Rear end failure question

[rgerber2]

I have an 02 Explorer that has the infamous rear end hum. I have already read the million posts on here about what it is and that the cause is to take it to the dealer and get bent over without lube for 1500+.

My question is has anyone fixed the problem on their own and could they possibly provide pics or some instruction. I have a haynes manual but it only tells how to remove the rear end carrier, not replace the gears or bearings.

Is it worth it to try and fix the issue myself or am I going to end up taking it to a dealer anyways. I would consider myself mechanically able however it is my only vehicle and would have to be tackled in a weekend...is this possible ?

 

[blue_goose]

Is it worth it to try and fix the issue myself or am I going to end up taking it to a dealer anyways. I would consider myself mechanically able however it is my only vehicle and would have to be tackled in a weekend...is this possible ?

i had the same question and decided to try it myself. Me and my dad tried it over thanksgiving weekend and it was a disaster. when we finally got the diff unbolted from the body(and it was a chore just to do that, we still had to take the drive axles out which ment taking the wheel asembly apart to get the difff off the truck) we found out you had to have a series of specialized tools including something to spread the diff apart, without going 1mm over or else you would crack it, to get the ring and pinion out and then getting the bearings out was even worse then that, cause of the tools needed, precision and other stuff. we went to the dealer and as soon as we said 02 explorer differential they told us not to waste our time. they said that it will go as long as you can bear the noise and just change the fluid but dont even mess with the bearings. they even said "Oh, we don't like working on those. we did one and never again. Thats the worst job I've ever done." and thats coming from a Ford dealer. So we wresled, beat and shoved the diff back in place, new fluid and let it go. it should be said that we didnt get it all the way off, just unbolted from the body and the fluid cover plate thing off and back on and that was 10 hours alone.
So my fix will be a limited slip or locking if I can find one cause its waaaay cheaper, and is actually something I can do. I too used a Haynes manual and it is vague. If you are serious about it then talk to the Ford dealer if they will tell you anything. Ours is a small town dealer in northern Mn so they are nice and helpful when the supervisors arn't around. The explorer rear diff is probally the worse Ford has ever made and nothing I have ever done has been more frusterating. We have done about everything on vehicles, including pulling and engine out of a chevy and rebuilding it.
Good luck.

 

[ericautopart]

I sell the kit you need w/ the updated axle seals/bearings for $155.00. I wouldn't bring it to the dealer or try it at home..I'd find a good trans shop that can do the work.

 

[rgerber2]

Simpler to remove and have rebuilt ?

That answered my question perfectly.

I also considered getting one from a junk yard or visiting a local pull apart and buying one under the assumption that its already bad or going bad and just taking it to a gear or tranny shop and having it rebuilt. This would certainly lower the cost as they would not have to remove or reinstall the diff.

What type of tool was required to remove the axles in case I do decide to attempt it ? I may reconsider this based on you response but am curious what the tool is called or if the special tools are only necessary if you rebuild the diff, in my case I would only be removing it.

Does anyone else have any good or bad experiences with this issue ?

 

[blue_goose]

no special tools required to remove it, the Haynes manual explains it good from what i remember. you just need lots of patience and another hand was good too, not sure I could do it by myself. I too thought about taking it off and taking it to the shop but by the time all is said and done it will be cheaper to get a new one all together so I would recommend going that route and will be doing the same myself when I get the courage to tackle it again. There was a post and stuff by a guy who actually rebuilt it himself and logged it all including pics. It is very useful, however he made it sound much easier then it actually is. i started the project based on his post and quickly realised that he made it out much easier then it actually is. If you search for a while you may find it, I cant remember what its called.

 

[xlt03]

Here in Northern California Ford dealer figures it to be $2600.00 to do the ring and pinion job. Wouldn't consider rebuilding it myself. Thought about getting a new differential and remove and replace and doing that myself (still debating this). I have done the rear bearing which is part way to R&R diff.

To get to the diff. you have to remove wheels, half shafts - which means removing brakes, popping rear link & upper control arm and moving knuckle out of way. Will need three specialized tools. 1. front hub removal tool, 2. half shaft separation tool, 3. axle seal protection tool. Also need new circ-clips, rear link nuts, upper control arm nuts and axle nuts.

Now you have access to the differential. You will also need to disconnect the driveshaft from transmission/transfer case.

If you have never replace your rear (hub) bearings, you may consider doing them now also since you have (80%) it all apart. It's a pain to do them but since you're here. I would also recommend that you not reuse speed sensor for ABS if differential does not come with one. Part is relatively cheap (get OEM not Advance/Autozone etc.) and you have easy access to install (out of vehicle) on new diff.

These 3 items, ABS light concerns, rear hub/bearing and noisy/whining rear end are endless topics on this forum. So if you really plan to replace differential I would consider doing all 3 at the same time to save yourself future headaches and time.

If you do this - take and post pics.

 

[gforceman]

if rear has been humming for a while does that meant the gears should be replaced as well , or can they be reused

 

[jakedrew]

when i had a issue with the limited slip in the rear end at 35k miles the shop said they had a heck of time getting the axles out and i ended up getting new ones.

then at 55k miles i got the rear end hum. got it fixed under extended warrenty. at a different shop. (original shop moved)

had i not had a warrenty, it would have been 1100$ at the ford shop. (central wisconsin)


good luck non the less!

 

[EasyRhino]

Here in Northern California Ford dealer figures it to be $2600.00 to do the ring and pinion job. Wouldn't consider rebuilding it myself. Thought about getting a new differential and remove and replace and doing that myself (still debating this). I have done the rear bearing which is part way to R&R diff.

To get to the diff. you have to remove wheels, half shafts - which means removing brakes, popping rear link & upper control arm and moving knuckle out of way. Will need three specialized tools. 1. front hub removal tool, 2. half shaft separation tool, 3. axle seal protection tool. Also need new circ-clips, rear link nuts, upper control arm nuts and axle nuts.

Now you have access to the differential. You will also need to disconnect the driveshaft from transmission/transfer case.

If you have never replace your rear (hub) bearings, you may consider doing them now also since you have (80%) it all apart. It's a pain to do them but since you're here. I would also recommend that you not reuse speed sensor for ABS if differential does not come with one. Part is relatively cheap (get OEM not Advance/Autozone etc.) and you have easy access to install (out of vehicle) on new diff.

These 3 items, ABS light concerns, rear hub/bearing and noisy/whining rear end are endless topics on this forum. So if you really plan to replace differential I would consider doing all 3 at the same time to save yourself future headaches and time.

If you do this - take and post pics.

As I have posted previously on this site, mine has been whining since new, 102K miles and 7.5 years ago.

If I continue to keep it, I would look at doing a rear end rebuild, including:

1 - replace rear wheel bearings.
2 - replace rear suspension ball joints and bushings, plus shocks, struts, and maybe even springs (not broken, but why do this job twice).
3 - remove differential and take to tranny shop for rebuild with new ring gear and pinion and clutch packs for the limited slip, and new seals.
4 - replace brake pads and rotors, and emergency brakes.
5 - probably replace all u joints and probably the half-shafts, too.

Anything else deserve replacing while up in there? I would only do this once, tehn try to go to 200K miles.

 

[blue_goose]

Here in Northern California Ford dealer figures it to be $2600.00 to do the ring and pinion job. Wouldn't consider rebuilding it myself. Thought about getting a new differential and remove and replace and doing that myself (still debating this). I have done the rear bearing which is part way to R&R diff.

To get to the diff. you have to remove wheels, half shafts - which means removing brakes, popping rear link & upper control arm and moving knuckle out of way. Will need three specialized tools. 1. front hub removal tool, 2. half shaft separation tool, 3. axle seal protection tool. Also need new circ-clips, rear link nuts, upper control arm nuts and axle nuts.

Now you have access to the differential. You will also need to disconnect the driveshaft from transmission/transfer case.

If you have never replace your rear (hub) bearings, you may consider doing them now also since you have (80%) it all apart. It's a pain to do them but since you're here. I would also recommend that you not reuse speed sensor for ABS if differential does not come with one. Part is relatively cheap (get OEM not Advance/Autozone etc.) and you have easy access to install (out of vehicle) on new diff.

These 3 items, ABS light concerns, rear hub/bearing and noisy/whining rear end are endless topics on this forum. So if you really plan to replace differential I would consider doing all 3 at the same time to save yourself future headaches and time.

If you do this - take and post pics.

I wasn't aware of the special tools cause we have done many half shafts and i dont remember using them but i may have just forgotten.

This post is an excellent example of why I almost scrapped my 02 in favor of a 93. put too much money into the 02 already to do that though.

This is also why i said forget the diff, its not worth the hassle. I change the fluid twice a year and seems to be ok for now. yea i know it will eventually fail but unti I get more patience this works ok for me.

 

[xlt03]

Just a FYI for 03 Explorer rear differential. Complete assembly has been discontinued, so option now is to rebuild your own. Ford has updated ring and pinion that has new angle cuts on the gears to address the whine. Have a differential shop do the job. I got estimate for $950.00 for ring and pinion job.

 

[blue_goose]

Just a FYI for 03 Explorer rear differential. Complete assembly has been discontinued, so option now is to rebuild your own. Ford has updated ring and pinion that has new angle cuts on the gears to address the whine. Have a differential shop do the job. I got estimate for $950.00 for ring and pinion job.

so a couple dumb questions related to this- does anyone else make diffs for this gen explorers?
and will I still be able to get a new diff at all?
Seeing that I have found diffs for $400-600 new a rebuild makes no sense to me.
one last dumb question- will all 2002-2005 diffs work for that generation? I know there are subtle differences but not sure if it would change whether they would be interchangeable or not.

 

[gforceman]

will the 08 - 09 diffs work and fit the 03 explorers ?

 

[rgerber2]

@ blue_goose:

Where did you find a complete new differential for 400-600 ?
I have only found used ones in junkyards. I have seen rebuild kits but I havent found a completely new differential.

 

[ericautopart]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2299444#post2299444

I'm having a sale on them now..

 

[explorer 4 life]

i am new here and have an 02 XLT with towing package, we started having rear end noise at 80k and started getting stuck locked at 120k we put a wynns lubricant in the rear end and it helped but it still draggs when turning. im sure its going out as it now has 134k on it. my question is what happens when it goes out driving down the highway. ?!?!?

 

[ericautopart]

i am new here and have an 02 XLT with towing package, we started having rear end noise at 80k and started getting stuck locked at 120k we put a wynns lubricant in the rear end and it helped but it still draggs when turning. im sure its going out as it now has 134k on it. my question is what happens when it goes out driving down the highway. ?!?!?

Depends on what issue your having. If it's a bearing it'll start to saw away at whatever parts it's on. If the gears go you'll like hear a loud bang and the truck will feel like it's in neutral, spiders gears you'll probably hear grinding , etc.

 

[blue_goose]

@ blue_goose:

Where did you find a complete new differential for 400-600 ?
I have only found used ones in junkyards. I have seen rebuild kits but I havent found a completely new differential.

I believe it was a little bit ago at either rockauto.com or direct fore parts (their name may have changed, i dont remember)

this was about a year ago so not sure if they still have it or not.

 

[explorer 4 life]

its like more of a wining noise.. im not sure whats going bad.. but the limited slip clutch packs are getting stuck.. im just worried about what will happen if im going 80mph down the interstate and it goes out whats going to happen ... i dont wanna wreck and die

 

[xlt03]

Just an update on the rear end. Whining is about the same but started to hear growling in differential. Know it's not hub bearings (roar noise) as they were replaced 2 months ago and differential noise still there. Took it to differential shop. They took it apart and found the inner race of the pinion gear was badly pitted and the bearing slid up and down on the pinion shaft.. Same pitting on the inner race for the half shaft bearings. So all new bearings and new ring and pinion set. Rebuilt the LS also since unit is off vehicle.