would contact EE and ask them if they recommend any anti-vibration clips or compound.

 

[SLEEPER]

Thanks for the suggestion, i think I'll give that a try.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

ACDelco makes a great compound for brakes - I can't remember the name of it -- but we use it at work and it's nice. It comes out like a gel, and then after you put it on the back of the pads, it kind of sticks. It's good stuff. We haven't had any problems with it.

-Drew

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Autozone sells brake lubricant that works very well too. Just remeber, don't get anything on the friction surfaces, only the backs of the bads and the slides.

 

[jimbo74]

squealing is one hting, screeching is a whole noterh ballgame

 

[Oversquare]

Typical "performance" pads have a higher metallic compound. This will cause squealing/screeching and increased rotor wear. However, the performance pads usually have about 20% higher Coefficient of Friction, as well as much higher heat resistance.

I found that bringing performance pads to their highest operating temp will usually quiet them down. This is because you get full transfer of materials between the pads and the rotors and gives them a better friction surface. Try braking hard going downhill at high speeds or towing a load.

Also, try using the orange "disc brake anti-squeal" on the backs of the pads, between the shims and the pads. If you don't have extra shims, use it between the shim and the calipers.

Also, i use a graphite anti-squeal on the clips that locate the pad on the calipers. Use a thin layer between the clips and the backings of the pads to help center the pads and allow them to slide freely.

-B

 

[SLEEPER]

Well I haven't had a chance to work on the car yet. I don't think it is that the material isn't hot enough, infact they almost seem to squeal more when they are hot. I know that EE says that they make alittle noise when they are cold, but they seem to be fine right when I start going but once I start breaking a few times they start getting loud. I think I will try to relubricate the pins, and try some of the anti-squeal stuff for the back of the pads. Thanks for the suggestions guy's I will give them a try, hope they work!

 

[Bronco638]

One thing that did come to me, high performace pads usually require a "bedding in" period where all of the chemicals used in the manufacturing process release from the friction material ('out-gassing'). But, this doesn't normally cause squealing but does affect the stopping distance. Curious to hear the solution, keep us posted.

 

[CDW6212R]

All brakes require bedding in, some need more heat to do it. Drive them gently at first, and after a couple of days of babying them, press the brakes harder, for very short distances.

You should reach a point where you apply maximum pressure, for a complete 60-80mph stop. Until you reach the higher temperatures, the bedding isn't complete. Glazing is a possibility, which lessens brake performance, and often accompanies squealing.

Try to do as previously suggested by Oversquare. Apply the brakes full force at some higher speed, until stopped. Don't do this with fresh brakes, only when they should be almost bedded in. If there is any brake smell, or smoke, then they were not completely bedded in. After being properly bedded in, good brakes will not make any smell, or smoke. Good luck,

 

[SLEEPER]

Well I have already put thousands of miles on the pads and rotors. I bedded them in as the manufacturer had suggested and then some. I did put them on at different times but bedded them in both times. I even got the speeds up to 100 mph, and did a firm brake to a complete stop. The performance is deffinitly there, I can stop on a dime, and they are far supperior to the stock brakes, it is just at moderate stopping that they squeal. a very soft or a very firm braking and there is no noise, just moderate everyday driving. There is also no pulling or inconsistancy in the stopping power, I know that if the material isn't bedded in properly it can cause almost a jolting effect, but mine are smooth. I've been puzzled since I got them, I hope that the anti vibration stuff that was afore mentioned works, or I'm baffled. I have to wait till this weekend to work at it so after I experiment alittle bit I'll keep you guy's posted. Thanks for all the suggestions, if there are anymore they are all welcome.

 

[CDW6212R]

I understand that, because I have that happen more than once. The last time it was Performance Friction pads causing the noise.

It is most likely the compound, or your usage, or the rotors(glazing). I have been able to lessen it by changing brake pressures for a time. I think the pads are the most critical part though. That's where to shop around, and get the best pads you can.

You can change pads more easily(without having to turn rotor) with slotted or drilled rotors. You might just try to get a price in trade for a different pad, or trash them and buy something different.

I just bought another set of EBC pads for my 99 Explorer chassis. I have loved the wear that I am getting(43k) from them on my 98 Mountaineer. They were about $45 per end, delivered in two days. I have the rear on, and the fronts I bought as spares.

I have already mounted the larger 12" Sport Trac rotors onto my 99, requiring the Sport Trac spindles. I will sometime get around to fabricating mounts for four piston older Corvette calipers, onto 96 Cobra 13" rotors. Good luck,

 

[caveman1]

When you put on performance pads you should make sure the pads do not have squared edges.Round the edges or better yet put an angle on the pad edge.Do this to the edges that meet the disc.This is the only thing that stopped my squeel,I also had performance pads.I used those ceramic pads.They were expensive but definitly worth it.They have been on my truck for 2 years and they still look new.Thay cost 80 bucks for the front and 65 for the back.The most cost efficiant mad yet.