Power window issue...

[metal4life]

I got a '96 Sport, and in the process of adding some Dynamat to the passenger door, it seems my power windows have become inoperative. The power door locks work just fine, but both windows won't respond. I noticed the door courtesy and dome lights don't light anymore either, which leads me to the only fault I can think of, I accidentally crushed the courtesy lamp bulb in the door test closing it. I'm thinking it popped a fuse when I tried to pull the broken glass out and shorted the contacts.

So my question is, are the courtesy/dome lights connected to the power window circuit? Are there any other components I can check that are on that circuit where I might pinpoint the fault? I didn't mess with any wiring at all, tried to avoid them as much as possible and far as I could tell they all looked in decent condition. Took it to the dealer and they basically told me just to put all the door panels back on and reconnect everything and see if it fixes it...my gut's telling me that's not gonna help as I already tried to reconnect all the switches to no avail.

If it's something I did, it would have had to be in the passenger door, what would affect the driver's window also?

Everything was working fine until I pulled the door panel off and I took plenty care removing it.

Any help tracing this problem would be much appreciated.

 

[FIND]

First step would be to check all your fuses. Second would be taking it back apart and making sure you did not accidentally remove any connectors or damage any wiring. then unhook the window switches and check for power at the switches. Are there any other things in your car that are inoperative?

No, the courtesy lamps are not on the same circuit. They are on the same circuit as your dome lamps. Breaking a bulb would cause a short, and if they were energized, it would quickly blow a fuse.

 

[metal4life]

Omg how lame...I fixed it. Come to find out the fuse for the dome/courtesy lights, somehow, affects the power window circuit and someone had a 10A when it called for a 15A in position 27 in the block by the steering wheel. It was fried, I plugged a new one in and everything's back to normal. AFTER I tried checking the wires at the door jamb...which all seemed perfect by the way....seems every problem this truck has, even 16 years old, is all simple crap.