Radio Display is Out!!!!! Will A Dorman 586-001 aftermarket power supply board work. | Page 5 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Radio Display is Out!!!!! Will A Dorman 586-001 aftermarket power supply board work.

I know an almost retired man who has sparingly come back for repairing electronics parts for the Mark VII's, including the CD changer. He is very good at that kind of component, but he just turned back up this past Winter. I'm waiting for him to catch up to see about two message centers for me, and an overhead compass. The radio repair places should be able to handle all of that kind of stuff, but they prefer to deal with a limited group of devices, with set prices for high profit. This man I know of was in the $100 range for a few items like a radio, EATC, and the message center. That's not cheap, but he did it all, those and a few other items for those old Lincolns. If he does come back for a while, I'll mention him here when I make contact again.
 



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Very old story. About 20 years ago these boards started failing because of two leaded power resistors (if memory serves, 1/2W) which were heating the little PCB so much that solder was melting and SMT components were falling off. Some electrolytic capacitors might have been damaged from the heat as well. Pioneer came up with an "upgraded" design, which simply lifted those two resistors about 1/4" off the board. I installed one of those and it's been working fine to this day. Alas, over the years the built-in CD drive became iffy, and the console-mounted 6-disk changer is now a dead weight. Thought of replacing the thing with something befitting the 21st century, but since the EX mostly serves as a short-range garden supplies hauler these days, it's not essential. Moreover, on the slim hope that one day my grandchildren will make a fortune selling this Limited - equipped with every possible option that money could buy in 1998 as a collector's item, everything inside should be kept original, shouldn't it?
I see. Looking at cbranning2012's pic from page 1 of this topic, looks like a pair of 2W, 2.2ohm resistors, then Dorman modified the design to use 3W instead of 2W for those two and a 3rd resistor near it which may be a different ohm value.

That alone would be very easy to repair, but the question of whether other parts are falling off is a concern especially if they are lost so they can't be identified.

The first thing to do would be pull the board and examine it, whether all parts are there. Replacement resistors are about $1-2+ S/H at a supply house like digikey, then mount them a bit further off the PCB, using the highest wattage that fits on the measured, hole spacing on the PCB. A few possiblities are below.


To keep them more stable mounted higher off the PCB for less heat conduction, it might help to add a ceramic spacer to each resistor leg, something like the following, or just flood the area with thermally conductive epoxy when the repair is complete but this latter option would make subsequent repairs more difficult, and yet, would probably prevent the resistors from ever needing replaced again.

Edit: oops, that particular spacer is out of stock but they have others of similar enough, suitable dimensions.

Capacitors, if needed it should be pretty easy to find some of similar enough size, 105C temp rated and low ESR on digikey.

I'd just do the repair like this if mine ever fails, I have no issues using the radio for FM then I have a lighter outlet powered digital player/FM-transmitter to play files off an internal mSD card or over bluetooth from a phone.
 






That's excellent, you know electronics well and could identify the components on the display board, and work through a repair and improvement. I have a spare Mach radio boxed up someplace, and a Dorman part too. I wish I could put my hands on them quickly once a source to repair it is available.
 






I love digikey
Bought lots of parts from them
 






I'm just going to add this. I had the same issue years ago in my 98 and after living with it for a while, it was such a common issue that there was a guy online that you sent the power board to and he did the fix. I did that. then several years later I had an issue with the volume control knob going bad. The 6 disc was shot and the internal disk player also was getting iffy.

And while I loved the features of the MACH system, and it was lightyears ahead when it first came out, it was just time to install a new radio.

It is really nice to have Bluetooth and apple carplay now in the XLT and I got a model with a backup camera as well. There are a few places on line like Crutchfield that will sell you the stereo, the mounting hardware and a wiring harness (plus a cheap back up camera if you go that route). One thing that I ran into was that the original antenna lead was not long enough to reach the new stereo's plug that was on the opposite side on my stereo. I was in a rush so I ended up having to buy locally and i ended up with like a 5' extension when I only needed about a foot.

Good luck
 






I love digikey
Bought lots of parts from them

Same experience here w/ Digikey

As a plus they also ship small orders via USPS First Class (at a reasonable rate) so that the shipping doesn't wind up more than the value of the part you ordered.
 






Same experience here w/ Digikey

As a plus they also ship small orders via USPS First Class (at a reasonable rate) so that the shipping doesn't wind up more than the value of the part you ordered.
I ordered 20 12 v dc to DC converters from them with some other stuff
Then the FBI called me
No joke
Now I order smaller packages
 






I ordered 20 12 v dc to DC converters from them with some other stuff
Then the FBI called me
No joke
Now I order smaller packages

What is so special about that device, what is it for? I'd make a bad criminal.
 






What is so special about that device, what is it for? I'd make a bad criminal.
I don't know what makes it special
Just a converter 0-12v in regulated to 0-6v @20amps
I used to make vapes when it was a thing sold a bunch online
 






Okay, no big fun there. I haven't seen any big vaping smoke screens coming from cars in a long time. Maybe that fad has died off, that's good.
 






I ordered 20 12 v dc to DC converters from them with some other stuff
Then the FBI called me
No joke
Now I order smaller packages
12V to what? All automotive electronics that I've seen works on 12V DC.
By the way, the control signal which that ancient Mach radio sends to turn on the subwoofer amplifier is 5V and so wimpy that it can't even drive a relay coil. When the original sub died and I replaced the amplifier, had to rig a little conversion circuit to get a 12V signal.
 






12V to what? All automotive electronics that I've seen works on 12V DC.
By the way, the control signal which that ancient Mach radio sends to turn on the subwoofer amplifier is 5V and so wimpy that it can't even drive a relay coil. When the original sub died and I replaced the amplifier, had to rig a little, single transistor conversion circuit.
Tons of relay coils can be triggered by 5v and extremely low wattage.
 






12V to what? All automotive electronics that I've seen works on 12V DC.
By the way, the control signal which that ancient Mach radio sends to turn on the subwoofer amplifier is 5V and so wimpy that it can't even drive a relay coil. When the original sub died and I replaced the amplifier, had to rig a little conversion circuit to get a 12V signal.

FYI, my ancient Mach radio has five RCA pre-outs on the backside of it, to feed real amplifiers as I feel like it. I had a man repair mine who used one for a living in his studio, he thought he could find the low level signal inside the deck, and run them to RCA outputs. That's why I'm sticking with my old radio, it looks good and has excellent signal quality. My Nakamichi amps have no distortion, unlike the crap amps people buy today.
 






FYI, my ancient Mach radio has five RCA pre-outs on the backside of it, to feed real amplifiers as I feel like it. I had a man repair mine who used one for a living in his studio, he thought he could find the low level signal inside the deck, and run them to RCA outputs. That's why I'm sticking with my old radio, it looks good and has excellent signal quality. My Nakamichi amps have no distortion, unlike the crap amps people buy today.
Plenty of quality amps still available, you just won’t find them on Amazon for $100. I think the weak link would still be the Ford deck. I’d bet that a middle of the road head until and a quality class A amp would outperform the factory signals.
 






I still own the same old PA200 amp I got in 1982 for my first car, and it was plenty loud and clear for me then, with a cheap $35 cassette deck and a $50 pair of 5 1/4" door speakers. Those were .005% THD back then, the more powerful amps were .003%, while today's stuff they make you think .5% distortion is good. I never got into the high end components, no doubt there still are really good amps today, but at what price? I saw the popular things 10+ years ago, and decided to buy a few of those old PA### amps. I ended up with the 2x75w PA300, and a couple of the 4x35w models(PA350 I think it was), and one mono amp, all were in the $100-$150 range. That will make more loud than I need, but won't have any distortion at whatever I set it to. Typical stock decks you can hear it going bad at 3/4 volume, only low level signals(RCA) are worth considering for a nice stereo.
 






.I just replaced my factory radio
I used factory speakers
This thing sounds great to for a standard replacement
https://www.amazon.com/UNITOPSCI-Car-Multimedia-Player-Receiver,Rear/dp/B07LGTCLKY
I did not use the camera or remotes

20210714_121138.jpg
 






I still own the same old PA200 amp I got in 1982 for my first car, and it was plenty loud and clear for me then, with a cheap $35 cassette deck and a $50 pair of 5 1/4" door speakers. Those were .005% THD back then, the more powerful amps were .003%, while today's stuff they make you think .5% distortion is good. I never got into the high end components, no doubt there still are really good amps today, but at what price? I saw the popular things 10+ years ago, and decided to buy a few of those old PA### amps. I ended up with the 2x75w PA300, and a couple of the 4x35w models(PA350 I think it was), and one mono amp, all were in the $100-$150 range. That will make more loud than I need, but won't have any distortion at whatever I set it to. Typical stock decks you can hear it going bad at 3/4 volume, only low level signals(RCA) are worth considering for a nice stereo.
.5% is good for a class D, which I’m sure is what you’re seeing. I’m sure adjusted for inflation those Nakamichi were probably more new than something comparable now. Typically in a automotive environment your biggest issue is the car itself. Getting .005% THD out of the actually speakers would take some VERY spendy cabling.
 






Tons of relay coils can be triggered by 5v and extremely low wattage.
Don't remember the exact current demand of the few little relays that I had on hand - probably about 20-30mA. And that was way too much for that wimpy signal out of the MACH radio. You can possibly find some that work on 10mA or less (is 50mW extremely low?), but a 5 cent transistor and a couple passive components solved the problem for me. Don't know why that MACH radio put out 5V when just about any amplifier needs nominal 12 to trigger - perhaps things were different 25 years ago.
Incidentally, as far as I can tell, Ford got that amplifier from Jaguar, which they owned at the time. Must have been a marvel of British engineering from the 1970s or early 1980s: all through-hole components. Judging by the temperature reached by that beautiful heavy aluminum box, it dissipated way more power than it delivered to the speaker; must have been class AB or something like that. Ford powered it with 20-gauge wires, so it was probably rated no more than 50W, but struggled to deliver 25 with reasonable distortion. The death of the speaker was my excuse to trash it too. My hearing is not great, so now I am content with a mediocre class D.
 






Don't remember the exact current demand of the few little relays that I had on hand - probably about 20-30mA. And that was way too much for that wimpy signal out of the MACH radio. You can possibly find some that work on 10mA or less (is 50mW extremely low?), but a 5 cent transistor and a couple passive components solved the problem for me. Don't know why that MACH radio put out 5V when just about any amplifier needs nominal 12 to trigger - perhaps things were different 25 years ago.
Incidentally, as far as I can tell, Ford got that amplifier from Jaguar, which they owned at the time. Must have been a marvel of British engineering from the 1970s or early 1980s: all through-hole components. Judging by the temperature reached by that beautiful heavy aluminum box, it dissipated way more power than it delivered to the speaker; must have been class AB or something like that. Ford powered it with 20-gauge wires, so it was probably rated no more than 50W, but struggled to deliver 25 with reasonable distortion. The death of the speaker was my excuse to trash it too. My hearing is not great, so now I am content with a mediocre class D.
Factory stuff is always subpar. They used a 5v signal because that’s what they could use with their off the shelf stuff. No reason for them to make something a standard amplifier would use.

I think it’s atypical in vehicles of this generation to get upgraded amplifiers without getting a better head unit.

On today’s cars it doesn’t make sense to replace most head units, since everything is getting integrated into them.
 



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.5% is good for a class D, which I’m sure is what you’re seeing. I’m sure adjusted for inflation those Nakamichi were probably more new than something comparable now. Typically in a automotive environment your biggest issue is the car itself. Getting .005% THD out of the actually speakers would take some VERY spendy cabling.
And to be honest, as these cars got older, so did we. I know that after working 37 years in Navy enginerooms and then Power plants, that my hearing isn't what it used to be. So I doubt that I could tell the difference anymore. Plus if you are driving with the windows down and the sunroof open, then all you really need is something louder than the wind noise.
 






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