Found on another site last year--will see if I can find the photos of it & post back
The board you want is located under the top cover, along the left side (as you are looking at the front of the unit). It is about an inch wide and as long as the unit is deep. You'll see a shiny metal RF shield (cover) over most of it and the cover has an opening on the top. If you look down at the left front cover of the board (next to the edge of the unit), you'll see a small metal tab that is bent at a 45 deg. angle over the board. This is a hold-down. Bend the tab straight over the little slot in the board. Next, look down in the hole on top of the RF Shield and you'll see another hold-down. Do the same with that one. Last, look at the rear left corner of the unit and you'll see a big heat sink. Look for a copper tab coming up over the top of the case from the back of the board. It is attached to the heat sink with a phillips head screw. Remove the screw. You should now be able to gently lift the small PC board and shield out of the unit. Be carefull with the small blue cable that's plugged into the front edge of the board. You can carefully lift the small white connector out of the socket and now the board is completely free in your hands.
The RF shield is what alot of the folks say they've found to have broken solder joints (as did I), but that is NOT the problem. The problem is the failed solder joints on the small components mounted on the bottom of the board. The crack in the solder is so small you can only see it by looking though a magnifying glass and then it's still hard to see. Take my word for it, they're cracked. Just get some cleaner (alchohol and a toothbrush works great) and scrub the old flux & junk off the components and board first. Then just go around and CAREFULLY resolder as many of them as you can get to. DON"T try to do the IC chip with all the legs on it though, you'll likely mess that up!
If you want to get fancy, you can heat the legs on the large blue resistors that are on top of the board and lift them up away from the board and re-solder. This will help prevent heat transfer to the board. You'll probably find cracked solder joints on the RF shield, so go ahead and resolder those as well.
If you're not real good with a soldering iron, you need to look for info on the web and practice, practice, practice before you try it on the radio! Use a 33 Watt iron or less (33 is good, it has enough capacity to heat quickly, yet won't burn boards too easily).
Once you're done, clean it off once more, plug in the blue cable, place the board back inside, bend the tabs, replace the heat sink screw, cover back on, radio back in and you are looking at your display again!!! WOO-HOO
Good Luck!
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