Radius arm bushings.... | Ford Explorer Forums

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Radius arm bushings....

Blrob

Active Member
Joined
October 12, 2005
Messages
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City, State
Buffalo, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
'03 XLT
How can you tell when they have been replaced? I see 2 nuts at the end of the arms going thru the crossmemeber towards the back of the truck. Is this an indication that they have been replaced or is this the original factory setup? I want to do this myself if they have already been replaced. If not, I'll let someone do it for about 125.00, including the kit. Thanks for any input.
 



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i have changed stock ones and non stock ones, its the same.......

save yourself the $, honestly, i can do both sides in under an hour
 






I agree with you about saving the money, but I don't have the tools to do it if it's still the factory setup. I want to know how to tell if they have been changed already. Were the bolts and nuts at the end of the arms from the factory, or would I see rivets where these bolts are?
 












the easiest way to replace the radius arm bushing is to remove the cross memeber that is riveted in. if you see bolts and nuts holding the cross member to the frame theyve likely been replaced.
 






If you see bolts and no rivets you are IN LUCK. That makes it an EASY JOB... someone else did the heavy lifting for you.
 






Thanks glacier 91, that's what I needed to know.
 






mine was still riveted, i removed the lower shock mount, upper spring retainer, and sway bar endlink, and just pulled the things through. still had rivets.....
 






Radius Arm Bushings

I've DOne This On Both My Trucks, A 91' XLT and A 93' XLT.
Depending On The Condition Of Your Suspension (rusty bolts...etc), You Might Wanna Take It To a Mechanic. It's Only Like 100.00 For Them To Do It And Saves The Hassle And Headache. Alot Of The Nuts Are Hard As Hell To Get Off On The Axle Side. Which Is The Recommended Way To Do It By Ford.
WAY ONE
You Need To Disconnect The Springs And Stud Bolts From The Axle On A 4WD. Remove The Control Arm From The Axle. Remove The Shock, Which Is All A PITA. Then Remove The Two Large Nuts On The End And Pull It Through.
WAY TWO
If You Go For The Removal Of The Crossmember, There Should Be Two Rivets On Either Side Of The Crossmember, If You See Them, It's Never Been Removed. If There Are 4-5 Bolts With Nuts On Either Side, It's Been Changed. You Can Drill The Out Or Sawzall Them, But Mark The crossmember Placement Before You Start. Just Replace The Rivets With Strong Bolts Of M10 Or Higher To Be Safe.

The Two Big Bolts, At The End Or The Arms, Which Are Normally 1 1/8 socket Size, Need To Be Removed No Matter What. And There Is A Heat Cover Over The Passenger Side's Bushings Due To Heat From The Cat. Make Sure That Shield Goes Back On. In My Experience The Axle Studs And Spring Bracket Nut Are Same Size. You Can Get The Bushing Sets For Around 10.00 a piece At Most Autoparts Stores. If You Remove The Crossmember, It's Easiest.
 












normal threads? for the 1 1/8 bolts?

91n93explorer,

are the "The Two Big Bolts, At The End Or The Arms, Which Are Normally 1 1/8 socket Size, Need To Be Removed No Matter What." normal threads? as in turn left to loosen?

I'm to that point and can't get these off!

thanks
 






gesh - 3ft 1" pipe on the end of a long 1/2 ratchet

gesh - 3ft 1" pipe on the end of a long 1/2 ratchet is what it took to get the top/bottom bolts off of the radius arm.
 






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