Radius arm bushings... WHAT A PAIN!

[MustangShane]

I just got in from replacing both radius arm bushings and what a pain. I read up on replacing them in my manual and it all sounds so simple. Remove spring, detatch sway bar, unbolt radius arm nut and it all just slides right out with nooooo problem. BULL
First you remove the spring, detatch sway bar, unbolt radius arm nut and dont you know it they have perssure to the outside of the hole so they will only move out so far. So I tried wiggling it up and down to work it out and nuthin!! I used a pry bar to try to force it out and they dont give you a good pry point. ARRGGHHH this sucks!! I ended up using my come-along to pull the pass. side forward and some how I pried out the drivers side. Then I used the come-along attached to the opposite side of the truck to pull the arms inboard so they would slide back into place. Lets just say I was VERY relieved to be done. After it was all said and done I'm very happy I did this. I'm sure others probably have stories similar to mine.

 

[Joey P]

RA bushings are WAY harder to change that way! Most people here grind the rivets off of the RA brackets(where the bushings actually go into.), and remove the bracket all together. Then you just replace the rivets with some grade 8 bolts. WAY easier IMO.

 

[MustangShane]

Now I didn't understand that piece would come off that way. I thought both side were attached to each other and it would be more work than it was worth to remove that assy.. But after what I went through it would have been easier. Thanks I'll do that next time.

 

[Opera House]

I avoided all that work and just slit the wheel side of the bushing and slipped it over the RA. It worked for me at less than an hour a side and still good 70K later. Got better things to do than grind rivets.

 

[DeRocha]

Replacing the RA bushings are definitely a PITA no matter which method you use. I used both and found each has their pros & cons. I did notice when using the spring removal method that you need to remove the axle pivot bolt and not just loosen it. This will allow you to move the Tracktion beam forward with much less effort and not require a hand winch.

I would NOT recommend cutting any bushing.

 

[AspenX]

I dont recomend this really, but I blocked the front tire so it couldnt move. Put a jackstand as far back under the RA as it would go, took the big nut off and backed the truck a few inches. Took off the old bushing and put on a new one. Pulled forward put nut back on, I was finished in 12 minutes. I'm sure I could have messed up a brake line or something but I didnt.

 

[MyExpWork]

I dont recomend this really, but I blocked the front tire so it couldnt move. Put a jackstand as far back under the RA as it would go, took the big nut off and backed the truck a few inches. Took off the old bushing and put on a new one. Pulled forward put nut back on, I was finished in 12 minutes. I'm sure I could have messed up a brake line or something but I didnt.

Very ingenious. (SP) LOL.

I could move both axles forward and backward by hand when I replaced my radius arm bushings two weeks ago. Does this mean I need to replace the axle pivot bushings too? The bushing are very noisy when going over speed bumps and stuff.

Brian

 

[Rhett]

If you think the radius arm bushings are a pain, try the axle pivot bushing...

 

[410Fortune]

Rhett, if the beam is out of the truck a air chissel makes short work of them.....

if they are in the truck = plan on all weekend

Radius arm bushings are only a PITA if you do it that way or dont have the right tools. With a 4" grinder each rivet takes about 4-5 minutes. 4 rivets later the bushings are replaced. Takes a total of 1-2 hours working slow to do it by yourself this method, cost about $20 for bushings and grade 8/10 hardware
No need to mess with the beams......

 

[TheRookie]

I am with the grinding idea on this one. DId one the other day that way

 

[Rhett]

I ground off the rivets on my truck right after I bought it back in 2000. Now, with a little PB Blaster, I can change the RAB's in about 20 minutes.

 

[TheRookie]

Ahh yes. PB is the stuff. I have 3 cases of it at work. wd40 only wishes it was that good

 

[410Fortune]

Yes but WD-40 was never meant to be a rust penatrent, it s a wire drier.............it also works well as a penetrant, just an added bonus.

Now dont use it to lube hinges however, my father brought me up thinking WD-40 was the end all be all household oil, boy was he wrong!!! it does more damage then good on most hinges.....

 

[TheRookie]

i use spray on white lithium on hinges. hmm, didnt know that wd40 wasnt made to be a penetrant. you learn something new every day

 

[Maniak]

FYI: WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant (sp) - 40 formula...

~Mark

 

[MustangShane]

Well guys thanks for all the input. I rechecked the mounts and it seems that this has been done before. Someone else ground off the rivets and there are bolts in its place. MAN that would have been so much easier. Although it took me about six hours to do it the "hard" way. I like the inventiveness Myexpwork. Pretty funny.

 

[410Fortune]

Most dealerships and almost all repair manuals would do the bushings by dropping the front beams.

 

[Curt]

RAB's

Anybody interested in coming to my house in West Seattle and doing my RAB's? I'll by beer!

I am in the process of doing my bushings now. Is it possible to just remove one side? The passenger side with the worthless heat shield is the one I want to do now but I am not sure if just doing one is a good idea. I am trying to make less work for myself obviously. I need to replace the passenger side bracket because the hole the RA goes through is ovaled from neglect. I have grounded down the rivet heads but have yet to get them out completely. My main question is will one side of the bracket come off if the other is connected? I guess it would take a little prying, but should come out.

Great Site! Lots of good info.

Curt

 

[410Fortune]

careful! RABS is typically the Rear Antilock Brakes hahaha

Use urethane bushings if you want an impoved ride on the street, and yes the brand does matter according to popular opinion. I use Energy brand bushings.

Once you get the rivets down flush you can use a hammer and punch with some liguid wrench, and as long as the weight of the truck is not ONE THE RADIUS ARMS (jackstands) then the riet will pop right out.
I like to enlarge the holes slightly to fit 1/2" hardware to ensure a tight fit when you put the bracket back on.
ON the drivers side the fuel filter or on some trucks fuel pump will have to be moved....
Also replace the nyon dohnut thats on both sides, from Ford they are cheap....some kits come with them as well.

 

[TheRookie]

fly me out there and I will do them for beer