Radius Bushings

[Eraser]

today i feel like i was hit by a car, very sore!

the ride is much improved, and i am very much impressed with the results. no more clunk! also, seemed like there was less body roll in a couple turns i took (probably due to the new shocks though). I went with pro comp es 9000's, because they were only like 35 bucks each and i got that deal where you buy 3 and get 1 free. they are stiff though, and stiff = awesome.

 

[tac]

i finished mine today. the job takes a long time no matter what way you do it. i chose to grind and air chisel the rivets. turns out the rivets are the easiest part. i used somebody's idea of the canned air*upside down) to freeze the rivets prior to punching them out., but i took it a step further with great success. i torched the area around the rivet then hit the rivet with canned air to freeze the ****. it popped out easily with the air punch. great idea thank you! also i recommend buying air tools if you can. you will always need them. they help a lot. i got a decent set from Lowe's for 100 bucks. the bolts that hold the ra frame are a ***** to get to. i used a box end wrench with a cheater bar. i would get 1 1/2 inch bolts for the whole job. removing the brake cable is easier if you adjust it slack. by far lining up the bracket holes is the most time consuming part of the job. i used a come along to pull the twin beams forward to get the pressure off of the bracket. it makes lining up the holes easier. my one side had egged out the bracket hole a small amount. i used my mig to weld a puddle in the low spot then filed it smooth. i did not want to go looking for a new bracket. the ra arm was worn a small amount also, but screw it .... i left some extra metal in the bracket to make up for it. i used moog bushings. they seem real nice. they did have the adjustable moog bushings at the parts counter, but i passed on them because i hoped they would be necessary. after all this work i hope so. the truck seems to drive great and tight. no more wandering or road slap. hopefully no more cupped tires. no more pull to the right. best of all is the satisfaction of keeping the 600.00+ bucks Firestone wanted to do the job. i wish i had done the job a few years ago.

 

[cws4c]

Bolts to replace rivets and gas filter and catalytic converter in the way

The bolts to replace the rivets are grade 8, 1" bolts. Are they 3/8 x 1" or 1/2 x 1"?

Also, I read that the fuel filter and parking brake block the driver side RA bracket rivets and that the catalytic converter blocks the passenger side RA bracket rivets. Do I need to remove any of these parts to access the rivets.

Do I remove the rivets and RA crossmember, then remove the RA bushing bolts next or the reverse order. On the passenger side, I don't have enough room to get a 1 1/8" socket on the RA bushing nut. I may be able to get a wrench in there, but then I won't have much room for a cheater bar. Any suggestions?

 

[Tony H]

Grade 5, grade 8 will be fine. I beleive I used 3/8ths.

I did not remove the gas filter but I unhooked the bracket to move it awayfrom the framerail.

You can let the front end hang with the Jackstands under the frame, take the RA Nuts off (or loosen) then fight with the rivets. This way the crossmember is not floating around while you get a big-ass box wrench and hump on those RA nuts. I don't remember the torque spec for those Nuts, it wasn't very very tight but they are tough to remove.

 

[DeRocha]

The bolts to replace the rivets are grade 8, 1" bolts. Are they 3/8 x 1" or 1/2 x 1"?

Also, I read that the fuel filter and parking brake block the driver side RA bracket rivets and that the catalytic converter blocks the passenger side RA bracket rivets. Do I need to remove any of these parts to access the rivets.

Do I remove the rivets and RA crossmember, then remove the RA bushing bolts next or the reverse order. On the passenger side, I don't have enough room to get a 1 1/8" socket on the RA bushing nut. I may be able to get a wrench in there, but then I won't have much room for a cheater bar. Any suggestions?

7/16" check out Radius arm bushing replacement for more info.

You don't need to disconnect any fuel filter lines, but you will need to remove it from its mounting bracket so you can reach the frame behind it. The CAT doesn't need to be removed to reach any bolts or rivets.

Again see the above link for a procedure guide to removing the components. If you cannot slip a socket over the Radius Arm Nut then try jacking up the front TTB.. As you lift the TTB the RA nut will orient itself into a more parallel position so you can fit the socket on. If the RA nut has never been removed you will need to heat it up with a torch (propane, map etc) for a few minutes to burn off any red loctite used during installation.. Red loctite is a permanent bond and will make wrenching very difficult unless you heat it to 500f to remove it. My 1000 ft/lb impact gun couldn't remove my RA nuts without heating them up 1st.