Purchasing all 4 Ball Joints

[Cranmaro99]

Hey all, first post here!

Well after making my LS1 Camaro a weekend warrior and modding it too much, I bought a Daily Driver (A 2001 Limited Explorer 5.0 AWD.)

I've read all the stickies and understand how to replace the balljoints, etc. But both lower balljoints are bad and I might as well replace the stock uppers all the same.

Suspension is where I don't skimp out, and I know you get what you pay for, so which lower and upper ball joints are the way to go? I want professional grade (not service grade parts) that are cold forged balljoints that are also greas-able. I know Moog used to be under this classification but I just read that most of their products are now made in Mexico and hot-forged?

Someone mentioned NAPA balljoints are the good quality ones (Splice???)

Long story short; Which balljoints are the good balljoints to get so I don't have to worry about them for a while?

Thanks!

 

[Lube]

Be glad Moog joints come from Mexico. All the rest come from China. AFAIK, Moog is the best there is.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Be glad Moog joints come from Mexico. All the rest come from China. AFAIK, Moog is the best there is.

Is that so? It's hard to search on this website considering a lot of the information given is from years ago sine these 2nd Gens are getting old. The most recent thread about balljoints said there were plenty more made in USA balljoints that bettered the Moogs.

If you search the part number "5051221" in Rockauto.com's catalog, it's a RAYBESTOS lower balljoint that is cold forged. I'm thinking of going with that for the lowers. But what about the uppers? I hear I have to get the entire UCA's with balljoints for that.

 

[Lube]

Amazing...looks just like the Chinese joints I just bought. I mean right down to the cad plating. Nowhere does it say "Made in USA".

The reason for the whole UCA is that the replacement joints won't fit the factory UCA's. Don't know the story behind that brainstorm.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Amazing...looks just like the Chinese joints I just bought. I mean right down to the cad plating. Nowhere does it say "Made in USA".

The reason for the whole UCA is that the replacement joints won't fit the factory UCA's. Don't know the story behind that brainstorm.

Ok, got it. So you don't like the joints you just got then?

I'm not sure what Moog lower ball joints to get. Looking at rockauto.com, there are two for sale (K8695T) and (K8695T006). Which one do I need if I want to just press these new Moogs in to my current LCAs?

Thank you!

 

[Lube]

The joints I just got are fine - Ebay is your friend. Rebuild the whole front end for about $300, and that includes a new reman rack.
However, I don't plan on taxing things very hard. The only reason I got a 4x4 was I live on a dirt road, at the far end of the county. If it snows a bunch like this last winter, we may not see a grader for 2 - 3 weeks. No off road activity in my future unless it's in my pasture.

 

[Lube]

As to your part numbers...not sure what the difference is. Give them a call.

 

[swshawaii]

.006 is oversized. If it's the first LBJ replacement, use the K8695T, NOT the K8695T006.

http://www.import-car.com/Article/6...ll_joint_removal_and_installation_issues.aspx

 

[Cranmaro99]

The joints I just got are fine - Ebay is your friend. Rebuild the whole front end for about $300, and that includes a new reman rack.
However, I don't plan on taxing things very hard. The only reason I got a 4x4 was I live on a dirt road, at the far end of the county. If it snows a bunch like this last winter, we may not see a grader for 2 - 3 weeks. No off road activity in my future unless it's in my pasture.

I see, thanks. I think I'm just going to go with all 4 balljoints for now, unless the tire-rod ends need work too, then I might as well do those since I'm in there.

.006 is oversized. If it's the first LBJ replacement, use the K8695T, NOT the K8695T006.

http://www.import-car.com/Article/6...ll_joint_removal_and_installation_issues.aspx

Perfect, that explains it all, thanks! Would you still go with these lower balljoints or are there better replacements out there for daily driving?

 

[swshawaii]

+1 on Moog for suspension parts. IIRC my K8695T's were made in the U.S.A.

Under $30 each including shipping from Amazon. Also check their Motorcraft prices.

 

[Cranmaro99]

+1 on Moog for suspension parts. IIRC my K8695T's were made in the U.S.A.

Under $30 each including shipping from Amazon. Also check their Motorcraft prices.

Right on that's what I was going to get. Sounds like a good price to me for the Moogs.

For the upper ball joints I'm going to be getting the entire UCAs with installed balljoints since you can't press out the old ball joints, as we know.

Are the Moog (K8708T) and (K8710T) Upper control arms the ones I should get?

 

[swshawaii]

The K8708T is correct for your drivers side, and the only one available from Moog.
You have the option of using either the two piece K8710T or K80068 one piece UCA.
I would be inclined to use the updated K80068 since it includes control arm bushings.
Avoid over greasing, you will be good to go for a long time. Use these excellent links.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453

 

[Cranmaro99]

The K8708T is correct for your drivers side, and the only one available from Moog.
You have the option of using either the two piece K8710T or K80068 one piece UCA.
I would be inclined to use the updated K80068 since it includes control arm bushings.
Avoid over greasing, you will be good to go for a long time. Use these excellent links.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188225
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194453

Ok thanks so much. I didnt notice that the 8710 didn't come with bushings for some reason. I thought the passenger side had to be a 2 piece design for a reason? Maybe it was alignment reasons. Either way this answer might be in the links you gave me that I am about to read. The updated one with bushings (80068) is twice as much as the other one almost, so I'd hope it's worth it.

 

[swshawaii]

Didn't realize the price difference. Check your passenger side UCA bushings.
If OK, use the two piece. Would be a direct replacement with the caster adjustment.
Also read a tip to freeze the LBJ's overnight, before pressing them in. Good Luck.

 

[Hartman]

Just bought service grade Raybestos ball joints. They are made in the US. Ironically the Raybestos tie rods were made in Taiwan.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Didn't realize the price difference. Check your passenger side UCA bushings.
If OK, use the two piece. Would be a direct replacement with the caster adjustment.
Also read a tip to freeze the LBJ's overnight, before pressing them in. Good Luck.

1) Yeah I would like to keep the 2 piece design for alignment's sake. If the bushings look shot on the passenger upper control arm, can I just get the 2 piece design and then order UCA bushings and install them in the OEM passenger UCA? Or can you not install bushings on the oem UCA?

2) Really? What does freezing do? I'll try it out.

Thanks again, man, you're helping out a lot.

 

[swshawaii]

No problem bro, this site has saved me big $$$.

If you buy bushings separately, they would need to be pressed in the UCA.
Freezing shrinks the ball joint, supposedly making them easier to press in. (Never tried)

Go to the Moog "Problem Solver" site, some good reading. Another FYI below.

www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

 

[Cranmaro99]

No problem bro, this site has saved me big $$$.

If you buy bushings separately, they would need to be pressed in the UCA.
Freezing shrinks the ball joint, supposedly making them easier to press in. (Never tried)

Go to the Moog "Problem Solver" site, some good reading. Another FYI below.

www.moogproblemsolver.com/_pdf_en2/DYK10_106_En.pdf

Awesome man I appreciate the help. I only want to get the passenger side upper bushings for the UCAs because the drivers side is getting an entire new UCA with new bushings. I just don't want anything bad to happen with one used bushing on one side and a stiffer fresh one of the other, but I assume I'm being overly-cautous. I'll look at the bushing tomorrow and see if it's looking good or not. I'm assuming it's easy to tell?

 

[swshawaii]

IIRC, lifting the tire off the ground by the lower control arm "unloads" the UCA.
I'm sure if you shake them you will see any wear or play in the bushings or BJ.
I was checking my upper ball joints using this method and found one control
arm/camber bolt nut slightly loose, causing a major clunk over small bumps.
Got lucky, my ball joints and UCA bushings were OK. Will check back manana. GL

 

[Cranmaro99]

IIRC, lifting the tire off the ground by the lower control arm "unloads" the UCA.
I'm sure if you shake them you will see any wear or play in the bushings or BJ.
I was checking my upper ball joints using this method and found one control
arm/camber bolt nut slightly loose, causing a major clunk over small bumps.
Got lucky, my ball joints and UCA bushings were OK. Will check back manana. GL

Thanks homie! Appreciate it. I'll keep this updated.