pre lube and centrifugal engine oil filters

[david4451]

You may well need a higher pressure pump especially with a newly built engine,
if you want the the premium product for pre lube look at Varna pre lube pumps.
They are around $600 with 1.75 gpm and 60 psi. I would expect you could find a better price as that is full retail.

 

[CDW6212R]

Bump for this great thread, I found it searching for "Amsoil bypass filter."

I've got another Explorer to work with, so the external filters for oil and ATF are on my mind again.

I like the 215 degree level for oil, so hopefully the 302 stock oil cooler will be plenty. Adding an Amsoil bypass filter and full flow filter should make capacity at least seven quarts, a good amount for severe duty, much better than five total.

Dale or others, I'd still love to hear good opinions about ATF temps. I do not like the concept of heating ATF with the radiator to 180* and using a small cooler in front. I'd prefer a thermostat controlled cooler system, and bring the temps down to a lower and narrower range. So what would the best ATF temps be, 100*, 120*, 140* or what? I tend to think 120 should be enough, but maybe 140 might be an ideal level.

For my mail truck I can justify adding the same Amsoil bypass filter and full flow filter for the transmission. I envision using the sandwich adapter with a thermostat in it to divert ATF to the front cooler. I have two Super Duty trans coolers that I got from eBay years ago. I'm wondering how much trouble it would be to modify the sandwich adapter thermostat to open sooner, at a temperature in the 130* range or so. That would stop a big cooler from slowing warm up time, and keep the ATF cooler. Skipping the radiator is my plan. I can see the capacity nearing 18 quarts that way, having a deep trans pan also. Stock is 12-13, the filters are a good 2-3, then the pan is two more.

Amsoil has free shipping now until tomorrow online, code is FREESHIPPING100.

 

[2000StreetRod]

150 deg. F

Don,

For my 5R55E I assume that the optimum internal temperature is 150 deg. F since that is what the internal thermostat is set to. I suspect that your 4R70W optimum temperature would be comparable.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'll get on those projects once I get my 5R55E truck running again. I'll do the trans filters for my new 98 truck then, the engine bypass systems next. I wish the V6 had the oil filter in the front, but I'll place the lines as intended for the 302 swap later. I see two "Y" blocks in the system, run the oil filters in parallel back to a basic adapter. I like the spot next to the frame behind the front body mount the best, maybe longer filters will fit their also.

 

[hondaslave1342]

electric pump?

Thanks for posting! You may have saved me $400. I've been planning an electric pump pre-oiler for a hopefully soon to be delivered 2003 Explorer Limited. Is the one shown below what you have?
View attachment 86768
It says C E on the bottom of the label. How did you determine the max temp of the oil? I couldn't find it specified.

Did you install an inline filter to prevent crud in the bottom of the oil pan being sucked into the pump gears?

Please provide details on the banjo/check ball arrangement.

I'm rebuilding a 4 valve 4.6L for the Limited and don't want to "dry start" it.

Did you ever install this..if so can you please give details. I have a 05 st and want to install some kind of pre- lube system..tensioner rattle at start up..thanks..i dont have the funds for a expensive setup

 

[2000StreetRod]

I purchased a used pre-oiler for marine engines but haven't installed it yet. It wasn't cheap and a new one (if still available) is expensive.

A forum member posted about installing an inexpensive pre-oiler a year or so ago but I can't find the post at this time.

 

[Paul Fithian]

I looked in to these systems several months ago.

I decided not to install one, as the cold start precedure I use is less expensive and more reliable.

Press the throttle all the way to the floor.

Crank engine until the idiot gauge shows oil pressure.

Lift your foot off of the throttle, the engine will start with no rattle or RPM flare.

 

[hondaslave1342]

I purchased a used pre-oiler for marine engines but haven't installed it yet. It wasn't cheap and a new one (if still available) is expensive.
View attachment 98199
A forum member posted about installing an inexpensive pre-oiler a year or so ago but I can't find the post at this time.

Thanks..much appreciated

 

[hondaslave1342]

I've added 2 more pics David sent me. Installed pump in battery tray location and the remote oil filter.

Sure wish we could view these pics koda..they are all blank on my side.....

 

[CDW6212R]

Sure wish we could view these pics koda..they are all blank on my side.....

You have to stop using Photobucket, plus tell everyone else to stop using them. They are a bad company, and this is the result.

 

[hondaslave1342]

You have to stop using Photobucket, plus tell everyone else to stop using them. They are a bad company, and this is the result.

Got it...thanks

 

[koda2000]

I guess photobucket changed something so the pics of david4451's system are no longer view-able.

Here's a list of parts I'd sourced to create a pre-oiler for around $200. Prices may have changed as I did this a while ago. As I recall, what david4451 photos showed are pretty much the parts listed below. He took oil from the oil pan drain plug, through the electric pump and then to the oil filter adapter to filter and pressurize the system. Biggest difference is that David made his own oil filter adapter and added a remote oil filter. Adding some sort of filter before the electric pump would be a real good idea.

Approximate costs:
22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

 

[koda2000]

I guess photobucket changed something so the pics of david4451's system are no longer view-able.

Here's a list of parts I'd sourced to create a pre-oiler for around $200. Prices/availability may have changed as I did this a while ago. As I recall, what david4451's photos showed are pretty much the parts listed below. He took oil from the oil pan drain plug, through the electric pump and then to the oil filter adapter to filter and pressurize the system. Biggest difference is that David made his own oil filter adapter and added a remote oil filter. Adding some sort of filter before the electric pump would be a real good idea.

Approximate costs:
22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

 

[hondaslave1342]

You have to stop using Photobucket, plus tell everyone else to stop using them. They are a bad company, and this is the result.

Got it...thanks

I guess photobucket changed something so the pics of david4451's system are no longer view-able.

Here's a list of parts I'd sourced to create a pre-oiler for around $200. Prices/availability may have changed as I did this a while ago. As I recall, what david4451's photos showed are pretty much the parts listed below. He took oil from the oil pan drain plug, through the electric pump and then to the oil filter adapter to filter and pressurize the system. Biggest difference is that David made his own oil filter adapter and added a remote oil filter. Adding some sort of filter before the electric pump would be a real good idea.

Approximate costs:
22mm-1.5 Sandwich adapter $75 (Note: If your engine uses the FL1A SAE filter you'll need an SAE sandwich adapter)
http://www.roushyatesparts.com/parts-p/can-22-569.htm

Amarine 12V gear transfer pump $80
http://www.amazon.com/Amarine-Made-Scavenge-Impellor-Diesel-Transfer/dp/B00KMI3XPY

Banjo bolt & washers $13 (replaces your oil drain plug)
http://www.a1racing.com/Metric_Banjo_Bolt_14_x_1.50mm.aspx
http://www.a1racing.com/14mm_Banjo_Washers.aspx

3/8" Banjo adapter $7 (to feed electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Banjo...ash=item464462ac8b:g:MFUAAOSw3xJVafaB&vxp=mtr

3/8" One-Way check valve $6 (to prevent engine pressure from running back through electric pump)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-3-8-Al...ash=item1ea1560db2:g:2JsAAOSwpDdVLi17&vxp=mtr

Momentary switch $7 (to run pump prior to starting engine)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-12V-BL...ash=item1c5c6d54af:g:f~4AAOSw1vlUs0ac&vxp=mtr

Other/Miscellaneous: Wire, relay, 3/8" oil rated hose, hose clamps, 1/2" NPT to 3/8" NPT barbed fitting adapter

Thanks koda2000..im definitely going to do some type of prelube system on my 05 st..i still have the same gas when i purchased it 3 months ago..just dont trust it...thanks..i have a 05 sport trac..do i need the sandwich adapter?

 

[koda2000]

Got it...thanks

Thanks koda2000..im definitely going to do some type of prelube system on my 05 st..i still have the same gas when i purchased it 3 months ago..just dont trust it...thanks..i have a 05 sport trac..do i need the sandwich adapter?

You need somewhere to pipe the pressurized oil into the engine. So yes you need the sandwich adapter. It also gives you a convenient place to install a real oil pressure gauge. I would assume you'd need the 22mm metric adapter, but it depends on which oil filter your truck takes. The older SOHC engines could have either the metric or SAE oil filter.

If you want to pre-oil you engine for the time being, so you can feel better about driving it, you can do what I do and crank the engine with the starter motor until the oil gauge pops up. This effectively accomplishes the same thing as the electric pre-oiler. This will usually eleminate the rattle at startup and the high RPM at startup. It takes my truck 8-10 seconds to see oil pressure after sitting overnight. Less cranking time is required if it's just been sitting for a hour or so.

 

[hondaslave1342]

Thanks everyone for all the support..does anyone know of a link for a complete kit that will fit a 4.0. Im web surfed out...i keep pulling up partial kits...

 

[anti eloi]

GlowShift Oil Filter Sandwich Sensor Adapter - 3/4 UNF-16 Thread - GS-AF2 | eBay

This is a better deal for the sandwich adapter. it also has 3 ports for gauges.

 

[2000StreetRod]

I don't understand how the GS-AF2 is useful for a pre-oiler. It looks like all 3 external ports are pressurized ports when the engine is cranking or running. It might be useful for a turbocharger oiler.

 

[anti eloi]

It looks like the same pre-filtration input set up as the Canton 22-569 that only has 1 input. They both need a check valve inline like the canton 24-280. My initial plan is to use that check valve inline with a 1/2 male npt to 1/8 female npt to the sandwich. If anyone has used the recommended Canton 22-569 then they to had to use a check valve or would have had back flow when the engine is running. Maybe I am missing something?