rear driveshaft disconnected; front drive

[francis tibbetts]

Will be towing a 94 explorer 4WD touch drive Florida to Nova Scotia flat with the rear drive shaft removed. Has any one tried driving short distances (100 yards or so) with the front wheel drive only. This used to work fine with my old 81 Bronco with manual hubs. Will it work with automatic/touch-drive transfer case? Thanks for your input. F.T.

 

[HahnsB2]

I wouldn't recommend it with auto-hubs.

 

[patman]

wouldn't it be fine if rear drive shaft is disconnected and it's in two wheel drive? maybe? idk for sure though

 

[wood1]

Were you planning on just leaving the yoke on the output shaft to keep the fluid from running out the back? And, as long as your hubs are healthy it shouldn't be too bad to just gently move it around a bit. Mind you that's only my opinion, you could just as easily grenade a hub too.

 

[HahnsB2]

Were you planning on just leaving the yoke on the output shaft to keep the fluid from running out the back? And, as long as your hubs are healthy it shouldn't be too bad to just gently move it around a bit. Mind you that's only my opinion, you could just as easily grenade a hub too.

There is no slip yoke in the t-case...

The problem with using auto hubs is A: They're weak and B: There will be shock-loads when starting from a stop from the hubs suddenly engaging.

 

[gsmaclean]

I would manually lock the auto hubs first by hand (get under the truck, and rotate the front half-shafts forward until the hubs lock). Then shift it into 4x4, and very gently ease it forward from a stop. I wouldn't expect you would have a problem with a couple hundred yards as long as you aren't going up hills or anything.

 

[wood1]

There is no slip yoke in the t-case...

The problem with using auto hubs is A: They're weak and B: There will be shock-loads when starting from a stop from the hubs suddenly engaging.

ah crap, should have let brain engage before fingers...

sorry.

 

[Mickelsons]

I drove mine that way to the parts house and back when I had to get new u-joints for the back shaft and it drove just fine. 10 miles round trip. Just make sure the auto hubs have disengaged again before you start towing it.

 

[HahnsB2]

ah crap, should have let brain engage before fingers...

sorry.

Me too, I didn't realize it was only 100 yards, it will probably be fine.

 

[francis tibbetts]

Thank you,gentlemen for the input

 

[DeRocha]

I see no problems driving in 4x4 with the rear drive shaft disconnected (other than the possibility that an autohub fails leaving you in 4xZero).

 

[little x]

It'll work just fine. I drove 5 or 6 miles home that way once after throwing the rear drive shaft. As long as you don't have a front locker your good. If you do it's a PITA! You can only lock one wheel, and the truck dives from one side to the other and back again as you take your foot off the gas, change gears, and then go back onto the gas.

 

[francis tibbetts]

Thanks for additional input F.T.

 

[mikeinri]

Yes, I read that too quickly too. Thought he was driving (not towing) from FL to NS with just the front. That would take some brass ones...

But, it makes me wonder why that wouldn't be possible. The obvious complications (with front autohubs) are: Taking sharp corners on dry pavement, and going from forward to reverse and back will disengage the hubs. Other than that, it should work, shouldn't it?

Mike

 

[Mickelsons]

The sharp corner this really is not going to be a big issue since the rear drive line is disconnected the front end will work just like the rear end does in 2 wheel drive there should be no binding with and open front differential when the rear drive line is removed. Also, I don't think the hubs will engage and disengage when shifting from forward to reverse since it is still in 4 wheel drive the front drive line is turning and should hold the hubs in just like if you have to back up in 4 wheel drive you don't loose your 4 wheel drive. I know that I had no problem when I backed back into the drive way.

 

[DeRocha]

The sharp corner this really is not going to be a big issue since the rear drive line is disconnected the front end will work just like the rear end does in 2 wheel drive there should be no binding with and open front differential when the rear drive line is removed. Also, I don't think the hubs will engage and disengage when shifting from forward to reverse since it is still in 4 wheel drive the front drive line is turning and should hold the hubs in just like if you have to back up in 4 wheel drive you don't loose your 4 wheel drive. I know that I had no problem when I backed back into the drive way.

Correct.. Driving in 4x4 with the rear drive shaft removed will not cause any torque wind up issues (which would occur if the rear drive line was being powered).

When reversing directions autohubs will Unlock then Lock in the new direction.

From the 4x4 Troubleshooting Guide

More on Automatic HUB engagement:
When you engage 4x4 the front drive shaft will spin and send power to the diff and then to the axle shafts.. The axle shafts will begin rotating within each autohub; after a few revolutions the engagement cam will have idle up within the autohub and caused the autohub to lock. Once this occurs on both hubs the wheel with the least traction will get power and begin to rotate.

Let the above sink in for a minute.. If you try to free a vehicle by quickly going from Forward to reverse you can easily blow an auto hub.. When you reverse direction the axle shaft obviously spins in the opposite direction causing the auto hub to UNLOCK and then LOCK in the new direction.. Under low power this isn't a big deal, but if you're on the gas heavy it can definitely damage the hub... Manual hubs are either locked or open, as such they are unaffected by rocking a vehicle in the manor above.

 

[HahnsB2]

As long as you don't have a front locker your good. If you do it's a PITA! You can only lock one wheel, and the truck dives from one side to the other and back again as you take your foot off the gas, change gears, and then go back onto the gas.

I had to do it last week, it's FAR easier and safer to drive with both hubs locked, I couldn't keep it in my lane with only one locked.

 

[francis tibbetts]

Thanks for the additional input/comment. You've convinced me to try it. The ability to
unhook and move the vehicle in parking lots, should you need to reverse the motor home for some reason, is very usefull. (Recall one can't reverse the tow vehicle/motorhome in flat tow /follow steering situations). Also, am I correct in thinking that with automatic hubs with no power applied to the wheels, as soon as the Explorer
is pushed (or coasts) ahead the hubs disengage to freewheel? Thank you all...F.T.

 

[Mickelsons]

you should be fine as long as you put it back in 2 wheel drive before you start towing. that way the front drive live is disconnected from the transmission through the transfer case.

 

[DeRocha]

... Also, am I correct in thinking that with automatic hubs with no power applied to the wheels, as soon as the Explorer is pushed (or coasts) ahead the hubs disengage to freewheel? Thank you all...F.T.

No... Once hubs are locked then will only unlock if you reverse direction. Before flat towing your vehicle you should disengage 4x4 then drive backwards for 10' or so to unlock the hubs. You can then drive forward, hook the explorer to the tow vehicle and then remove the drive shaft.