Problems with Door Locks / Ajar

[Tbars4]

...The WD40 removes said gunk...

...I have used this fix on a number of vehicles and it's worked great...My Ranger had a problem that drove me nuts for months....It's been a few years since the WD40 fix and it still working....

...Perhaps you did not have enough gunk removed when you tried the wd40 method...

 

[RickM]

...The WD40 removes said gunk...

...I have used this fix on a number of vehicles and it's worked great...My Ranger had a problem that drove me nuts for months....It's been a few years since the WD40 fix and it still working....

...Perhaps you did not have enough gunk removed when you tried the wd40 method...

When the lock and switch assembly is out in the open it appears that there is little chance of the WD40 making it's way to the switch and past the tightly sealed actuator pin.

As mentioned, I used the WD40 method and it appeared to work for a short time.....or perhaps the switch worked because I repeatedly cycled the switch in an attempt to work the solvent in.

Again this in IMO.

 

[Tbars4]

...I have heard of people having better luck with another penetrating lube like Deep Creep...

 

[alanh5]

Liftgate alarm

Rick, Thanks for your quick reply to my problem. We are going to pull the panel and clean or replace the offending switch. You can't believe what a nuisance this has been.

 

[hiphorn]

Before taking your explorer to a dealership check this first. Get yourself a Haynes manual and follow the directions for removing the drivers side inside door panel(its very easy). Next there is a rubber boot that goes from the drivers side door to the body of the vehicle. This is where all of the wires pass through. Sqeeze both ends of this rubber boot to unseat it and push it through into the drivers side door so that it is out of your way. Look for a black 18 awg wire that is severed(you may need to remove some electrical tape). If you find this wire severed get yourself a 4 inch piece of wire, strip the ends and splice the severed wire with crimp splice. Wrap some electrical tape around your splices and then reassemble the vehicle the same way you took it apart. Its a very easy fix for a very annoying problem. You'd think that Ford would put that extra 2 inches of wire in the door to keep this wire from breaking

before I take my door apart, my door ajar light, and the interior lights, go off after about 2 minutes once i start driving.

does this still sound like a short in the ground wire in the driver's door?
thanks

 

[loves2fish]

Broken Ground Wire is the Problem

before I take my door apart, my door ajar light, and the interior lights, go off after about 2 minutes once i start driving.

does this still sound like a short in the ground wire in the driver's door?
thanks

I have had the same problems with my 2005 Explorer. Door Ajar light always on until reset, Drivers Door Puddle light never on, Dome light that will not go out until I reach 10mph in Forward Gear, Drivers Door Lock will only work when moving, keyless entry would not work to lock doors.

I wish to thank all of you who posted to these problems. Today I looked for the broken black wire for the second time and was not successful until I grabbed the whole harness and noticed that my puddle light finally came on. Then I knew it was the ground wire. It was broken right where the rubber boot is taped to the wiring harness so it would not pull loose and expose itself to me until I removed some tape. It was kind of a bear splicing the wire, I could not get at it until I took off about 3/4 of the factory electrical tape around the harness, then I pulled it back out at the factory splice for the door lock. I spliced in 3" of 18 guage wire and skrink tubed it at both splices.

Thanks Again.... everything now works correctly.

 

[eqppwqqep]

How I fixed my door ajar issues

I let my wife drive it this past Sun and when she came back, the door ajar had reared its head. I had suffered with a door ajar issue fairly infrequently, and always resolved it by shutting each door a second time and that usually fixed it. This time, it wasn't so easy. I read this particular thread and did some testing. Here is my process:

1 - Verify the door ajar light stays on after shutting each door (including lift gate) a second time.

2 - Check the power door locks on the drivers door. Test the power mirrors as well. If they work on the driver door, the driver door is not the issue (more than likely you will stop at this test because the drivers door is the issue).

3 - Run above test on the passenger door. If you can't operate the power lock, the ground is bad.

4 - To repair the ground, open the suspected door. Locate wire boot in hinge.

5 - Squeeze in the door side of the boot (part that goes into door) and lift gently toward front of vehicle. Be gentle or you will loose the ends of your broken ground.

6 - You may have to cut around the boot to get to the wiring, just be careful.

7 - Carefully look at the wiring to find the broken wire. Mine was completely cut in half. Perfectly shiny copper wire was exposed.

8 - Once you find that break, get some spare wire in the 4" long range. Strip the ends of your splice.

9 - It was easier for me to splice by grabbing the broken wire with a pair of needle-nose pliers and stripping the ends of the broken wire that way.

10 - Twist on your splice and tape or shrink tube it.

11 - Replace the boot and push it back into the door.

12 - Start the car and verify your power door locks and mirror work as well as the door ajar light being off.

13 - Go buy gasoline, because a door ajar light won't do squatt to get you home if you run out.

 

[PoorFella]

Thanks for the info. Found the broken wire, but also found a white with looks like green stripe thats looks broken als but so far only found one end. Do you know what this wire is?

I let my wife drive it this past Sun and when she came back, the door ajar had reared its head. I had suffered with a door ajar issue fairly infrequently, and always resolved it by shutting each door a second time and that usually fixed it. This time, it wasn't so easy. I read this particular thread and did some testing. Here is my process:

1 - Verify the door ajar light stays on after shutting each door (including lift gate) a second time.

2 - Check the power door locks on the drivers door. Test the power mirrors as well. If they work on the driver door, the driver door is not the issue (more than likely you will stop at this test because the drivers door is the issue).

3 - Run above test on the passenger door. If you can't operate the power lock, the ground is bad.

4 - To repair the ground, open the suspected door. Locate wire boot in hinge.

5 - Squeeze in the door side of the boot (part that goes into door) and lift gently toward front of vehicle. Be gentle or you will loose the ends of your broken ground.

6 - You may have to cut around the boot to get to the wiring, just be careful.

7 - Carefully look at the wiring to find the broken wire. Mine was completely cut in half. Perfectly shiny copper wire was exposed.

8 - Once you find that break, get some spare wire in the 4" long range. Strip the ends of your splice.

9 - It was easier for me to splice by grabbing the broken wire with a pair of needle-nose pliers and stripping the ends of the broken wire that way.

10 - Twist on your splice and tape or shrink tube it.

11 - Replace the boot and push it back into the door.

12 - Start the car and verify your power door locks and mirror work as well as the door ajar light being off.

13 - Go buy gasoline, because a door ajar light won't do squatt to get you home if you run out.