Pulling SOHC for Timing Chains | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Pulling SOHC for Timing Chains

Ionizer

Member
Joined
September 28, 2016
Messages
31
Reaction score
2
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Ford Explorer XLT
Looking for advice from those of you who have been there and done it. I have a 98 4.0 SOHC with close to 160,000 miles on it. Would like to push it to 300k if possible. She has been driven and maintained well. TSB was addressed in 2001 at 40,000 miles.

After lurking around the site I'm noticing chain rattle from likely loose tensioners. Only rattles on cold start for a few seconds. I can also hear the rattle echo as I'm pulling out of my subdivision when I get between a brick wall.

I'm betting the cassettes are still intact and would like to address this before the issue gets worse. Pricing parts now and will talk to my local independent about the job after deciding how deep I want to dig.

I'm interested in your opinion but my initial thoughts are to replace all parts for front and rear chains. I don't have the post 2002 upgraded parts and I'm sure the rear has not been touched. I found the parts through an out of state ford dealer for $600 where my local stealership wanted $1100 for parts and $3000 for labor.

If I decide to have the engine pulled to replace front and rear chains what other issues should be addressed while the engine is out? I have a rear main seal leak that needs repaired. Would it be wise to drop the oil pan and possibly replace the oil pump?

Here are the parts I'm looking at for $600
4L2Z6M290AA
7U3Z6K254A
7U3Z6A257A
YL2Z9E473AA
1L2Z6L266AA
YL2Z6L266AA
F77Z6584BA
F7TZ9439AA

Am I missing anything there to get front and rear chains done other than the cam positioning tool for another $180?

I'm hoping to get this done for around $2000 or less with parts/labor. If that gets me another 150,000 miles it will be money well spent.

I have already replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat housing, fuel pump, shocks, PCV, Belt / tensioner / pulley.

She looks and runs great. What would you do if she was yours? Thanks for your time.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Have you searched in Rockauto?
 






Drive it till it pops. If your concerned, buy an engine from a wrecker and start building it yourself, its about the only way your going to stay under 2k with decent parts. Then drop it in yourself when it goes.
 






Drive it till it pops. If your concerned, buy an engine from a wrecker and start building it yourself, its about the only way your going to stay under 2k with decent parts. Then drop it in yourself when it goes.
Yes do this, and just take your time if allowed too, and build with quality parts, nothing from China or unheard of company's, or you will have to do it again. Then when the motor has been pulled look at the torque converter, trans filters, valve pack and servo bore on the transmission. I wish I would have done the engine myself because it would have saved me a lot of money.
Loquetus
 






Drive it until it drops, buy a runner from a JY and do the updates inbetween now and popping, that's what I elected to do with my 01.
 






Sounds to me like the Original Poster wants to take care of his problem and his investment rather than "Grenading" his engine and just buying another one...
 






Sounds to me like the Original Poster wants to take care of his problem and his investment rather than "Grenading" his engine and just buying another one...

Yeah, but he also asked what we'd do if we were him, and that's actually what I did, I bought a $300 engine with 102K miles out a running 98, put the updated guides and all that in it, it's sitting waiting on the day my 01 gets far enough to need TLC in that department.
 






I would like to see this engine through to 300k plus. I know it's history, it was my mothers car for first 75k then it was "sold" to me for a $1 after I got out of the Navy and entered college. Hate to buy unknown history.

Thanks to Ford engineers it looks like I'm going to drive till destruction. The death rattle is in the begining stages. My local independent didn't want to tackle the job and 4K through Ford is rediculous when a reman engine can be dropped for less.

I'm not putting another dollar into this X other than fluid changes. I'm just hoping it will run till 200k but if not I got my dollars worth out of it. Just pains me to see such an otherwise exceptional vehical die due to $500 worth of parts. I pride myself in making things last as long as possible. I expect 15-20 years out of my next SUV and I don't think Ford will be on the prospective purchase list.

Thanks for your honest opinion. Wish this was a job I could tackle myself but it's way above my pay grade.
 






Have you considered pre lube, it worked for me, I only had rattle on cold starts. This is now completely eliminated.
If you have timing chain noise at 2000 to 3000 rpm it won't work as plastic part are probably already damaged.
Search 'Pre lube and centrifugal filters' for more information.
 






I read your past post David, Thank you!!! I'll look into this. Even if it only extended engine life by 10,000 miles it would be worth the couple hundred dollar investment of your set up.

I'm looking into a pre oiler sold by Engineprelube.com. $270 Looks like a good product with support to help me through the install process.

I think it will hold failure at bay for a bit. Only have the rattle at the first cold start of the day. Thanks for your input. You gave me hope I may get closer to my goal of 300,000 on this engine.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top