Rear Brake Problems

[CDW6212R]

I do hope that is it, getting brakes back in shape can be tedious when they get a lot of miles on them.

 

[MaxTakeoff]

I'm about ready to give up!! I thought I had it but when I came out to the truck in the morning the brakes were binding quite hard but seemed fine after driving 50 yards to the end of the street. After 25 - 30 minutes of driving, if I don't brake for a while the brake pedal travel increases until it's almost on the floor - scarey!!
I tried reversing and braking lots of times but it didn't seem to help.

I have no clue what to do now. I'm going to look into the disc conversion but this is my daily driver so can't really have it out of commission too long - if possible.

Cheers, Stu

 

[CDW6212R]

I would be looking carefully at the brake fluid(bleed more through), and the master cylinder and inline components. That doesn't sound like a booster issue, but the fluid and control system. That being said if nothing else in the rear brakes is awry.

 

[MaxTakeoff]

Last night and this morning seemed a lot better, the pedal travel only started increasing a bit just before I got to work.

I was reading somewhere that the brake fluid can get hot and vaporize, I'm wondering if a shoe(s) was binding a bit hard and heating things up causing the increase in pedal travel - does it sound like a feasible theory?

I'll leave it until the weekend and see if it beds in.

The help is appreciated.

 

[BP_93explorer]

How easy should it be to spin the passenger rear tire by hand? I had it jacked up, in neutral and it takes quite a bit of effort. I'm dealing with a slight pull to the right that made my vehicle fail inspection.

Just took the drum off, slipped off with ease. Only the front shoe moves when the brake is applied.

 

[MaxTakeoff]

I thought that there was supposed to be a "light drag". I have noticed that mine seems to be grabbing the right rear when braking hard, I'm wondering whether the drum is warped or something - I bought it new a few weeks ago, doubt that I can return in now.

I wouldn't be surprised if only one shoe moved when the drum was off. I might be wrong but the pressure would push out the 'easiest' shoe to move. Inside the drum, as soon as that shoe came into contact with the drum, the other shoe would start moving. Once again, I'm not sure on that.

I wonder if I should swap the drums over?

 

[BP_93explorer]

Well I adjusted the right rear manually, put the tire back on and now it spins easier. I guess that was the problem. I drove around and slammed the brakes a few times and didn't feel the same pull that i was feeling.

Don't most drums come with at least a 3 month warranty? Couldn't hurt to try to return it. I don't know if they will send it somewhere to see if it messed up or not.

 

[CDW6212R]

Adjusting the brakes manually is the best method to get the clearance right. You can swap the drums left/right at any time if needed. Do that to see if the symptom changes.

Did you check carefully the brake cylinders? Look closely at the boot on each end, peel the boot back with a finder to look for any fluid. A very slight wetness is no problem, and dripping amount of fluid suggests a leaking cylinder.

The drums should spin easily by hand, with the slightest dragging by the linings. Meaning that when you do the brakes you should tighten the linings until they do drag a little. As they brake in, there will be no dragging after a few miles of driving. Regards,

 

[BP_93explorer]

After driving around I still have a pull to the right. Braking makes it pull more. I jacked it up again and noticed when I grab the back tire I can move it in and out. Enough to hear a thumping. Should the axle have play in it like that? I took the tire off and could pull it in and out. its less than a quarter inch of play.

 

[CDW6212R]

I'd call about 1/8" or so about normal, a 1/4" of play is getting large. Look for fluid leaks anywhere near the axle or brakes, With new brakes a pull should turn out to be internal to the system or fluid on part of the brakes. It's hard to say and not be duplicating what you have already done.

 

[BP_93explorer]

i decided to jack up the front and check out the job that the shop did on my front brakes. They replaced the calipers and brake hoses. I had my sister step on the brake and I didn't see the caliper (right front) move at all. I did however notice the brake line leaking at the connection of the old steal line and the new hose they just put on. Could that actually be why the brake is pulling right? I'm ready to turn this thing into a fish tank. I'm not taking it back to the same shop. It was already a warranty job on the calipers.

 

[CDW6212R]

Changing any of the rubber lines can be tricky, the special copper washers have to be very tight. For the frame connection they usually never leak, unless the fitting is damaged, not allowing it to be tightened enough. The proper flaring tool is very important, those fittings need to be perfect.

Sometimes they will leak even when you think that they are more than tight enough. It's best to inspect those washers very carefully before installing them. Use the very best fitting socket for them, and tighten them carefully but firmly.

For your truck you should attempt to use the proper flare nut wrench to tighten that connection. Take your time with it, worry most about the frame line and fitting, it's permanent.

 

[DeRocha]

I was wondering if you have found the problem? My '93 has many of the same symptoms. I can put it into reverse and backup with No issues. When I put it into drive I can start feeling the shoes drag and it just got worse..

For my issue it turned out to be a worn brake shoe stud which caused the shoes to engage the drums "out of true". I took some pics and can post later, but now I'm in the process of looking for an new axle backing plate..