Powertrax Locker Expl 2000

[roverz]

Just got my Powertrax rear locker last night from Summit and need to quickly plan for the install?

What do i need to know that i dont know yet?

Do i have to pull the rear calipers or can i just under the Axel clip from the inside the pumpkin and slide the axel out?

Last time i tried to remove the rear rotor the parking brake would not let go of it and i finally gave it to my mechanic to fix, this time what should i try to get it to release if spinning the star doesnt work?

Regular Gear oil for the first 500 then go with Synthetic?

Any other work that i should do while down there?
Breather tube extension?
Gear drain or magnet or anything else?

Does anybody else plan on doing this mode should i take pictures and do a write up or it straight forward and easy?

 

[gmanpaint]

Hmmm, buy a new carrier pin bolt ($3) and throw away the one you remove.

Your sure you have an open carrier right? (just checking)

If you remove the E-brake cables, you should be able to leave the brakes intact when you remove the C-clips and slide the axles out a bit.

A decent Dino-dif fluid (75-140) for break in period, then a good synthetic (no additive) works just fine.

Extending the breather tube is always a good idea. I ran mine up to the backside of my pass side tail lights.

An aftermarket cover with a face fill hole is a great help.

There are other threads on this Mod here already, no need for a how to I don't think.
Have you looked in the driveline sub-forum?

 

[roverz]

Nope it is the Limitied slip unit but i did buy the right powertrax unit for this carrier...I think

Should the carrier pin bolt come from a specific source or just my Napa / Kragen?

I did want to add a aftermarket cover but most of them seem pretty pricey?

Searches dont show me any decent how to step by step with pictures for the powertrax swap thou?

 

[gmanpaint]

Double check the locker #. I do know they have a LS version, so hopefully you got the right one.

Dealership OEM bolt or Auto parts store sells the Dorman bolt for it. Both the same price.

The covers are worth the $$. The HD wheeling covers offer protection. The street offer an easy way of adding fluids. Both have style that makes your rig "POP".

I need to look around for some threads on this.

 

[roverz]

This is the unit i purchased that is supposed to work for the ford 8.8 limited slip carrier it cost more then the open diff carrier so i hope its the right one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWT-92-0688-3128/

 

[gmanpaint]

Yeah, the No-Slip works in your carrier. Dang those things got expensive! A Powertrak Lockright is half that amount.

 

[roverz]

Anybody have any other recommended 8.8 Rear Diff covers ?

 

[roverz]

Dang it the powertrax unit had already been opened from Summit and i am not taking any chances on getting a used or defunct part so now i have to return it and wait a few weeks for a replacement unit

 

[Maniak]

Anybody have any other recommended 8.8 Rear Diff covers ?

You can get some thick steel ones from places like Ballistic Fabrication, some with bearing cap preload screws and even some strong ones like Rock Crusher.

To make they purdy, you could always have them powder coated. Turdle on here coated my Rock Crusher cover..

This is mine.. Right after it was installed.

~Mark

 

[Happy Jack]

Yup! Had the same deal with Summit. And some of the parts had marks where they weren't repackaged correctly and hammered each other in the box. I contacted Power Trax and sent pics to them. They were really good and sent me replacement parts. Mine went in fine. A friend used the same one and we had trouble with the side washers. There is a go no go measurement. Might locate a source for side washers (used) in case you need this. We found some used ones that worked for his.

The cost is more than the Lock Right and an open diff. But if you have a factory LS and want a locker it is still less than buying a detroit and having it set up or buying an open carrier and having it set up.

Good luck. I hope you like yours as much as I do mine.

 

[roverz]

Thanks Happy Summit at least was cool and gave me an RMA and is drop shipping a new unit from the factory direct...they say.

Honestly who expects to get a opened package for a $500 piece of equipment no way was i taking that risk that someone had already messed with it.

 

[Happy Jack]

Yup! I odered mine form Summit and it had been opened. The parts have a special way to go in the box so they don't run into each other and cause damage. They didn't get it right on mine when they put stuff back in the box. Most likely the same thing that happened with you. Someone orders the wrong part number or is sent the wrong part and an exchanged or return is made and they send it out to the next guy. You can bet it will be sent out again as many times as needed by Summit.

You reuse your old side washers and the instructions have a measurement for you to take. Needs some room to fit and work but not too much. The instructions that come with the unit will have that info.

 

[roverz]

What is the dorman bolt i went to the auto store today and the only bolt they have is a the small dowel type bolt with threads on half of it that has to be removed before you can push the axel's in to get the c-clip off.

Is that the dorman bolt ?

 

[Maniak]

Dorman is a manufacturer of the bolt. They make all kinds of little things like that. The "Help" section stuff is also made by dorman.

The bolt that should be replaced is the one you described. The one you pull so you can pull the pin to get the c-clips out.

~Mark

 

[kert0307]

I thought powertrax had their own hardened pin for that...

 

[Elessar65]

I would go with a cover from Ruff Stuff. I have the same locker as you, and one of their covers. Its literally bullet proof, lol. 3/8" cover with 1/2" flange. I got mine with countersunk bolt holes, a fill plug (higher up for more fluid capacity) and a countersunk drain plug. The drain plug is REALLY nice to have, takes all of 10 minutes to change the fluid in it now. It came with all the bolts, the plugs, and a couple extra ones. I found this especially nice, since its easy to lose stuff like that (at least if you are me).
The install is simple as can be. I recommend using some axle grease on the parts to "glue" them together when you install them. You will understand what I mean when you do it. Just make sure everything lines up and the cross shaft should slide in without too much resistance. DO NOT use a hammer to get it in there, trust me on this one, lol. If it won't go in its because the teeth aren't meshed all the way around on it.
Good Luck and enjoy your new found traction!

 

[Elessar65]

I thought powertrax had their own hardened pin for that...

They have a hardened cross shaft, the Dorman part is the little bolt that holds the cross shaft into the carrier.

 

[roverz]

Awesome just ordered a Cover and the dorman bolt from Amazon thanks guys now it looks like i am going to be piling this work my 3" BL and an electric fan conversion all into one weekend as the wife and kids will be gone for the whole weekend, hopefully i can get it all done.

 

[roverz]

Anybody have the torque spec for the dorman bolt back into the carrier pin and housing?

 

[Happy Jack]

That should have some dried lock tight stuff on it. I just snug it up. It really doesn't hold anything. Just need it to be tight enough so the lock tight stuff keeps it from backing out. I use a wrench and they are pretty short at that small size. Just like you would a small machine screw. I've had them in so tight I had to use heat to get them out before. So no need to use extra lock tight or crank on it.