RE SuperFlex assembly

[IZwack]

Got my RE SuperFlex's in the mail recently and, well I have no idea how to assemble them.

So if anyone has assembled these things, please help help!. I make an assumption as to how it's put together but I want to make sure since these are somewhat a critical component of the suspension. For example, I don't know how to drive in the plastic liner things go into the housing - do you just hammer them in? I've searched online and couldnt find any instructions

 

[Rick]

I think I've read that you need a press to assemble them.

 

[IZwack]

I think I've read that you need a press to assemble them.

Yeah thanks - I just called RubiconExpress and thats what they said. As for the pre-load, they said they just get it as tight as they can - to a point where a screwdriver is required in order to rotate the ball (shouldn't be able to rotate it with your bare hands).

 

[Burns]

Could you explain the process of putting these together. Im going to add heims or these to my front set up.

Also what did you pay for them. Found them for 48 bucks for one

 

[dkchrist]

Those are nice joints installed a superflex kit on a jeep this summer and they work great, they're very quiet, and greaseable.

 

[IZwack]

Sorry for the late response Burns -- I saw you're reply this morning but never got around to replying before I left for work.

Assembling them or rebuilding them is cake. For assembly, all you have to do is use the pronged tool to start the threaded end-plug -- just turn it enough so that it has a few threads gripping the outer shell. Then you use the included washer with a large socket to initially drive in the first UHMW plastic bushing (from the other side) all the way agains the plug you just threaded. Then place the central body sphere thingy and then drive in the next bushing. Then, with the large washer still in place, install the snap ring. Then you set the pre-load by tightening down the threaded end plug.

The pronged-tool requires a 1/2" socket driver so I just typically use a medium sized 1/2" wrench or a medium breaker bar to set the pre-load -- just tighten it as much as you can w/o having an aneurysm

Even though the plastic bushing material is supposed to be self-lubricating (either UHMW polyethylene, Delrin/Acetal, or HDPE), I still try my best to put some dry lubricant during rebuilds. These dry lurbricants perform better in off-road situations even when compared to synthetic grease (the type you can find from most auto stores) because they dont attract dirt. Such lubricants are available at most bike shops, just as them for some "dry chain lube"

Dont forget that there are (or at least there were a year ago) two sizes of RE SuperFlex joints - small and large. There is also the "Builder's ball" which is even larger than the large SuperFlex. But yeah that price is about how much I paid for mine. I may have paid a few dollars cheaper but that was a year ago.

EDIT -- here I found it for $43 with free shipping: http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?products_id=228 . PORC is where I got my set from. Usability of PORC's website has gone down recently, navigation is the absolute suck with that dropdown thing, but if for some reason that link doesnt work, just type in "Re3792" in the Search field on the left column.

 

[Burns]

The master has spoken.....

Ah the reply time it cool...I know others are busy.

How many times have you rebuilt yours? I will be putting these on my dd so i dont want to have to be tearing into the front end every month

 

[IZwack]

How many times have you rebuilt yours? I will be putting these on my dd so i dont want to have to be tearing into the front end every month

I've rebuilt mine maybe twice.. but I didn't rebuild them because I had to rebuild them. But rather I rebuilt them because I'm pretty **** and whenever I remove the axle (for some other reason), I typically remove the links too (its just 2 more bolts after all for just the lower links) and also rebuild the SuperFlex joints.

But technically they dont need rebuilding because of the greasable zerk fittings. If anything, you might have to check on them maybe every half a year or so to see if the threaded plug thing that the tool attaches to has backed off. You can add a little thread lock on these to help prevent them from backing out. Also you can use a marker or something to put alignment marks on the shell and this threaded thing. If the marks dont align when you check 6 months later, then you know that it has backed off.

You wont be tearing into them every month, probably never. Its one of those "set it and forget it" things.

 

[IZwack]

I should mention that when you weld your link material (tube) to the shell, keep in mind that heat deforms metal, including the shell and its threads. So per PBB research, thread the threaded plug thing all the way into the shell before you weld, and then back it out after the whole thing has cooled back down to ambient/room temperature.

 

[Burns]

Good. That helps. Thanks


Now i just got to make a way to use on my radius arms with out cutting them.