Rear half shaft on an 02

[Opera House]

Well, I'm back again. Just drove home from the auction with my 02 XLT and was hearing this chunk chunk chunk from the back when I took my foot off the gas. Got home and the rear passenger side boot is slit. Haven't jacked it up yet, but it looks like I need a half shaft at least. This only has 90K on it which seems pretty early, my 97 has over 200k with no problems with front shafts. Any secret to these I should know about and is this typical?

 

[Glacier991]

Opera House! Nice to see you buddy.

Others may be more knowledgeable... but my most recent experience with a cardan joint was with a VW bus, and it was EXACTLY like you describe. Replacement was pretty easy all in all. Be curious to know how yours goes.

PS... you newbies not knowing who Opera House is, he is one this boards best tranny diagnosticians. Been a while since we've seen him.

 

[Opera House]

I thought this might be a problem with the vehicle this new. Autozone and Rockauto don't have the part, going to have to pay Ford prices. I was always amazed at front half shaft prices being so cheap. That's what happens when you only take 35 seconds to think about buying a vehicle, figured I might have paid too much ($6,300). Nice looking with the moon roof and all those extras. Swore I would never buy a SOHC. How can anyone sleep at nigh after reading all the problems this generation has.... timing chains, transmissions, rear seals, whining differentials. Well, every one has to have some hobby. Sure this will be a chance to write some articles.

 

[Opera House]

I've got the half shaft ready to pull out. Time to develop a strategy for a pull and protection of the seal from the splines. Freeing the shaft wasn't that hard after removing the brakes. Removing the cable support for the emergency brake gives enough room so you don't have to remove the cable. Upper A arm and stabilizer tie rod were removed at the ball joint. Force required was not large enough to do damage to these items. The large axle nut isn't that hard to get off. Same force that I used on the front bearings of my 97, I used a plumbers sheet metal socket wrench because I didn't have a suitable socket. Support the vehicle and allow the lower A arm to drop slightly. The brake/bearing assembly will fold down allowing the shaft to pull out of the wheel bearing. I have heard reports that replacing the differential shaft seal costs $300, that is a deal if they are talking about the half shaft seal. The wheel bearing is extremely stiff and can not be turned by hand. Looks like the bearing got hot, damaged the rubber boot and now I have to replace the shaft too. Friend said his father in law who works at a dealership would get me the shaft at cost. More to follow.

Those who have followed my other threads know I take an unconventional approach to things. I slipped the old boot back and picked out the rubber bits that made it feel a little funky. Washed out the CV with the handy mans helper, used tranny fluid. Balls look good and so do the grooves, the unit doesn't have any play. I'm going to look for one of those universal glue on boots and just replace the wheel bearing. The bearing with no shaft takes two hands to turn it and it coggs now and then.

 

[IZwack]

Its nice to see that the legend is back