RA bushings

[SuperKirby]

Probably going to have to change these before the end of the summer. Looking at the how to sticky, it looks tedious but not overly difficult. If it's something I don't want to do again soon, would I be better off to go with Moog thermoplastic or the Energy polyurethane bushings? I thought in general poly was better, but also thought Moog was usually real good, I just don't see a poly option from them.

 

[natenkiki2004]

I've got this project in the back of my mind and have the Energy Suspension ones eyeballed. Reason is, I try to shy away from big-corporation stuff. Moog was bought out by Federal-Mogul and many people say they're not as good as they were. They probably are still fine but I don't like giving money to big monopoly-style corporations. I also don't like companies that change hands frequently, I have more trust in a company that holds it's own and doesn't get bought out or go bankrupt. Federal buys these companies up and they just don't seem like they produce quality stuff. Sometimes all that's available is a FelPro oil pan gasket or Sealed Power rocker arm but I do try to avoid it.


From Federal-Mogul's website:
Federal-Mogul aftermarket products are sold under a variety of power brands, including, but not limited to, AE® engine products, ANCO® wipers, Champion® spark plugs and wipers, Fel-Pro® gaskets, Ferodo® brake pads, Glyco® bearings, Goetze® piston rings, Moog® chassis products, National® Wheel End Components, Nüral® pistons, Payen® gaskets, Sealed Power® engine products and Wagner® lighting and brake products.


Anyway, rant over... Go with the Energy Suspension. I think any bushing will have a hard time sitting that close to the catalytic converter so make sure you pound the rivets out rather than pulling the axle forward enough to get the bushings out. This way, you can replace them again down the road.

 

[Chrome_Rush]

I used the blue moogs, very happy with them as for the install, it wasn't the easiest job, I also did the ball joints at the same time so I had the spindles off of it making it easier.

 

[FR-425]

Had a off road shop air-hammer the rivets off and install the bushings in 30 minutes.

Cost $75. No brainer at that price.

 

[SuperKirby]

Thanks guys. I was leaning towards the Energy suspension, just wanted to make sure they weren't terrible. Definitely going to get the rivets out. Not sure if I want to invest in an air hammer or spend some time with a dremel and file, then pound. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. Either way, should be easy enough.

 

[vq5speed]

I put the red Energy bushings in like 18 years ago. They dried up and cracked replaced them couple months ago with Moogs. Even with bolts its still a pain to do

 

[Number4]

I just used a grinder to cut/grind down the rivit head to pop out the bolts. Not hard at all. Just don't cut into the frame.

Moog is a mixed line product. So you either get quality or 'value,' you just don't know. Their name is hyped up like Fram and even Timkin now a days. Timkin only makes some 10% of their bearings and only the roller bearings.

Yet people see these names and think high quality.

The other part of this, the consumers want ever cheaper prices. So quality gets sacrificed every where. And when parts stores start to compete, you end up with nothing but junk available.

NAPA's premium chassis line used to be just that, premium. Their value line was equivalent to Moog.
But recently, Fed Mog bought Affinia's (NAPA's) chassis line. We'll see what happens. It either becomes Moog quality, or Fed Mog figured it was easier to buy a premium line than make one.

 

[vq5speed]

Its true seen where sellers advertise Moog but show something else. The ones I got Moog #K80007

 

[Maniak]

Its true seen where sellers advertise Moog but show something else. The ones I got Moog #K80007

When I still ran Radius Arm bushings I also only ever ran the Moog Problem solver k80007(http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K80007-Radius-Arm-Bushing/dp/B000C57YQG) bushings and never had an issue with them.

~Mark